Gen 2 shock spring

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Perfect explanation, best, most comprehendive one I've found so far.

I bought my bike with aftermarket Yosh with full exhaust, so no EXUP. I was able to Mos the battery tray to put the R/R on the inside.
I shaved 1mm off each face of the upper bushings and the 2018 R1 shock I bought for $84 fits well. Since it is also adjustable for ride height, I added a few mm of length to make it the same height as my 2008 stock shock eye-to-eye.

Next, I'll measure Static sag, adjust for rider sag adding preload if needed and all the adjusters to center of range. Then I start adjusting with typical Dave Moss procedures for initial setup.
 
Last edited:
LOL! The video shown uses an adapter design (my Version 3) that I developed in 2007 and superseded in 2009 with V4.23. It uses a 2004-2008 R1 shock, not the 2015. Not mentioned in the video, it requires displacement or removal of the EXUP motor and angles the shock ~7 degrees more vertical which changes the effective spring rate. It did however place the nitrogen reservoir to front to eliminate clearance issues (see photo below).

The Post #2 photos do not show the repositioning of the voltage regulator with the stock bracket 'turned upside down'. In reality, the bracket cannot be installed 'upside down' without modification. The bracket supports the plastic battery compartment. Remove the support and the plastic will be stressed from vertical vibration. Also, the rear brake reservoir attaches to the bracket. The mounting flange will now be on the other side. Ty-wraps anyone?

In an effort to combat ignorance, first look into the overall process and goals of swapping the stock GEN II shock. Overall, the first consideration is the strength of the spring to accommodate the riding load.
  1. The original GEN II (2006) was designed for typical riders in 220#+ range with moderate passenger accommodation. The steel stamped shock was used to reduce cost given the R1 frame template and use of a redesigned swing arm and linkage. The spring rate was 685 lbs/in.
  2. Yamaha engineers quickly realized that the spring rate was too strong for the target market which was typically less than 200#s with little passenger riding. The 2007 thru 2015 rate was set at 587 lbs/in which is still quite strong for a 200# rider but accommodates a passenger.
  3. Load effectively increases when the motorcycle is driven into a turn at high speeds. Track use requires a stronger spring.
  4. Preload adjustment is not a substitute for proper spring rate or linkage based height setting.
Second, the damping action of the shock absorber is related to the load and proper spring rate.
  1. Compression damping is related to the amount of movement (height of bump or hole drop) and speed. It primarily serves to limit the amount of upward momentum applied to the frame.
  2. Rebound damping relates to reducing oscillation (pogo stick) when the spring returns from the compression phase.
  3. See #3 above.
  4. The 'inexpensive' GEN II OEM shock does not have adjustment for compression dampening.
  5. All shock action force relates to the particular load which is being compressed. The shock is designed for the particular weight of the motorcycle and load.
So, any replacement of the stock GEN II shock must first consider use of the right spring and second, a similar weight motorcycle. The R1 spring and shock combo is a good starting point as the GEN II, when stripped of some accoutrements, is relatively close. The proper spring force will allow preload adjustment (approximately 20% of overall travel) for standard ride height and sufficient travel to minimize bottoming to extreme conditions. It should be noted that there are other suspension issues i.e.: ride height, steering head angle, trail, etc. which will be touched upon later.

ANY MODIFICATION TO ANY ENGINEERED PRODUCT MAY CHANGE ASPECTS OF PERFORMANCE, SAFETY AND/OR RELIABILITY. STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES.

The end goal of swapping shocks on the GEN II is to affect ride quality and performance. Also, for most sentient beings, there is consideration of value: gain vs. cost and simplicity. On the high end of that spectrum, an Ohlins shock designed for the GEN II is likely the best alternative. Springs can be ordered for the particular rider's weight and riding style. Production quality is extremely high with adjustments and fit. However, not all people are willing to spend approximately 20% of the overall worth of the machine for a rear shock.

