Nate
Member
My 2003 pops and hesitates, but when choke is on full it's like the turbo just kicked in.... I'm assuming it's the "carbs" but want to make sure i'm not doing anything stupid...
Hesitates pops.. but with choke on full takes off like twin turbos kicked in..
- Thread starter Nate
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Klurejr
Wizard
When does this happen? Just at start up? you are not trying to ride it with the Choke on correct?
I have a 2003 and always need a little bit of choke for cold starts and when I do that the motor will rev up a bit since it is running without air mixed in. Depending on how cold it is I might leave it like that for 10-30 seconds until the idle sound changes a bit and then disengage the Choke.
In the winter the gas blend is cheaper and worse and impacts Carbs more than EFI motors, so It is much more noticeable, but I still need to choke a cold start on Summer blend.
I try to let the bike warm up as much as possible before I head out otherwise there is a noticeable loss of power when applying the throttle in the 2k - 4k range. Running some Carb Cleaner through a few tanks can help with that, but even better is to run higher quality fuel with good detergents in it. I only use 76 or Chevron in my bike these days and that helps the most.
I have a 2003 and always need a little bit of choke for cold starts and when I do that the motor will rev up a bit since it is running without air mixed in. Depending on how cold it is I might leave it like that for 10-30 seconds until the idle sound changes a bit and then disengage the Choke.
In the winter the gas blend is cheaper and worse and impacts Carbs more than EFI motors, so It is much more noticeable, but I still need to choke a cold start on Summer blend.
I try to let the bike warm up as much as possible before I head out otherwise there is a noticeable loss of power when applying the throttle in the 2k - 4k range. Running some Carb Cleaner through a few tanks can help with that, but even better is to run higher quality fuel with good detergents in it. I only use 76 or Chevron in my bike these days and that helps the most.
Nate
Member
Motor is warm... And when the choke is fully on it pulls hard and strong and without it pops and hesitates.... When riding with the choke on pulls hard and strong..
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Klurejr
Wizard
Sounds like your jetting is off. When the Choke is on it should have all sorts of trouble running since the mixture will be too rich.
If the problem wasn't caused by a previous owner monkeying up the jetting, or it it's something that just started happening after sitting for the winter, it sounds like a good carb cleaning and maybe new o-rings (rebuild) may be in order. If it's always been that way, I would give them a good cleaning and maybe a Holeshot jet kit and timing advancer (since you would already have the carbs out.). The Holeshot kit is easy to do, no drilling, and it makes a huge difference. That should give you a good baseline so you aren't trying to trouble shoot a bad rejetting job.
Nate
Member
It hasn't been like this very long.... The carbs are out and i'm in the middle of spraying and blowing.. I've just got a slip-on.. Should I still go with a holeshot jet kit?? It always popped a bit on deceleration.. Or could I get by just richening the mixture.. now that I drilled out the "plugs".. And can I get to the air screws while motor is running?
Klurejr
Wizard
The popping during decel is normal.
I have never taken my Carbs off the bike since I owned it, but I will run carb/injector cleaner through the system every few months to help with Ethanol gunk buildup.
For reference I bought my Bike with 37k on the clock and it is just shy of 130k right now. That is nearly 100k miles without removing the Carbs.
I have never taken my Carbs off the bike since I owned it, but I will run carb/injector cleaner through the system every few months to help with Ethanol gunk buildup.
For reference I bought my Bike with 37k on the clock and it is just shy of 130k right now. That is nearly 100k miles without removing the Carbs.
The key on the holeshot kit is just getting the floats adjusted properly.
Other than that, replace the main jets, shim the needles, and set the mixture screws per Dale's instructions that come with the kit.
If you aren't at high elevation, set it for sea level. Worked great for me.
You really shouldn't need to adjust the mixture screws after that, but I have a 90-degree bevel gear screwdriver that makes it easy.
The timing advancer... remove the right side engine cover, remove the bolt, replace the plate and bolt, red locktite and torque it back. Done!
Ok, you may have to put it in gear, stand on the rear brake and pull like heck to get the bolt loose...
But it's a 15 minute job.
Other than that, replace the main jets, shim the needles, and set the mixture screws per Dale's instructions that come with the kit.
If you aren't at high elevation, set it for sea level. Worked great for me.
You really shouldn't need to adjust the mixture screws after that, but I have a 90-degree bevel gear screwdriver that makes it easy.
The timing advancer... remove the right side engine cover, remove the bolt, replace the plate and bolt, red locktite and torque it back. Done!
Ok, you may have to put it in gear, stand on the rear brake and pull like heck to get the bolt loose...
But it's a 15 minute job.