Gen 2 shock spring

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Hi all, my 2006 FZ1 have a very hard shock spring it’s silver in colour and I think they put a softer one in 2007 on ?
Does the colour denote the spring weight?
Is a R1 shock a direct swap?
Needing some advice here guys pls help out !!
 
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Hi all, my 2006 FZ1 have a very hard shock spring it’s silver in colour and I think they put a softer one in 2007 on ?
Does the colour denote the spring weight?
Is a R1 shock a direct swap?
Needing some advice here guys pls help out !!
I have done the R1 front and rear shock swap. I googled and found a few articles and videos outlining the process. If you want to swap the rear shock with an R1 shock, most go for the 2015+ shock. It requires a little modification (remove 2-3mm from both sides top bushings) and then you need to pull the rectifier bracket out and turn it upside down. Mount the rectifier on the top of the plate and you are done.
 

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Was thinking of an 04-06 R1 shock using the Satan's adaptor.
I didn't know the 2015+ would fit with one small mod at the top as you mentioned.
Is that all that is required to do ?
If it is it must be a better option then what I was thinking about
 
Was thinking of an 04-06 R1 shock using the Satan's adaptor.
I didn't know the 2015+ would fit with one small mod at the top as you mentioned.
Is that all that is required to do ?
If it is it must be a better option then what I was thinking about

2015+ requires the top bushing mod and flipping the rectifier bracket and remounting the rectifier. Not hard at all. There are articles and some vids showing how to do it. Go with the option that best fits your wants and needs.
 
2015+ requires the top bushing mod and flipping the rectifier bracket and remounting the rectifier. Not hard at all. There are articles and some vids showing how to do it. Go with the option that best fits your wants and needs.

Many thanks ! I have been very close to ordering a 04-06 serviced R1 shock with adaptor from USA delivered to Sydney for AUD$360. Not bad really.
However, I will get a decent 2015+ R1 cheaper than that more than likely. I'm doing a ring around in the morning.

I can get really cheap! plus will have it much faster :O)
 
I have done the R1 front and rear shock swap. I googled and found a few articles and videos outlining the process. If you want to swap the rear shock with an R1 shock, most go for the 2015+ shock. It requires a little modification (remove 2-3mm from both sides top bushings) and then you need to pull the rectifier bracket out and turn it upside down. Mount the rectifier on the top of the plate and you are done.
Also R1 shock is 315mm..FZ1 is 320 mm so you can adjust out R1 shock to same length as FZ1.
I've this done..

Anyone know if you leave R1 shock at 315mm will it be ok and it'll just lower ride height by maybe 1cm??
 
Follow up:
Are the Chinese sent threaded hex adj lowering links safe???
I recently put an 04-06 R1 shock and adaptor in my 06 and on centre stand rear tyre was touching ground and it is turning in way too easily for my liking, so I installed the adj lowering link and set it to 224mm from stock 216mm. This is the maximum allowable to avoid bottom of shock hitting the link. This has lowered the rear considerably so I raised the forks 5mm. Not test ridden yet as poor weather but I’m optimistic about a good riding result.
So, are these adj links safe? Has anyone had or heard of any failing?
Any advice very welcome!!
 
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Newish 190/55 tyre with about 35mm clearance to ground on centre stand.
 

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Next question is why are you lowering the rear of the bike so much? Short legs? Cannot flat foot? You asked about getting an R1 shock above. We gave you suggestions. You then asked if certain lowering links were safe? I have not used lowering links. You can adjust height using the shock itself quite a bit. Just wondering thanks.
 
Next question is why are you lowering the rear of the bike so much? Short legs? Cannot flat foot? You asked about getting an R1 shock above. We gave you suggestions. You then asked if certain lowering links were safe? I have not used lowering links. You can adjust height using the shock itself quite a bit. Just wondering thanks.
The 04-08 R1 shocks aren’t height adjustable. I’m 6ft and wanted to lower the bike for lower cog and I have since adjusted the dogbone to leave about 15mm rear tyre to ground over 35mm as per pics above. Using the stock dogbone with this shock and adaptor raised the rear enough that on centre stand rear tyre is touching the ground, not good.
I should have gone for 2015> R1 shock but purchased 04-08 one plus adaptor unaware how much the rear would be raised.
So now rear tyre an acceptable 15mm off ground I have put forks back in std position.
I feel a bit unsure safety wise of the al adj dogbone from China but putting the stock one back is raising things too much for my liking. Back to the drawing board for now…
 
ahh yes! I forgot you opted for the 04-08 shock and now i understand your position. Easiest fix IMO is to sell that shock, recoup, and purchase the 2015+ shock. Trim the top bushings and pop it in. Done and done. :]
 
I was thinking more about how they deskt eith the RR...