When I purchased a new 2007, my butt told me that it did not like the tar strips on the PCH. Cornering feedback on tight turns was tentative. What was the best alternative? Good used R1 shocks were plentiful at a low price point. The R1 shock was the next level of performance and quality from the OEM GEN II. Since both motorcycles shared many parts, why not?

The '04-'08 R1 shocks share the same connection template: bolt diameter and bushing width. The shock series has a significant number of spring weight alternatives (stock '04-'06 good to 180#, '07-'08 to 220#s, accessory to 260#+). However, the eye-to-eye length is shorter than the GEN II. An adapter would be required as shortening the dogbone to recover lost ride height would affect the constant ratio of compression force severely. Also, consideration of the placement of the nitrogen reservoir (the OEM shock has none) in regards to the under-slung voltage regulator was required.

My first design efforts used the R1 shock along with the upper R1 mounting clevis (see photo below). The clevis is required on the R1 because of a different frame mounting design and could potentially serve to provide a ride-height adjustment on the GEN II. I ended up with an adapter (3rd generation) which moved the upper eye downwards and rearwards, with the reservoir to the front clearing it from the voltage regulator. Unfortunately, the exposed stud and bolt from the clevis interfered with the EXUP motor. Luckily, Yamaha had provided an opposite side mounting hole on the motor and only wrenching and a little cutting of the tank mount was needed to provide clearance. However, the adapter changed the angle of the shock in relation to the linkage swing and effectively increased the spring rate. Neither issue was a drop dead, but a better design could reduce installation to a simple 'bolt-in'.

After many drawings I came up with adapter Version 4.23. This placed the upper shock eye in a direct line with the frame flanges and cured both the spring rate issue and need to modify the EXUP position. Tried it on the GEN II with both the '04-'06 and '07-'08 series shocks (different springs). It was a winner. To this day it is the least expensive no-mod, bolt-in GEN II shock swap/upgrade alternative.

I explored adapter design using the '09-'14 series R1 shocks. The eye-to-eye length is shorter and reservoir placement higher than the earlier series. Furthermore, the spring rate significantly stronger (to heavy for anything but constant passenger riding). It was not worth the design effort.

I was enthusiastic when the 2015 R1 spring hit the streets. It appeared to be a good alternative with a spring rate in-between the '04-'06 and '07-'08 series (see chart below) and has a bit longer travel. Given that only the upper eye bushings were a mounting problem, I set about making it fit. I even trimmed the lower rod threaded area to allow lowering the GEN II rear. I could not find a good (inexpensive) and competent means to modify the voltage regulator tray to fit the nitrogen reservoir, voltage regulator and maintain the other functionality (supporting the battery and mounting the brake reservoir) without significant modification. Fabricating a different tray was not economically feasible for a saleable product. It should be noted that the wiring harness for the GEN II does not allow a lot of voltage regulator repositioning and reducing the exposure of the cooling fins to airflow may reduce reliability and longevity. While I could do a Version 3 type adapter with a modified clevis to put the reservoir forward, it was going to be a tight fit requiring more upward adjustment to the lower eye (possible). Not worth the hassle to do it right.

A short observation on the use of the V4.23 adapter. With a proper spring and preload setting, it raises the rear of the GEN II approximately 19mm or 3/4". This is within the range of kickstand and rock-stand use with a 190/50 tire. Go with a bigger rear tire and spacing plates will be needed.

The raising of the rear effective changes the angle of the steering head by ~1/2 degree. This causes the bike to lessen turn-in effort (a good thing IMHO) and increases the risk of handlebar oscillation at high (120mph+) speeds, not a good thing. The GEN II stock is 25 degrees of angle. The R1 is 24. The R1 comes with a steering damper. Tank slap is dependent on many factors including tire condition and inflation, rider position, etc. I suggest that you consider this issue when using the adapter.

