Changing out carb boots?

hillm250

Well-Known Member
I recently bought an 02 FZ1 and discovered the boots from the carb to the engine are in bad shape (small cracks on all of them). I've already ordered new carb boots from yamaha. It looks like it will be a pain to get the carbs off to access the boots (looks like I need a good shop manual too). Has anyone ever done this or have any tips?

Thanks
 
Bookmark this page:

http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/FZ1sitemap.htm

Great resource for the first generation

The top right link on this page, PAT's FZ1 Page, is all you ever need.

As far as the carb boots go, I'd budget 4 hours if you haven't done it before, maybe 2 if you're comfortable with working in tight spaces on bikes.

PS: I would look into porting them first, as the interior of the stock boots is not very efficient from a flow perspective. There are many threads on this, but since the boots are already out of the bike, i'd seriously consider it.
 
Take off seat.

Loosen airbox bolts on side of airbox.

Loosen clamps on airbox to carb.

Slide airbox back as far as it'll go and tighten up the front 2 side bolts

now loosen up the joints between carbs / boots.

Slide carbs out of boots, straight back.


From there, you can swing the carbs back and forth enough to remove the bolts on the intake boots and replace them one at a time. I'd recommend using a rag to plug the holes as you're working, just so you don't drop and bolts / screws down in the engine.... The whole job doesn't take long... and I'd recommend getting a Dremel and porting the boots while you're at it.
 
Finished the carb boot replacement yesterday. The old boots were in real bad shape (you could see the cracks pulsate when the bike was running). However after I pulled them off I discovered none of them were cracked all the way through. Since I had the parts I installed the new ones anyway. I was able to replace the boots without removing the carb or airbox but it still took all day and most of the night.

Basicly the summary is you're carb boots are probably fine even if they look badly cracked. Unless you're positive they're cracked all the way through, don't waste your time/money. You can spray starting fluid/carb cleaner on the cracks while the bike is running and listen for change in idle to help better determine if they're cracked all the way though.
 
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