2010 FZ1-N ABS refuses to start after checking valve clearance. I'm stumped.

Hello guys,

I'm gonna try to keep it short and easy to read since I am not a native speaker. Also, please do not mind if I struggle to use the proper "names of things" because I am really not used to talk "mechanic" in another language.

Bike has now 44 000 Kilometers , or 27 000 miles if you wish, on the dash. Decided it was due to check the valve clearance, even if at least 8 mecanics (both independents and Yamaha officials) told me to "not bother".
I don't like hearing that, I don't like "not knowing" so I found someone near me who is knowledgeable (he is, but I'm starting to doubt he knew enough about this bike in particular) and we did the valve clearance check. Well, he mainly did, I was just there to assist and do the little things.

Values were fine, a bit close to the limit on some cylinders, but still inside the specs.

We reassemble everything, struggling like MAD to put back the accelerator cables (really, spent like 2 hours on this, was a nightmare).

She did not start. She was doing the symptoms you will see below in my videos. We thought it was the battery, which was old and already crapped on me a couple times. But even with a brand new lithium battery from my friend, she didn't fire up.

After a while, my mate went at the "front" of the engine, around the plugs and kinda "moved things around", verified nothing was kinked or spark plugs not seated or whatever. And it worked after a couple more tries insisting.

It purred fine, like, perfectly clean, nothing weird. Rode for an hour back home, even stopping for a few minutes at some point and starting it again without ANY problem.

Then she stayed for a week in the garage, and then when I tried starting it again, she did what you'll see and hear in the videos below. The same symptoms.
You can hear the "bonk" she does when the dash goes black. You can also hear it "stuttering", like she was just about to start doing the little "brop brop" from the exhaust. Also when I insist for a while, at some point she does a very loud BANG from the exhaust.



My friend told me to change battery, which I did, and also told me "turn the key on and off a few times" to initiate the fuel pump. That's why you see me doing it in the videos.
In the videos the battery is brand new and seem to give more than enough juice.

Do anyone here have ANY idea what could be wrong ? I'm at a loss here. My friend also told me that if the battery swap didn't work, I should bring it to Yamaha to have them "put the engine back to "point zero" and re synchronize" told me he can't do it cause it requires an external petrol tank while having the tank removed and the Yamaha computer hooked to the bike". (real hard to translate, sorry, hope you understand what I mean)

Is this bogus or could he be right. I'm starting to doubt him seriously seeing where trusting him landed me... :(
 
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The plot thickens !

I managed to push start it down a hill next to my home. It started fined in 2nd gear at around 25 Kmh / 15 mph. I stopped and tried to start another couple times, to no avail. I had to push start it the three times I tried.

Once it starts, it runs without any problem, I rode for a little while and it was all fine.


Except the very last try in front of my garage, as you can see on this video, when insisting she finally starts... I'm lost, lol.


After that, I tried a couple times inside the garage, she never fired up again.

Does this look like a spark plugs problem ? The Yamaha dealer I saw this morning to take an appointment did not have a clue and I have to leave it to them for "at least a morning" (fucking pigs wanna bleed me in worked hours, lol)

Does this weird stuff speaks to someone ?
 
Sorry no help, but I understood your explanation quite well, impressive description with English not being your native language.

In trouble shooting at work - we usually reverse the last thing we did before the problems occurred - as in undo what was recently changed and see if that works.

Good luck, looking forward to the more helpful responses.
 
Sorry no help, but I understood your explanation quite well, impressive description with English not being your native language.

In trouble shooting at work - we usually reverse the last thing we did before the problems occurred - as in undo what was recently changed and see if that works.

Good luck, looking forward to the more helpful responses.


Problem is, I am not the guy who did most of the work. I know the basics, but opening the engine to check the valve clearance was too much for me alone. The friend who worked lives kinda far and is pretty busy. I don't wanna pester him for another afternoon. He helped for a day already and sweat quite a bit on some parts of the job.

I am in no capacity to reverse anything, lol.

I tried to lift the tank and see if something looked out of place, with my "noob" eyes. Did not see anything, tried to gently yank on the "tubing" (forgot the word in english for "durite", lol) here and there, hoping that if it was a kink somewhere, it would sort it out. To no avail. :(


I'd be open to the idea of checking the spark plugs, but since we reassembled everything, the radiator is in the way. Dunno if I can move it out of the way without removing it completely. But that would be a shame cause the coolant is new.

What a frustrating experience.
 
To the yami dealer for sure.
Recipe needed to run= Fuel & air induction, compression, ignition, combustion, exhaust .

