fz1n still running crap help please

hey guys my fz just started running bad the other day the problem is bellow 5000 rpm taken to dealers they spent 6hrs tryin to solve problem but to their credit didnt charge me anything coz the couldnt sort problem out. fault 22 was on diag mode they checked and cleared that, code didnt return but prob still their, callibrated TPS within yamaha spec and only moved problem higher in rev range. if u are super! smooth with throttle its pretty much unnoticeable but if u open throttle a little harder to overtake or increase speed it bogs down and make a n n n n n n n n n n n n n sound wtf help please all advice is greatly appreciated. thanks. the mechanic says he doent want to waste any more time searching for issues that wont result in fixing it...... so please guys any issues happen to u with similar symptoms
 
cheers mate, my bike is running a tad rich how would i go about changing this? im no mechanic and only confident doin basic service. am trying to gather some low cost options for the mechanic to look over. so i dont get slumped with a big arse bill for him spending countless hours tryin to sort it
 
Replace the fuel line from the tank to the injector rail if yours is still the factory plastic line. Most of us have done this, the stock line easily kinks and is almost impossible to tell if it has.

If your issue is a very prominent studder, sort of a hard cut in and out then happlily rev's once past 5K its very likely that it is one or more of your ignition coils.
 
What year is it? It could be the either the plugs, leads or coil are breaking down under the increased load when you crack the throttle. Not too hard or exensive to check.

PK1
 
hey guys got the problem sorted for now changed c1 plug and problem almost completely gone, put a new full set in and seems to be running sweet now but lived with the problem for a while and cant remember if she's back to full health. got it dynoed at puttin out 130 hp bog stock mind you next step is pc and pipe for a little exta horses. dyno run just proves why the pc is an important tool, bog stock runs a few % leaner below 4k and rich above that, dyno guy reckons this is to pass emissions test for Australia and other countries?
 
I'm a bit late getting into this post, but I have to ask you why you think you're running a bit rich? If our ride is stock, i.e. no intake or exhaust mods, and even if there are some modest changes, that FI should be delivering good fueling. You changed your plugs, so how did they look? Even puting a new can on, by itself, shouldn't require much in the line of fueling changes. If you do end up needing to modify your FI, a PCIII or V are about your best way to go. It sounds pretty fishy that your dealer couldn't diagnose a bad plug or plugs. I'd be very uneasy with any dealer that could't fifure that out Any way, glad you got it sorted out. Purchasing a good OEM service manual might save you time and money in the long run.
 
I would give that dealer a miss next time.
Spark plugs would have been very high on most peoples list of things to change when experiencing the problems you had with the bike.


Sent from my SG3
 
I would stop the modding and take it easy before you run into more trouble,modding is best done over a period of time to see if you do run into problems while modding .
 
Mine just started doing this, any time I drop below 5k RPM's it feels like it's dying like if I'm toggling the throttle, it really sucks when I'm in a turn and it starts doing that. Does this bike run fuel filters? If so, where is it located? I did the fuel line mod and it sort of ran better for about a week and then back to the choking. TIA.
 
Mine just started doing this, any time I drop below 5k RPM's it feels like it's dying like if I'm toggling the throttle, it really sucks when I'm in a turn and it starts doing that. Does this bike run fuel filters? If so, where is it located? I did the fuel line mod and it sort of ran better for about a week and then back to the choking. TIA.

Did you read this thread? Change the plugs first.
 
Ah crap. So I decided to run the diagnostics. Here is what I found:

D-03 when I gave it starter it started and flashed Er-4 which is the ECU Internal malfunction Non-registered data has been received from the meter.
-Improper connection in wire harness.
-Malfunction in meter.
-Malfunction in ECU.

I then proceeded to the D-60 (history) and found that there were errors #22 and #46
#22 Intake air temperature sensor open or short circuit detected.
-Open or short circuit in sub wire harness
-Defective atmospheric pressure sensor.
-Improperly installed atmospheric pressure sensor.
-Malfunction in ECU.

#46 Power supply to the fuel injection system relay is not normal.
-Malfunction in the charging system.
 
I'd write the codes down then clear them and see what happens. Then check, clean and add a dab of dielectric grease to all connections including the battery.
How old is the battery ? May want to test it and be sure its ok.
22 should be the sensor on top of the airbox.


Others have cured code 46 with a new battery but it could also indicate a problem with the charging system. More than a few FZ1's have had the magnets fail in the stator.
 
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I'll try that, thanks.


I'd write the codes down then clear them and see what happens. Then check, clean and add a dab of dielectric grease to all connections including the battery.
How old is the battery ? May want to test it and be sure its ok.
22 should be the sensor on top of the airbox.


Others have cured code 46 with a new battery but it could also indicate a problem with the charging system. More than a few FZ1's have had the magnets fail in the stator.
 
while you have the tank up check the main ground wire also, its on the block pretty much straight down below the fuel tank toward the rear ( above transmission area )
 
Just a quick update. *After a while of going through each connector checking and adding dielectric grease I was pretty discouraged to only find 2 connectors with signs of water intrusion. *It just seemed as though that wasnt enough to be the culprits of my problem. I cleared the error log, and saw 2 out of the 3 errors not come back. *However I still saw there was one. *I then proceeded to replace the spark plugs and found one that was not tighten and pretty corroded. That was the problem! Thanks fellows for your help.
 
Had similar probs with my '08 fz1. did all that stuff on here then fitted coil. Sorted. If fz1 ones are expensive on ebay '04 R1 are the same (5VY engine) and are usually cheaper.

Taksi
 
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