How To Install Oxford Heated Grips on FZ1

I finally made some time to Install my new Oxford Heated Grips on my 2003 Gen 1 FZ1 last night. I decided to take some pictures during the process in order to write up this quick "how to" thread. The glue is currently in the "24 hours" of recommended cure time, so I have not actually tested the grips yet to make sure they heat up, but I do not anticipate any issues. I apologize, I think a few pictures came out slightly blurry I was doing everything myself so I had to hold items and take a pic with the camera in the other hand.

First - I always recommend opening the package and making sure all the contents are there and nothing looks broken. I had purchased an open box item from revzilla since it was a bit cheaper and I was happy to find nothing missing. (side note, Revzilla had very fast shipping, even when I selected the basic ground option)

On my bike there are end caps to protect the handlebars and grips, so first order of business was to remove them. The larger allan opening (there is a second smaller one inside that I think is 4.5mm) is 8mm, so I used my Allan Socket (one of the best tools I have ever purchased) to get them off. Once off, the existing grips were glued down, mine looked to be after market, but I have no idea how long they were on there, so I used a razor to cut them off. A quick slice down the middle and the old glue came free allowing easy removal of the Grips.

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At this point you can see all the old glue is really gunking up the handlebar and would make it difficult to install new grips over it, so I used some 60 grit sandpaper to remove the bigger chunks, then I used some 200 to smooth it out, finally I cleaned the dust off using some Mineral Spirits.

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Next up was the test fit, because of the shape of the Grips you need to make sure the part with the exiting cable leads back towards the rider and does not interfere with the Clutch pull on the left, or the Brake Pull on the right. IMO I think they might have fit better if I put them on the opposite sides so the cables came off facing downward and the "bump" was set facing the rider, however they were labeled Left and Right and I decided to stick with convention. The left side slid on pretty easy, so I knew a little more glue would be required. The throttle sleeve on the right had a tighter fit, so I was only going to need a small amount of glue once most of the grip was on. I actually had to use a rubber mallet to tap in the last 1.5 inches into place. The left side I actually slid it on, moved it around some to help spread the glue and then pulled it part way off to add more before setting it in the final spot.

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Next up I needed to identify my mounting point for the controller. There are a few options, a sticky pad you can use to glue the controller down(if you have a flat surface somewhere this would work) or a small mounting bracket. I chose the bracket as it can be direct connected via the mounting screw for the Clutch lever. Pictured is the original screw, which is black in color and the 4 provided screws that come in 2 sizes and the washer to put between the bike and the bracket to make space to go around the handlebar. I used the middle one as I did not need the extra length on the longest size. Like everything I test fitted it first. Then using the 4 small screws provided I mounted the Controller to the bracket and mounted the entire thing.

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Now that all the parts are in place on the handle bars I needed to connect up the battery. I removed the Seat and unhooked the hinge for the Gas Tank, but there is no need to fully remove the tank on the Gen 1. I first connected the negative terminal, then the positive. I then fished the line under the cross bar that the tank is mounted to and figured out how much slack was needed, keeping the majority of slack at the battery area. Once everything was test fitted I used the provided ZIP Ties along with a few of my own to clean up the excess cabling and find locations to put the excess to give it a cleaner look. I still might get some heat shrink to clean it up further where the cables can be seen in front of the Tank. There were also a few re-usable ZIP Ties in place under the tank and on the existing cables on the handle bars I was able to utilize.

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I am also considering fining a better way to route the cables off the Handlebars to under the tank, if I do that I will post updates. Thanks for reading!

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Thank you for doing this. I have the same grips for my '13 FZ1 and haven't put them on yet. Of course, it will be rare that I need them in TX but still nice to have that option.

Do you know if they are different amps per side? The other brand I'd installed on the '09 was higher voltage on the throttle side because it was heating the throttle tube which doesn't conduct heat as easily as the clutch side.

Does it matter if you wire these to a keyed location instead? I know the company says the controller only draws .71 mA but I still don't want any drain on the battery if it can be avoided. I did look at their instructions and it only states direct battery connection.

Thanks! :D
 
That is a good point about different AMP's for each side, I do not know. I will have to check the documentation when I get home. The wiring is pretty basic, just one hot lead and a one negative return, both setup for the size screws you have on a motorcycle battery. There should be no draw on the battery when the bike is off and the unit is now powered on... guess I need to do some testing. I am hoping the rain stays away tomorrow and I can ride the bike and test it out. I needed to take my truck today to pick up some equipment.