The use of R1 ('04-'06) lowering dogbones (see photo - cut-out provides lower eye clearance) can reduce the ride height to stock or lower it further. I use R1 front forks which are shorter than the OEM GEN II and like the lowered center of gravity and flat foot on the ground (I have a short inseam) when stopped. Also, I ride with a 180/55 tire on an R6 wheel (GEN I spec). However, I fabricated an adjustable kickstand and jettisoned the rock-stand.

So, in conclusion, use of the 2015 and later R1 shock is not as simple as it sounds. Better to buy an FZ-MT 10 which comes OEM with a comparable unit.

Early Version 3 adapter.

View attachment 27368

Shock upper-eye to reservoir and eye-to-eye length comparison: 2015-2008-2009.

View attachment 27367

Spring Rate Comparison

View attachment 27369

Rear height reducing dogbone.

View attachment 27370
Thank you for this post. It answers so many of my questions. Very well put!
 
LOL! The video shown uses an adapter design (my Version 3) that I developed in 2007 and superseded in 2009 with V4.23. It uses a 2004-2008 R1 shock, not the 2015. Not mentioned in the video, it requires displacement or removal of the EXUP motor and angles the shock ~7 degrees more vertical which changes the effective spring rate. It did however place the nitrogen reservoir to front to eliminate clearance issues (see photo below).

The Post #2 photos do not show the repositioning of the voltage regulator with the stock bracket 'turned upside down'. In reality, the bracket cannot be installed 'upside down' without modification. The bracket supports the plastic battery compartment. Remove the support and the plastic will be stressed from vertical vibration. Also, the rear brake reservoir attaches to the bracket. The mounting flange will now be on the other side. Ty-wraps anyone?

In an effort to combat ignorance, first look into the overall process and goals of swapping the stock GEN II shock. Overall, the first consideration is the strength of the spring to accommodate the riding load.
  1. The original GEN II (2006) was designed for typical riders in 220#+ range with moderate passenger accommodation. The steel stamped shock was used to reduce cost given the R1 frame template and use of a redesigned swing arm and linkage. The spring rate was 685 lbs/in.
  2. Yamaha engineers quickly realized that the spring rate was too strong for the target market which was typically less than 200#s with little passenger riding. The 2007 thru 2015 rate was set at 587 lbs/in which is still quite strong for a 200# rider but accommodates a passenger.
  3. Load effectively increases when the motorcycle is driven into a turn at high speeds. Track use requires a stronger spring.
  4. Preload adjustment is not a substitute for proper spring rate or linkage based height setting.
Second, the damping action of the shock absorber is related to the load and proper spring rate.
  1. Compression damping is related to the amount of movement (height of bump or hole drop) and speed. It primarily serves to limit the amount of upward momentum applied to the frame.
  2. Rebound damping relates to reducing oscillation (pogo stick) when the spring returns from the compression phase.
  3. See #3 above.
  4. The 'inexpensive' GEN II OEM shock does not have adjustment for compression dampening.
  5. All shock action force relates to the particular load which is being compressed. The shock is designed for the particular weight of the motorcycle and load.
So, any replacement of the stock GEN II shock must first consider use of the right spring and second, a similar weight motorcycle. The R1 spring and shock combo is a good starting point as the GEN II, when stripped of some accoutrements, is relatively close. The proper spring force will allow preload adjustment (approximately 20% of overall travel) for standard ride height and sufficient travel to minimize bottoming to extreme conditions. It should be noted that there are other suspension issues i.e.: ride height, steering head angle, trail, etc. which will be touched upon later.

ANY MODIFICATION TO ANY ENGINEERED PRODUCT MAY CHANGE ASPECTS OF PERFORMANCE, SAFETY AND/OR RELIABILITY. STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES.

The end goal of swapping shocks on the GEN II is to affect ride quality and performance. Also, for most sentient beings, there is consideration of value: gain vs. cost and simplicity. On the high end of that spectrum, an Ohlins shock designed for the GEN II is likely the best alternative. Springs can be ordered for the particular rider's weight and riding style. Production quality is extremely high with adjustments and fit. However, not all people are willing to spend approximately 20% of the overall worth of the machine for a rear shock.

