Jakobs
Member
It's unbelievable that all this hassle and headache and just lubing a cable take all this symptoms away 
02 FZ1 clutch seemed to get stiffer over time, especially after it sat for a few weeks not being rode.
- Thread starter Steve127920
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Steve127920
Member
It threw me for a loop through the other avenues since I replaced the cable while having a harder pull, I think when I let it sit a few weeks maybe enough rain went through to wash out any lube, which then made it strongman pull, then I didn't think to look at the cable again since it was fairly new.It's unbelievable that all this hassle and headache and just lubing a cable take all this symptoms away
Klurejr
Wizard
What kind of lube did you use for the Clutch Cable? My bike gets parked in the garage every night, but I have ridden in the rain on occasion, I wonder if my pull is harder than it needs to be.
Doc Samson
Well-Known Member
When I bought mine, I noticed that the effort needed to pull the clutch in was close to "Ridiculous" levels. Found out that the plastic casing is VERY particular and, after messing around with handlebar position, found the sweet spot. Makes it dang tough to lube the cable... assuming it is supposed to be lubed...
Jakobs
Member
It is a good idea to get yourself motorcycle cover if bike is living outside.
My clutch was fine till I started to reading this topic.
I think it's time to lube some cables
Steve127920
Member
This time I used WD-40 because my dad had it sitting around, I usually use the clear silicone lube spray. That said it's been a lil while and it's still smooth compared to before, could probably use a tiny bit of touch up lube in there though.
Mine sits outside most of the time, even winter - poor thing. I've been staying with my parents' for awhile, so at least I've been throwing them (Fazer & Virago 750) in their garage now when I know it's going to rain.
Steve127920
Member
It is a good idea to get yourself motorcycle cover if bike is living outside.
My clutch was fine till I started to reading this topic.
I think it's time to lube some cables
Yeah probably, and I need to remember to replace my oil cap, the finger ridge handle broke when I hit the second deer & it slid on the ground again. It took off enough material on the top it lets trace amounts of water in through the threads!
Steve127920
Member
I undid the lower fastener nuts + the lil tab (don't forget to redo it after, it wasn't bent down when I bought mine and it slipped out coming up to a stop sign, I killed the engine with the brakes) near the cover and from the lever, spray in and work it by hand.
Klurejr
Wizard
WD-40 is not a Lube, it is a Water Dispersant, so it is good for cleaning out any moisture, but it will dry up and stop providing lubrication. Better off with an oil of some sort.
Steve127920
Member
I'll probably shoot some chain wax in there, I bet it'd do great.
Speaking of oil, how sensitive are our pressure lights? Mine will come on if I'm low on oil, but it also seems to come on when it's cold easier. Sometimes it will go away after the oil warms up. I think I consume a lil bit of oil, or maybe leak it but I haven't seen any spots yet!
Speaking of oil, how sensitive are our pressure lights? Mine will come on if I'm low on oil, but it also seems to come on when it's cold easier. Sometimes it will go away after the oil warms up. I think I consume a lil bit of oil, or maybe leak it but I haven't seen any spots yet!
Doc Samson
Well-Known Member
The only time mine has come on is when I did an oil change, miscalculated how much I had refilled, and realized I was a quart low...
I wouldn't shoot chain wax into a cable. I'm sure that will gum up in the cable. If you don't have cable lube, something like 3 in 1 oil would work fine.
The Gen I oil light is an oil level light, and is pretty sensitive to any level below full. When changing the oil, you want to take your time, it takes hours for the oil to truly settle down to give you the true, final reading, but when you get it, it wants to be at the full mark on the site glass.
The Gen I oil light is an oil level light, and is pretty sensitive to any level below full. When changing the oil, you want to take your time, it takes hours for the oil to truly settle down to give you the true, final reading, but when you get it, it wants to be at the full mark on the site glass.
Steve127920
Member
I didn't add any as a test and didn't get a light riding yesterday (light came on two days ago taking it easy through town while cold & chilly outside, went off after it got to temp), bout 80 miles. That said I will be adding before next time. Maybe when it's cold the oil is less viscous and more stays up high longer enough to set off the switch. I'll usually fill it right to the top notch or to the top of the sight glass since I know I lose some over time.
I think it would do well unless dust/dirt got mixed in it then I think it would gum up well. Probably gonna get and use the silicone lube again, although it seems like evaporates quickly and doesn't seem to leave much of anything. If it actually lubes but doesn't leave much residue I think that would be great for not collecting particles.