Ballmead's AIS Block off plate install

[ballmead]

To install these:


It's much easier if you remove this:



Which leaves plenty of room like this:



And with the use of this tool:



Used like this:



It makes removing this:



A 5 minutes a side job which now looks like this:



If you are thinking of doing the AIS block off, do it at service time and do it all together to save frustration.

As I was going to replace my coolant, I removed the whole radiator and now the AIS block off plates and spark plug install are an absolute breeze.

Once removed the block off plates took literally 5 minutes a side to complete.

They are excellent quality, thanks again Ivan.

 

[FZ1inTX]

This is exactly what I did too. Coincided with the coolant flush and removed the radiator. The only painful part of that process was tracing and unplugging the fan wires. Another tip... if you lift the ECU, you can pop out the gray plug really easy. On the 2009, I broke it trying to remove it from underneath. I used the one from Michele's bike to put it back together.

Also a great time to throw in a fresh set of spark plugs!

John, I've added this as a link in the sticky for ..."Start here!" as "AIS Removal" Thanks!!

 

[Lonney]

Excuse my limited knowledge but what exactly do these block off plates do?

 

[FZ1inTX]

The plates block the two ports used by the Air Induction System (AIS). This system injects O2 into the exhaust ports to help any excess fuel burn off before it exits the exhaust. The OEM can and EXUP valve help this process, but when we replace that with a slip-on, this air injection causes the fuel to still burn but when it ignites (typically on decel) it creates the popping, gurgling and backfiring. By removing the AIS, or blocking it at the airbox, the excess fuel is not ignited inside the exhaust system thus eliminating the noises.

Graves, Ivan and Copperdog all sell these plates which are not very expensive, or you can make your own like I did. I removed the OEM plates, hacksawed the nipples off them then filled the holes with JB Weld and let them cure over-night. I got my hands on someone's OEM set they removed so I prepped them and then swapped mine out.

You can choose to block the AIS at the airbox by plugging the hose or removing the system entirely. Both achieve the same end result. However, removing the entire AIS system provides you with much easier access to the coils and plugs for future maintenance. :Rockon:

 

[Lonney]

Thanks !! Perfect explantion. The Graves pops way less than the TB slipon i had and i like it .

 

[FZ1riderNY]

Thanks for a great "How To" on the plates. I'm going to remove mine very soon. I'm just trying to get as much riding in as the weather will allow. I'll be pulling my Rad as well and change the plugs while I'm up top too. Thanks Ballmead!

 

[ballmead]

No worries mate.
I've seen so many posts where people were struggling with trying to drop the radiator a little to get a bit more access to the AIS system.
It looked like a major pita.
Once the radiator was removed, it was a very simple exercise.
If you're due for a service then it's a great time to get it all done at once.

Sent from my Nexus 5

 

[FZ1riderNY]

No worries mate.
I've seen so many posts where people were struggling with trying to drop the radiator a little to get a bit more access to the AIS system.
It looked like a major pita.
Once the radiator was removed, it was a very simple exercise.
If you're due for a service then it's a great time to get it all done at once.

Sent from my Nexus 5

That's for sure. None of the fluids except for the oil have been changed since I bought the bike so as soon as she's ready to be parked for the Winter I'll do all fluids, coolant, brakes, etc. and get this particular mod out of the way as well as plugs. Then she'll be tip-top for Spring 2015!

 

[Blanchy]

Throw a towel over the front guard (Fender) to stop marking it if you drop any tools/parts.

 

[ballmead]

I forgot to mention, when you change the coolant you can't use the every day fluoro green car coolant.

You'll need to use silicate free coolant.

I personally used an Aussie product, Nulon Blue long life which is silicate, borate and phosphate free. (SuperCheap auto sells it)

Blue Long Life Premix Coolant- Nulon Australia

 

[KyBoy]

Gonna resurrect a dead thread here, but what did you do with the electrical plug? Tape it off? And never get any error codes?

 

[ballmead]

Yes that's exactly what I did and no error codes.

 

[KyBoy]

Thank you, sir.

 

[KyBoy]

Ever since I installed my Graves plates, I have had a problem that wasn't there before. When I whack the throttle open it stumbles and hesitates for a second then catches up. This only occurs while the engine temp is "lo" or around 120°. After it "warms up" a bit, the throttle is back to normal. This is driving me nuts.

I've checked for a kinked hose and can't find anything. Feels as though it is running rich until it gets warmer. I'm considering buying a BMC filter to try and lean it a bit. Any suggestions or advice will be great appreciated.