Brake questions plz 02 fz1

Farishprivers

New Member
Greetings,
I purchased an 02 fz1 a couple of months ago that had been sitting for 7-8 years and has 60000 miles. I haven't had a bike for years and never a good mechanic but have Utubed my way through a paint job and replaced all filters, fluids, ignition, drained gas tank and radiator, etc. and was surprised when it started right up a few days ago. Only thing left to do is the brakes. The master nd front lines were dry as a bone but the rear seems to work. I bought the pump kit and filled the reservoir. The front on both sides have yet to pull fluid and I have spent some time at it (like over an hour) and not a drop. Checked and the vacuum pump works, calipers, pads ,switch etc. seem good. The rubber gasket deal, just inside the lid, looks good, What should I see inside the reservoir? Do those 2 little holes open and close? Are there washers that go on the banjo bolts? There's a threaded hole between the master and on/off switch that is empty. Is something missing? I read someplace about priming the pump. Is that necessary? Could the calipers be empty too?
Please help, I'm kinda lost here and am ready to try it out but not with only my rear brake.
Thanx so much
 

Jboat

Member
Get new brake lines (stainless preferably) and bleed the entire system starting from the left caliper, then the right. Yes a copper washer goes between the banjo bolts on “both sides, meaning one washer on each side of the banjo bolt head. The threaded hole you’re referring to is probably just for the mirror…

The process can be a PITA but watch some YouTube vids and have patience til you get a firm lever…

G/L
 

Ironkev

Member
With a bike that old I would recommend a full caliper rebuild as well as the master cylinders. The seals in the calipers get gummy over time and so does the rubber in the master. The pistons will not retract as they should in the caliper and the pads will drag causing you a more expensive repair. Rebuilding the calipers is easy and usually about 25 bucks for the kit for each caliper and about 15 for the rear. I recommend the volvo rubber grease for assembly. Same for the masters. no special tools needed
Much cheaper than a rotor or two
 

Ironkev

Member
Partzilla will have your exploded views of your bike.
Yes, the two holes should be clear. Copper washers between the banjo bolts ( look at partzilla)
threaded hole is prob your mirror mount
Go to partzilla for exploded views
 

camilolo

New Member
Disassemble all the brake lines from both front calipers and then make sure the master cylinder does its work to deliver the fluid to the end of the brake lines. Service the caliper seals, pistons..etc and then inject fluid to the calipers with a medical syringe. Once the fluid comes out from the reservoir without air bubbles, you can start bleeding procedure at either one of the front calipers at a time. Turn the handlebar to the ends will help escape the airbubble. This I belive will save you half an hour.
 

brentinpdx

New Member
On a bike this old. A few things to get on point. As stated above.. A full brake system rebuild is on order. IF you go OEM you will get all the cups and plunger rods for the front and rear master. Personally, I would use only OEM products which are made in Japan. Aftermarkets can be sketchy from China,, Taiwan or Mexico. New parts are getting harder to buy that is aftermarket. Most consumables are only available from the dealer or Revzilla, which is an OEM dealer. Service the EXUP according to the service manual. Service manuals are available at Chilton. Check the rear swing arm bearings, check the headset, will probably need a fork oil replacement as it will go bad from just sitting. At 60K all the coolant hoses are probably toast. New ones are only available OEM and will run about $250.00 for all of them. Change the thermostat while you are at it. Spark plug wires will no doubt be getting hard. Replacements from the dealer are costly. 65 bucks apiece. MY 01 FZ1 with 48K was pretty toast and I bought some used coils and wires from eBay for $90 for the set.
Carbs should be pulled, cleaned. Get new float bowl gaskets, main jet o rings. Check the slides and the vacuum diagrams for leaks.
Per the service manual, the valve clearances should have been done at 53K. You might want to pull the valve cover off and check them anyway. The intakes tighten up and will stretch then burn. At that point, you will need a teardown and head rebuild. There is plenty of helpful knowledge in the forum to help you with this very important and sometimes overlooked service. Which is essential in keeping it running top-notch
The bike is pretty easy to work on if you have some mechanical knowledge.
 

Scrumbag

New Member
With a bike that old I would recommend a full caliper rebuild as well as the master cylinders. The seals in the calipers get gummy over time and so does the rubber in the master. The pistons will not retract as they should in the caliper and the pads will drag causing you a more expensive repair. Rebuilding the calipers is easy and usually about 25 bucks for the kit for each caliper and about 15 for the rear. I recommend the volvo rubber grease for assembly. Same for the masters. no special tools needed
Much cheaper than a rotor or two
Thx much
 

Scrumbag

New Member
Disassemble all the brake lines from both front calipers and then make sure the master cylinder does its work to deliver the fluid to the end of the brake lines. Service the caliper seals, pistons..etc and then inject fluid to the calipers with a medical syringe. Once the fluid comes out from the reservoir without air bubbles, you can start bleeding procedure at either one of the front calipers at a time. Turn the handlebar to the ends will help escape the airbubble. This I belive will save you half an hour.
Thx Sir
 

Scrumbag

New Member
Disassemble all the brake lines from both front calipers and then make sure the master cylinder does its work to deliver the fluid to the end of the brake lines. Service the caliper seals, pistons..etc and then inject fluid to the calipers with a medical syringe. Once the fluid comes out from the reservoir without air bubbles, you can start bleeding procedure at either one of the front calipers at a time. Turn the handlebar to the ends will help escape the airbubble. This I belive will save you half an hour.
Trying that. Thx much
 
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