My best guess would be lack of fuel, it is turning over hard and will run once started.
But since the valve clearance was messed with it may be compression related.

It's funny how push & pull starting machines will get them going sometimes when the starter wont.
I've done the push pull to many a dirt bike and fourwheeler in the past.
 
Was the valve timing touched in any way? CCT loosened or removed? You may be off a tooth on one or both of your cam sprockets.

Another thing to check is #3 and #4 coil wires, they can be installed backwards the wires will fit. Don't ask me how I know LOL
 
Was the valve timing touched in any way? CCT loosened or removed? You may be off a tooth on one or both of your cam sprockets.

Another thing to check is #3 and #4 coil wires, they can be installed backwards the wires will fit. Don't ask me how I know LOL


Hi, no we did not "touch" anything. I was with him the whole time, watching over his hands while he was showing me how its done. We just checked the clearance, nothing less nothing more. However, we struggled a bit to "realign" the "T" marker on the ... chain "gear thingy", on the right side of the bike, that you have to crank manually with a tool.
You turn it several times to check the valves, but then you have to put it back at the right "marker" but I think he overshot it by a little itty bitty much. Like literally less than a centimeter and he cranked "the other way" to get it right rather than spending a few minutes turning it in the wrong direction. He told me it was no biggy because it was such a small distance.

I tend to believe it seeing how fine the bike runs once I push start it.

However, you might be on to something about the coil wires. I wonder if it could be that. Seeing that when we managed to get it started at his place was right after he touched "things" around one or several coils. But then, it would make no sense that after a week in my garage it's not working / starting anymore.

Also, how could I check the coils now that we have put everything back on. Do I have to get the radiator out ? It's not "that"' big of a deal, but still a bit of a pain in the ass, having to buy coolant again etc..
Or there's a way to check the coils without removing it ?
 
Just in case it could help someone in the future, here what the Yamaha dealer mechanics had to say about it.
Dropped the bike to them last week because at some point I gotta cut my loses and bring it to a real professional.

For them, it was clear the cam chain was misaligned. I spoke for a while with the guy working on the bike and to him, the most logical explanation is that we fucked something up when putting things back up.
He was a bit surprised since we did not disassemble the camshaft or anything.

I recall fiddling with a kind of "plastic pad" that was sliding out of its place. The pad right around the area where you crank the engine manually to go from 1 cylinder to the next for the measures.
For him, since we did not "loosen" / disassembled the cam chain tensioner while doing so, the chain could have ripped when I did that and "skip" one "tooth".

Apparently it OK but if it ripped more it could have cause real problems. He is confident it's gonna be fine once he reassemble and realign everything.
He will still check the compressions though, just in case (his words, no idea how important it is, but it's not gonna add to the bill so... yeah, do it)


So yeah, gonna get hammered by their hourly rates, but I guess I had it coming doing this kind of job with someone who never did it on that bike before. :(
Ho well, live and learn. I trusted this dude a bit too much, lol.
 
Glad to hear you got it worked out. Did y’all try running it after he put things back in place?
I’m pretty confident in your compression test coming out ok.

I too like to wrench on stuff, it’s good to know your limits- I have yet to try and check valve adjustment on anythingI’ve owned- that’s where I let the pros earn a living.
(I have done so on Uncle Sams equipment 30 years ago, but if I got that wrong the only penalty was getting yelled at).
 
Glad to hear you got it worked out. Did y’all try running it after he put things back in place?
I’m pretty confident in your compression test coming out ok.

I too like to wrench on stuff, it’s good to know your limits- I have yet to try and check valve adjustment on anythingI’ve owned- that’s where I let the pros earn a living.
(I have done so on Uncle Sams equipment 30 years ago, but if I got that wrong the only penalty was getting yelled at).


Not yet, bike was still very a work in progress, but they were confident it will be OK.
We'll see.

And also, I realized I was in over my head, that's why I looked for someone experimented that was willing to help on a saturday for a couple bucks. I had many offers from friends of friends, guess I picked the wrong horse, lmao. Dude was cool, and did all kind of stuff on all kind of bikes, but not on this model.

Should have gone with the retired pro mechanic that offered his services, but I was "cheap" and thought it would be too close to an actual shop lol.

the "good" thing is, even after the Yamaha dealer intervention, I'll still be on the lower end of what a shop would charge for a valve clearance job.
 
Just a note on this too, although probably not applicable in your case but adjusting valves too tight can cause it to have problems starting, I've done it once on my other bike after adjusting. It struggled but eventually started sometimes readjusting fixed it.
 
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