If there is a way to wire it to a keyed power source, I do not recall seeing directions for that with the parts.
 
I think it's pretty much standard issue for any motorcycle specific heated grips to have a more powerful element on the clutch side. I imagine that the snowmobile versions wouldn't have that.

I should mention that my Oxford grips, despite having the 'auto shutoff module', once killed my battery when I accidentally left them on. If I were to install them again, I would probably consider setting them up with a relay to switched power so that they are strictly 'off' when I turn the bike off.
 
Finally had a break from the rain and no other need for me to take my car to work. it was a brisk 48 this morning and I got some good use of the heated grips, I did not set them to 100%, I used the next setting down (85%?) and they warmed up to full operating temperature in about 5-6 min and were very nice. I should of done this years ago.

Only one small issue, as mentioned in the tutorial above the grip on the throttle side had a tight fit and had to be persuaded in place with a mallet. The throttle does not spin as easy as it used to and has a tendency to stick a little bit and must be pushed to come off the gas. I am not sure if this is just due to how tight the fit was or something else....
 
Regarding the throttle side sticking: I do remember having exactly this issue with my Oxford grips and it was caused by rubbing/sticking on either the switchgear side or the bar end side, I can't remember which. I did have to trim a little bit off my grips (they are designed with this in mind) as well adjust the lip to fit into the little groove on the left end of the throttle tube. You may just want to play around a little to see if that's the case for you.
 
Regarding the throttle side sticking: I do remember having exactly this issue with my Oxford grips and it was caused by rubbing/sticking on either the switchgear side or the bar end side, I can't remember which. I did have to trim a little bit off my grips (they are designed with this in mind) as well adjust the lip to fit into the little groove on the left end of the throttle tube. You may just want to play around a little to see if that's the case for you.

I meant to update this after I rode home, I noticed the sticking is near the outside of the grip, I think I just need to trim on that side where the Bar End screws in. It has been raining and I have been driving my car so I put this on the back burner.
 
Update: I just cut off the excess rubber from the end of the grip and all is well.

Also, with it being 38/39 degrees when I have left the last few mornings the heated grips have been a lifesaver.
 
I just want to say once more how amazing heated grips are on cold days....

I should of done this years ago and all my future commuters will get these now.
 
Still debating if I want to install mine. The days to use them in TX are very limited. I should because that one day I could *really* use them will be the day I regret selling them.

Now that I have to get back into tapping something electrical (see Watsen's thread), I may as well get these done too. I want to do a small distribution block that is keyed so nothing can be on without the bike on.
 
The oxfords are eco smart grips so they will turn off after a little while after the bike is off. So you can wire them straight to the battery. I heard it's so they stay warm while you're getting gas


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The oxfords are eco smart grips so they will turn off after a little while after the bike is off. So you can wire them straight to the battery. I heard it's so they stay warm while you're getting gas

They shut off pretty quick, I have left them on to see and after a min or two one of the lights starts to flash, then they turn off.
 
It appears I have a different model than what you have, probably older since these were bought 3 years ago and never installed. First, I've answered a few questions.... these cannot be flipped. The two grips are different diameters because of the throttle tube. Second, the book says it can be attached to a keyed circuit. Last, this model I have (Heaterz and not Hot Gripz) does have smart tech to shut them off but with a couple gotcha's that I'm not keen on. It will drain the battery to 10.5 to 11 volts before shutting down and second, if I forget to shut them off, leave them on high-heat AND plug in the battery tender (then I'm officially an idiot!), these have the potential to overheat. I remember thinking "They HAVE to fit!" after seeing the manual with the Gen II FZ1 and R1 on it. LOL!!! It appears this set came from the UK too and wasn't originally sold in the US.... to be honest, I cannot remember where I bought these! Regardless, I'll install them and if needed, they are on the ready. Her new BMW F800R has OEM heated grips so we're both set!
 

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I had the same model as you and will agree that the auto-shutoff, while a great feature, isn't ideal at such a low voltage. I've field tested the auto shutoff feature and it did indeed shut off but 11 volts was too little to start my bike up later that evening. I was stranded.

I think if I were to do heated grips again, I would shoot for wiring them to a switched source.
 
Well, since I now have two unused HOT wires under the fairing, I can use those. I have to reconnect my power outlet (see Watsen Signals thread) and connect the grips. With the Watsen flushmount LED signals, the running light wires are no longer needed so I'll splice into those. Should work nicely!
 
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