Swapping the shock was easy. Finding the right way to modify the RR bracket snd mounting RR was a little bit of a pain.
 
LOL! The video shown uses an adapter design (my Version 3) that I developed in 2007 and superseded in 2009 with V4.23. It uses a 2004-2008 R1 shock, not the 2015. Not mentioned in the video, it requires displacement or removal of the EXUP motor and angles the shock ~7 degrees more vertical which changes the effective spring rate. It did however place the nitrogen reservoir to front to eliminate clearance issues (see photo below).

The Post #2 photos do not show the repositioning of the voltage regulator with the stock bracket 'turned upside down'. In reality, the bracket cannot be installed 'upside down' without modification. The bracket supports the plastic battery compartment. Remove the support and the plastic will be stressed from vertical vibration. Also, the rear brake reservoir attaches to the bracket. The mounting flange will now be on the other side. Ty-wraps anyone?

In an effort to combat ignorance, first look into the overall process and goals of swapping the stock GEN II shock. Overall, the first consideration is the strength of the spring to accommodate the riding load.
  1. The original GEN II (2006) was designed for typical riders in 220#+ range with moderate passenger accommodation. The steel stamped shock was used to reduce cost given the R1 frame template and use of a redesigned swing arm and linkage. The spring rate was 685 lbs/in.
  2. Yamaha engineers quickly realized that the spring rate was too strong for the target market which was typically less than 200#s with little passenger riding. The 2007 thru 2015 rate was set at 587 lbs/in which is still quite strong for a 200# rider but accommodates a passenger.
  3. Load effectively increases when the motorcycle is driven into a turn at high speeds. Track use requires a stronger spring.
  4. Preload adjustment is not a substitute for proper spring rate or linkage based height setting.
Second, the damping action of the shock absorber is related to the load and proper spring rate.
  1. Compression damping is related to the amount of movement (height of bump or hole drop) and speed. It primarily serves to limit the amount of upward momentum applied to the frame.
  2. Rebound damping relates to reducing oscillation (pogo stick) when the spring returns from the compression phase.
  3. See #3 above.
  4. The 'inexpensive' GEN II OEM shock does not have adjustment for compression dampening.
  5. All shock action force relates to the particular load which is being compressed. The shock is designed for the particular weight of the motorcycle and load.
So, any replacement of the stock GEN II shock must first consider use of the right spring and second, a similar weight motorcycle. The R1 spring and shock combo is a good starting point as the GEN II, when stripped of some accoutrements, is relatively close. The proper spring force will allow preload adjustment (approximately 20% of overall travel) for standard ride height and sufficient travel to minimize bottoming to extreme conditions. It should be noted that there are other suspension issues i.e.: ride height, steering head angle, trail, etc. which will be touched upon later.

ANY MODIFICATION TO ANY ENGINEERED PRODUCT MAY CHANGE ASPECTS OF PERFORMANCE, SAFETY AND/OR RELIABILITY. STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES.

The end goal of swapping shocks on the GEN II is to affect ride quality and performance. Also, for most sentient beings, there is consideration of value: gain vs. cost and simplicity. On the high end of that spectrum, an Ohlins shock designed for the GEN II is likely the best alternative. Springs can be ordered for the particular rider's weight and riding style. Production quality is extremely high with adjustments and fit. However, not all people are willing to spend approximately 20% of the overall worth of the machine for a rear shock.

When I purchased a new 2007, my butt told me that it did not like the tar strips on the PCH. Cornering feedback on tight turns was tentative. What was the best alternative? Good used R1 shocks were plentiful at a low price point. The R1 shock was the next level of performance and quality from the OEM GEN II. Since both motorcycles shared many parts, why not?

The '04-'08 R1 shocks share the same connection template: bolt diameter and bushing width. The shock series has a significant number of spring weight alternatives (stock '04-'06 good to 180#, '07-'08 to 220#s, accessory to 260#+). However, the eye-to-eye length is shorter than the GEN II. An adapter would be required as shortening the dogbone to recover lost ride height would affect the constant ratio of compression force severely. Also, consideration of the placement of the nitrogen reservoir (the OEM shock has none) in regards to the under-slung voltage regulator was required.