When I purchased a new 2007, my butt told me that it did not like the tar strips on the PCH. Cornering feedback on tight turns was tentative. What was the best alternative? Good used R1 shocks were plentiful at a low price point. The R1 shock was the next level of performance and quality from the OEM GEN II. Since both motorcycles shared many parts, why not?

The '04-'08 R1 shocks share the same connection template: bolt diameter and bushing width. The shock series has a significant number of spring weight alternatives (stock '04-'06 good to 180#, '07-'08 to 220#s, accessory to 260#+). However, the eye-to-eye length is shorter than the GEN II. An adapter would be required as shortening the dogbone to recover lost ride height would affect the constant ratio of compression force severely. Also, consideration of the placement of the nitrogen reservoir (the OEM shock has none) in regards to the under-slung voltage regulator was required.

My first design efforts used the R1 shock along with the upper R1 mounting clevis (see photo below). The clevis is required on the R1 because of a different frame mounting design and could potentially serve to provide a ride-height adjustment on the GEN II. I ended up with an adapter (3rd generation) which moved the upper eye downwards and rearwards, with the reservoir to the front clearing it from the voltage regulator. Unfortunately, the exposed stud and bolt from the clevis interfered with the EXUP motor. Luckily, Yamaha had provided an opposite side mounting hole on the motor and only wrenching and a little cutting of the tank mount was needed to provide clearance. However, the adapter changed the angle of the shock in relation to the linkage swing and effectively increased the spring rate. Neither issue was a drop dead, but a better design could reduce installation to a simple 'bolt-in'.

After many drawings I came up with adapter Version 4.23. This placed the upper shock eye in a direct line with the frame flanges and cured both the spring rate issue and need to modify the EXUP position. Tried it on the GEN II with both the '04-'06 and '07-'08 series shocks (different springs). It was a winner. To this day it is the least expensive no-mod, bolt-in GEN II shock swap/upgrade alternative.

I explored adapter design using the '09-'14 series R1 shocks. The eye-to-eye length is shorter and reservoir placement higher than the earlier series. Furthermore, the spring rate significantly stronger (to heavy for anything but constant passenger riding). It was not worth the design effort.

I was enthusiastic when the 2015 R1 spring hit the streets. It appeared to be a good alternative with a spring rate in-between the '04-'06 and '07-'08 series (see chart below) and has a bit longer travel. Given that only the upper eye bushings were a mounting problem, I set about making it fit. I even trimmed the lower rod threaded area to allow lowering the GEN II rear. I could not find a good (inexpensive) and competent means to modify the voltage regulator tray to fit the nitrogen reservoir, voltage regulator and maintain the other functionality (supporting the battery and mounting the brake reservoir) without significant modification. Fabricating a different tray was not economically feasible for a saleable product. It should be noted that the wiring harness for the GEN II does not allow a lot of voltage regulator repositioning and reducing the exposure of the cooling fins to airflow may reduce reliability and longevity. While I could do a Version 3 type adapter with a modified clevis to put the reservoir forward, it was going to be a tight fit requiring more upward adjustment to the lower eye (possible). Not worth the hassle to do it right.

A short observation on the use of the V4.23 adapter. With a proper spring and preload setting, it raises the rear of the GEN II approximately 19mm or 3/4". This is within the range of kickstand and rock-stand use with a 190/50 tire. Go with a bigger rear tire and spacing plates will be needed.

The raising of the rear effective changes the angle of the steering head by ~1/2 degree. This causes the bike to lessen turn-in effort (a good thing IMHO) and increases the risk of handlebar oscillation at high (120mph+) speeds, not a good thing. The GEN II stock is 25 degrees of angle. The R1 is 24. The R1 comes with a steering damper. Tank slap is dependent on many factors including tire condition and inflation, rider position, etc. I suggest that you consider this issue when using the adapter.

