FZ1 Stator Torx bolts

[ilawrence111]

Anyone know the specific size of the 3 torx bolts that hold the stator to the case cover on the inside and outside?

 

[Doc Samson]

I do not but this might help - https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/yam/50045b62f8700209bc7940b1/2007-fz1-fzs10w-parts

If they don't give the actual size, I can sometimes find it by cross-referencing with other sites...

 

[Blue Flash]

When I did my rotor and bearing replacements, i just replaced all of them with OEM bolts. They are pricy, but I bought Yamaha parts to be sure they were the correct sizes and material strength.

 

[Blue Flash]

There may be a lot more information in this thread, but check it out. There are a couple of videos and a lot of photos that I took when I replaced my rotor. My stator was not damaged, but I reversed the spacer at the end of the rotor shaft, and it destroyed the bearings on both ends of the rotor. It is critical that the spacer goes back on the rotor with the flat side against the bearing race in the engine, and the tapered side to the "bell" side of the rotor. Check out this thread:

https://www.998cc.org/threads/gen-ii-rotor-and-bearing-replacement.24255/

The thread is a "Sticky" thread listed at the top of Gen II Garage/Tech Help:



Part 3 (quantity 3) in the parts diagram below are the screws that go in from the inside of the crankcase cover and screw into the threaded holes in the bearing housing..

• When removing the stator, see the videos. You need to remove the plug (Item 8 in the second parts diagram below) and insert a philips screwdriver into the hole to hold the rotor in place while you pull the crankcase cover and stator. There is a video from RM stator where they removed the stator from an R1, and a video from Copperdawg for the same process for a Gen II FZ1. Copperdawg seems to have a more cautious approach. I would follow his method. Both videos are included in the link above.
• From Partzilla:
• The three long screws that hold the stator to the bearing housing that is pressed into the crankcase cover from the inside are shown in the diagram below as Item 3.
• These screws are pricey, but the rotor spins fast. I don't know the hardness or strength of these screws, so it would be hard to determine if other screws will be strong enough to do the job without getting overstressed. You don't want these to break and destroy the generator.
• I replaced all of the screws when I did mine. I don't have to worry about a screw breaking later.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/fz1-fzs10bw/generator

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/fz1-fzs10bw/crankcase-cover-1

Part 6 (quantity 3) in the parts diagram below are the screws that go in from the outside of the crankcase cover and screw into the threaded holes in the bearing housing.. If you do not need to remove the bearing housing to remove the outer bearing, you should not need to remove these screws.