My first design efforts used the R1 shock along with the upper R1 mounting clevis (see photo below). The clevis is required on the R1 because of a different frame mounting design and could potentially serve to provide a ride-height adjustment on the GEN II. I ended up with an adapter (3rd generation) which moved the upper eye downwards and rearwards, with the reservoir to the front clearing it from the voltage regulator. Unfortunately, the exposed stud and bolt from the clevis interfered with the EXUP motor. Luckily, Yamaha had provided an opposite side mounting hole on the motor and only wrenching and a little cutting of the tank mount was needed to provide clearance. However, the adapter changed the angle of the shock in relation to the linkage swing and effectively increased the spring rate. Neither issue was a drop dead, but a better design could reduce installation to a simple 'bolt-in'.

After many drawings I came up with adapter Version 4.23. This placed the upper shock eye in a direct line with the frame flanges and cured both the spring rate issue and need to modify the EXUP position. Tried it on the GEN II with both the '04-'06 and '07-'08 series shocks (different springs). It was a winner. To this day it is the least expensive no-mod, bolt-in GEN II shock swap/upgrade alternative.

I explored adapter design using the '09-'14 series R1 shocks. The eye-to-eye length is shorter and reservoir placement higher than the earlier series. Furthermore, the spring rate significantly stronger (to heavy for anything but constant passenger riding). It was not worth the design effort.

I was enthusiastic when the 2015 R1 spring hit the streets. It appeared to be a good alternative with a spring rate in-between the '04-'06 and '07-'08 series (see chart below) and has a bit longer travel. Given that only the upper eye bushings were a mounting problem, I set about making it fit. I even trimmed the lower rod threaded area to allow lowering the GEN II rear. I could not find a good (inexpensive) and competent means to modify the voltage regulator tray to fit the nitrogen reservoir, voltage regulator and maintain the other functionality (supporting the battery and mounting the brake reservoir) without significant modification. Fabricating a different tray was not economically feasible for a saleable product. It should be noted that the wiring harness for the GEN II does not allow a lot of voltage regulator repositioning and reducing the exposure of the cooling fins to airflow may reduce reliability and longevity. While I could do a Version 3 type adapter with a modified clevis to put the reservoir forward, it was going to be a tight fit requiring more upward adjustment to the lower eye (possible). Not worth the hassle to do it right.

A short observation on the use of the V4.23 adapter. With a proper spring and preload setting, it raises the rear of the GEN II approximately 19mm or 3/4". This is within the range of kickstand and rock-stand use with a 190/50 tire. Go with a bigger rear tire and spacing plates will be needed.

The raising of the rear effective changes the angle of the steering head by ~1/2 degree. This causes the bike to lessen turn-in effort (a good thing IMHO) and increases the risk of handlebar oscillation at high (120mph+) speeds, not a good thing. The GEN II stock is 25 degrees of angle. The R1 is 24. The R1 comes with a steering damper. Tank slap is dependent on many factors including tire condition and inflation, rider position, etc. I suggest that you consider this issue when using the adapter.

The use of R1 ('04-'06) lowering dogbones (see photo - cut-out provides lower eye clearance) can reduce the ride height to stock or lower it further. I use R1 front forks which are shorter than the OEM GEN II and like the lowered center of gravity and flat foot on the ground (I have a short inseam) when stopped. Also, I ride with a 180/55 tire on an R6 wheel (GEN I spec). However, I fabricated an adjustable kickstand and jettisoned the rock-stand.

So, in conclusion, use of the 2015 and later R1 shock is not as simple as it sounds. Better to buy an FZ-MT 10 which comes OEM with a comparable unit.

Early Version 3 adapter.

Version 3 Adapter.jpg

Shock upper-eye to reservoir and eye-to-eye length comparison: 2015-2008-2009.

Shock Compare.jpg

Spring Rate Comparison

R1 Spring 04-15 Comparison.jpg

Rear height reducing dogbone.

lower link cycleoneof.jpg
 
Thank you for this post as it answered the questions I had regarding shock length, spring rate, and steering head angle…

I bit the bullet and bought a Nitron rear shock. I also have a 2012 R1 front end that I will be installing if I ever find the time…
 
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