The use of R1 ('04-'06) lowering dogbones (see photo - cut-out provides lower eye clearance) can reduce the ride height to stock or lower it further. I use R1 front forks which are shorter than the OEM GEN II and like the lowered center of gravity and flat foot on the ground (I have a short inseam) when stopped. Also, I ride with a 180/55 tire on an R6 wheel (GEN I spec). However, I fabricated an adjustable kickstand and jettisoned the rock-stand.

So, in conclusion, use of the 2015 and later R1 shock is not as simple as it sounds. Better to buy an FZ-MT 10 which comes OEM with a comparable unit.

Early Version 3 adapter.

View attachment 27368

Shock upper-eye to reservoir and eye-to-eye length comparison: 2015-2008-2009.

View attachment 27367

Spring Rate Comparison

View attachment 27369

Rear height reducing dogbone.

View attachment 27370
Hi!
I just bougth a 2008 FZ1 (all stock) and I have a 2007 R1 shock collecting dust in my garage (for another project that never happened). It seems that this shock would be a huge improvement over the stock one? It also seems that you're THE guy who knows about this shock conversion... Is your adaptor still available? And do you have some instructions about the process?
Thanks a lot!
Sebas,
Quebec, Canada

***p.s.: I'm a mechanical designer, so if the adaptor isn't available I could maybe fabricate one at the shop where I work....
 
Hi again!
Is there a way to buy Satan's adapter V4.23 ? I'm not able to message him directly?...or maybe someone have one to sell?
Thanks!
 
Update...

After doing a mod of the RR tray...the 2015 R1 shock fits. To get 35mm sag I had to use the whole range of preload on the rear shock and set the shock settings in mid range.

I'm reviewing some online R1 forum posts and Dave Moss to adjust settings for the 2015 R1 shock for low & high speed comp as well as rebound.

Modifying the tray and it's location took the longest time, modifying, measuring and refining the bushing took care...but surprisingly only about 45 minutes start to finish.

Studying, modifying and fitting the RR bracket took a couple hours.

Matt
 
Pics from my 2015 R1 shock swap onto my 2008 FZ-1
 

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Thanks for the photos. The final one shows the shock in place but does not show the re-positioned voltage regulator or brake reservoir. How and where did those get fastened? Perhaps photos with the driver's seat off and/or from the right side without the side cover on. Ideally a photo of the modified tray but I know what a PITA that is remove.

I assume the 'RR Bracket' refers to the mounting for the rear brake reservoir?

Also note that the stock 2015 R1 spring rate is about mid-way between the '04-'06 and '07-'08 R1 shocks making is suitable for riders within the 165-205# riding weight. Other than the Hyperpro Progressive, I have not seen much choice if you fall outside that range or want a stiffer alternative for track duty.
 
I'm travelling this weekend. It's a little PIA to get back in there, but maybe next week.

I've discussed the 2015 spring and valving with Jamie of DMR suspension. I probably need a little more spring because I ride two-up sometimes and I also do trackdays and ride with moderate aggression on W. VA and East Coast (PA, NY, NH, VT, VA, NC OH and GA) roads.

Preferably I'lll get a Penske...but not this year (I've drained my cash rennovating parts of my home). So for less than $500 I can have a shock that is probably 75% of a Penske/Ohlins. I did two up on a stock FZ1 at (Chris Peris driving) NJMP ...and the bike with expert rider went well...the Gen2 FZ1 is a YCRS favorite, so a new spring, revalve will probably be fine (but not as nice as a Penske). I've had a Penske on other bikes and have an Ohlins on my VFR800FI...

Matt
 
Stupid question...I have a 06. Would throwing a newer FZ1 shock (that has a softer spring) be enough of an improvement for me? I'm just mostly a commuter. Or could I just set my shock to the softest pre-load setting? I'm looking for some improvement on the cheap.
Thanks!
 
Stupid question...I have a 06. Would throwing a newer FZ1 shock (that has a softer spring) be enough of an improvement for me? I'm just mostly a commuter. Or could I just set my shock to the softest pre-load setting? I'm looking for some improvement on the cheap.
Thanks!

