26,000 mile valve adjustment

ok....ok....this thread started off with a simple question and now it has gone completely off the rails.......
I think the loooong winter months has affected everyone.
Seeing this teeter thing-a-ma-jig on a forum for hard ridin sons of beotches is proof some of us have cabin fever.
Soon fellas.....very soon the ridin season will be here.
Till then.......no more weird and scary contraptions.

Sorry Bunky! Sometimes we just all go nutty here on the board. :wilynily: By the way, did you get those valves adjusted yet?? :poke:
 
I havnt had a chance yet due to weather. We are still in the deep freeze here in southern ontario.
This time last year, we were in shorts and tshirts during the day.
Unless something is indicating to me, I doubt I will.
Just plugs and carb sync is on the menu.
 
Just done the valve shims on my 1995 hilux [2.8 diesel] Toyota book say`s check clearances every 40,000klms,purchased ute 13yrs ago when showing 67,000klms[ no idea if valve clearances were ever done],I did the first ever valve check since owning the ute yesterday at 278,560klms one exhaust was .01mm tight, swapped shim with another exhaust shim which was on the max side, made both smack in the middle. 2 intake one`s were at max clearance so decided to buy 2 new shims to put them spot on all others were good.saying this if I had to pull out the cam to adjust I would not have bothered.What it did show me is how far out they would need to be before doing valve damage.Ok these motor`s don`t rev like a fz1 but goes to show you what little wear you get with shims with correct oil changes etc,also I believe you would know you had a problem long before you did valve damage.once again it`s only my opinion and don`t want to start a war:stirpot:




I havnt had a chance yet due to weather. We are still in the deep freeze here in southern ontario.
This time last year, we were in shorts and tshirts during the day.
Unless something is indicating to me, I doubt I will.
Just plugs and carb sync is on the menu.
 
i asked my yamaha mechanic about a valve adjustment on my YZF600R back when she was around 50k miles, he said basically if it runs fine don't even bother. at 90k miles it still runs strong, never had anything done besides the tranny rebuilt at 20k miles (previous owner couldn't shift).

i am in no way advocating that you do not check your valves. i am however convinced that for the most part that most japanese motorcycle motors are as close to 'set it and forget it' as the ol' showtime rotisserie cooker :D

setitk.jpg
 
Hey fellas....
The summer is finally upon us and I have set up a date to get the valves done. While the bike is on the hoist, I figured getting the plugs changed, carbs synced and the fuel filter replaced would complete a major portion of must do's for my 03 with 50,000 kms.
I spoke with my Yamaha dealer and got a quote for 4 hours of work and parts. Total with 13% sales tax will run me $450 to $470, out the door.
I did compare with other shops and it seems to be the same all around. The Yamaha dealer is a family run shop and in a small town, so no worries on the "stealership" mindset.
Anyways, I will let you all know what transpires after I get my bike back.

By the way...... should I go with OEM spark plugs or pay the $15 per plug iridium's? I hear it makes mileage and acceleration better.....is this just advertising bull......?????
 
...
By the way...... should I go with OEM spark plugs or pay the $15 per plug iridium's? I hear it makes mileage and acceleration better.....is this just advertising bull......?????

I doubt you'll notice much of a difference in mileage or performance when compared to regular copper plugs. Main advantage of the Iridium plugs is longer life. That being said when I changed my plugs I went with the Iridium's. Figured I didn't have to worry about them for quite a while and I got all 4 for less than $30 by shopping around on eBay ;)
 
33k miles, but I suspect I might have issues bc of the valves.
I bought my current Gen1 at 38k miles, so I can only guess that the Valves were checked at 26k. Around 83k I started to hear a clicking noise so I took it to the shop and it needed 2 shims moved. Currently at 125k and there has been no noise since. These motors are well built and keep tolerances really well.
 
I bought my current Gen1 at 38k miles, so I can only guess that the Valves were checked at 26k. Around 83k I started to hear a clicking noise so I took it to the shop and it needed 2 shims moved. Currently at 125k and there has been no noise since. These motors are well built and keep tolerances really well.
I run Motul 7100 Full synthetic, and I've never had a leak or oil consumption. My situation has been really irritating though. I could link to my thread.
 
A valve check isn't so hard a thing to do. A little more involved to swap shims out, re-check and button up. A shade tree mechanic can do it in one Saturday if needed.
Shims are the only expensive thing to source (if you buy a set). Your local dealer/shop likely has a ton sitting around in a drawer. My friends have a set we mail to each other when needed and we take, replace and pass on.
Matt
 
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