That is a fair question and depends upon your riding weight and style. The '06 shock is rated 685 #/in. As you have likely experienced, that is sufficient for a 240# rider. The '07 and later is 587 #/in. That is acceptable for 220 - 260#. So swapping a later shock will be an improvement if you are in the 220#+ bracket.

The preload setting should be approximately 20% of the shock travel in the case of the FZ1, 1-1 1/4". It does not affect the rate of the shock spring, only the ride height with the weight of the load.
 
That is a fair question and depends upon your riding weight and style. The '06 shock is rated 685 #/in. As you have likely experienced, that is sufficient for a 240# rider. The '07 and later is 587 #/in. That is acceptable for 220 - 260#. So swapping a later shock will be an improvement if you are in the 220#+ bracket.

The preload setting should be approximately 20% of the shock travel in the case of the FZ1, 1-1 1/4". It does not affect the rate of the shock spring, only the ride height with the weight of the load.
Thank You! I thought a lower preload would soften the ride? I'm under 200# in my gear and don't ride with passengers. Anyone with a news shock want to give me a deal on there's they swapped out?
 
Thank You! I thought a lower preload would soften the ride? I'm under 200# in my gear and don't ride with passengers. Anyone with a news shock want to give me a deal on there's they swapped out?
Are you looking for an OEM FZ shock? I have one from my 2007 with 23,000 on it. I also have another 2015 R1 shock if interested.
 
That is a fair question and depends upon your riding weight and style. The '06 shock is rated 685 #/in. As you have likely experienced, that is sufficient for a 240# rider. The '07 and later is 587 #/in. That is acceptable for 220 - 260#. So swapping a later shock will be an improvement if you are in the 220#+ bracket.

The preload setting should be approximately 20% of the shock travel in the case of the FZ1, 1-1 1/4". It does not affect the rate of the shock spring, only the ride height with the weight of the load.
So if 07 and later is 587 #/in. and acceptable for 220 - 260# what do 140 lb guys do?

I reckon about 450lb shock like the Gen1, would be about right...swap spring out for lighter one?
 
"So if 07 and later is 587 #/in. and acceptable for 220 - 260# what do 140 lb guys do?"

That is the reason I developed the R1 shock adapter. The '04-'06 R1 shocks have a 476# rating which is in the range of your weight for street riding. The second side of the two-fer is that the R1 shock is significantly more effective with adjustments than the FZ1 steel can.

If you are totally cheap you can swap out an FZ8 shock/spring which is only 448#s; however, expect a bit of pogo-stick due to the lack of damping adjustment.

PS: Bigboyz12000: Still waiting on the photos showing the modified V/R tray and placement using the 2015+ R1 shock. Thanks!
 
That is the reason I developed the R1 shock adapter. The '04-'06 R1 shocks have a 476# rating which is in the range of your weight for street riding. The second side of the two-fer is that the R1 shock is significantly more effective with adjustments than the FZ1 steel can.

If you are totally cheap you can swap out an FZ8 shock/spring which is only 448#s; however, expect a bit of pogo-stick due to the lack of damping adjustment.
So a 04-06 R1 shock bolts right up? Do I need to mod anything else?
 
So a 04-06 R1 shock bolts right up? Do I need to mod anything else?
The '04-'08 R1 shocks have a shorter eye-to-eye distance than the FZ1 and cannot be used without an adapter. The adapter provides a bolt-in installation and does not require the owner to attempt surgery on the voltage regulator/rear master cylinder bracket as is needed using a 2015 or later R1 shock.
 
The '04-'08 R1 shocks have a shorter eye-to-eye distance than the FZ1 and cannot be used without an adapter. The adapter provides a bolt-in installation and does not require the owner to attempt surgery on the voltage regulator/rear master cylinder bracket as is needed using a 2015 or later R1 shock.
How much for an adaptor?
 
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