Lowering link question............

Cobalt Coupe

Cobalt Coupe

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I have a guy selling a brand new lowering link ( solid, non adjustable ) but he says it only shows fitting 2006 & 2007 FZ1 models on the package so the question is...............will this fit all GEN II models, most importantly my 2009 or are there differences???

It seems like a great price but want to be sure it will fit. By looking at it it looks the same, but want to make sure the bolt holes etc are exactly right. Can anyone confirm it will fit for me???

Thanks,
 
Okay, I got this lowering link a few days ago, and I'll admit it did look a bit long, but what the heck, I test fit it anyway. Well, it dropped the rear of my bike almost exactly a full FIVE inches!

So I contacted the seller ( business ) and let him know what is going on and he is telling me that I either installed it wrong or it is the wrong year/make /model bike.

No instructions came with it, but correct me if I am wrong isn't this as simple as remove two bolts, remove stock link, install new link with same two bolts and it's done???

And he did say say it is spec'd on the package as fitting 2006-2007 FZ1 but like you guys say, any other places selling links say they fit all 2006 - 2010 so I'd think my 2009 should work fine, correct?

Can somebody help me out with some info, I'm pretty mechanically inclined so if I installed it wrong, I REALLY missed something.

It dropped the back of the bike so low the tire hugger is basically against the undertail. It looks great ( if I could get the front as low to match LOL ), but obviously unrideable - well maybe dragstrip only?

Anybody got anymore ideas?

Thanks,
 
Is this a solid (non-adjustable) link? Do you have a pic showing the length of it compared to the stock dog bone? IF not, hold it up under the bike and snap a pic with it below the new link installed and let us see. The replacement should be no longer than 9.5" if you measure from the center of the two bolts.

Yes, this is as simple as two bolts out, two back in. No other work needed. Makes me think this one is just too long period???
 
Yes, it is a solid, non-adjustable type. It looks just like the stocker, but black and longer.

My stock link is 8 1/2 " center to center and this new one is really close to 10" even, maybe 9 15/16", so if 9 1/2" is about as long as it should be, it's about a 1/2" longer and it seems as though a little link length makes alot of ride height difference.

The guy is telling me he's sold alot of these and never had any other complaints/issues from anyone?

If needed I can take some pics and post them here but I have the stocker back on the bike.............

thanks,
 
Cobalt Coupe said:
Yes, it is a solid, non-adjustable type. It looks just like the stocker, but black and longer.

My stock link is 8 1/2 " center to center and this new one is really close to 10" even, maybe 9 15/16", so if 9 1/2" is about as long as it should be, it's about a 1/2" longer and it seems as though a little link length makes alot of ride height difference.

The guy is telling me he's sold alot of these and never had any other complaints/issues from anyone?

If needed I can take some pics and post them here but I have the stocker back on the bike.............

thanks,
Click to expand...

A 1/4" is a fair amount of ride height. My wife has the adjustable one and just a couple turns on that thing and the rear is up or down a LOT! Soupy said 9.5" MAX but on his, that is only because there wouldn't be enough threads left to be secure beyond that length. Being a solid link, yours is likely fine. I have Michele at 9.25" length and we got the bike dropped about 3". According to my crude calculations, every 1/4" of length is about a 1.25" drop ( or raise ) in the rear.

However, what this DOES change is the way the rear shock performs and it is dramatic. The longer this link is, the less travel you get, thus the longer you go, the more "hard tail" you become. It will work on your bike, but it will ride like a buckboard!
 
ya, I know it will work, but I'm not riding it with the tire hugger touching the undertail , and that's without me on it.

I just picked this up cheap thinking it would be nice to knock about 2" out of the ride height just for a nicer look, but like I was concerned about this guy doesn't seem to know what he is selling, or he knows it is a huge drop, but advertised it as only 2" knowing he would never sell 5" drop links.???

I'm trying to get my money back from him, we'll see how that goes.

Thanks,

BTW..........anyone interested in this lowering link that wants about a 5" drop, it is brand new, black anodized, I'd sell it for $35.00 shipped in the U.S.
 
PapaGeno21 said:
Remember to drop the front the same as the rear, or it will handle like total shit.

Ask me how I know. LOL
Click to expand...

I appreciate all the help from everyone, but what part are you guys not understanding that this link I ended up with drops the rear of the bike FIVE inches and I bet there's only SIX inches of travel there to begin with..............I wanted to lower it a little, not slam it to the ground so there's no travel left.

And other than removing the fork springs or COMPLETELY strapping the front down, I don't know how I could possibly drop the front end to match. It would make for nice dragstrip only set-up, but that's not what I was looking for.

To me this is the wrong length link, even though right on the package it says 2006 - 2007 FZ 1, although it does not specify HOW MUCH it will lower it, I took the sellers word for that being TWO inches and since his business is selling motorcycle parts, I thought he might know what he's talking about.
 
Cobalt Coupe said:
I appreciate all the help from everyone, but what part are you guys not understanding that this link I ended up with drops the rear of the bike FIVE inches and I bet there's only SIX inches of travel there to begin with..............I wanted to lower it a little, not slam it to the ground so there's no travel left.

And other than removing the fork springs or COMPLETELY strapping the front down, I don't know how I could possibly drop the front end to match. It would make for nice dragstrip only set-up, but that's not what I was looking for.

To me this is the wrong length link, even though right on the package it says 2006 - 2007 FZ 1, although it does not specify HOW MUCH it will lower it, I took the sellers word for that being TWO inches and since his business is selling motorcycle parts, I thought he might know what he's talking about.
Click to expand...

We understand and yes, the part is too long. Totally agree with your findings. What we did ask for is exact measurements from center of each hole to determine why it is that long. Yes, return it, and yes, beg for one that isn't so long. You're looking for one that is 9 or less inches measured center to center or, getting the adjustable from Soupy's and making the bike exactly the height you want. My wife rides with the Soupy's as does Lytehouse (Brenda) and both love it. PapaGeno had one and his broke while riding.
 
I guess you took it a bit wrong. I know you are not going to drop the bike 5" as you cannot do that even if you wanted.

All I am saying is even if you lowered it 1/2" and left the front stock, it will handle like a bag of ass.

You are looking for a "look" by dropping the tail, I am just forewarning you that unless you match it in the front as well your bike will steer very lazy and be an effort to go back and forth with in the corners.
 
Ya, I got ya guys.............I did post the dimensions a few posts ago, my stocker is 8.5" center to center and this new one is just shy of 10" center to center and since I was just out playing around in the garage with my stock link unbolted and blocked the tire up an additional 2" (to get the amount I wanted), then measured what I should need for a link length, it comes out to right about 9.125 " center to center.

So yes, this link is way too long, cause as you probably know a little goes a long way in this case.
 
Lowering a GEN II more than 3/4" will likely require a shorter kickstand. Be aware that you are also changing 2 other important things.

First, lowering the rear changes the effective angle of the steering head. Each inch difference represents about one degree of change. The GEN II was engineered at 25 degrees. Lowering the rear increases the angle. The GEN II will require more countersteering force (push on the handlebars) to turn. Twisties will give you a workout. You can lower the front end to minimize the effect by raising the fork tubes a corresponding amount in the triples. Lowering both the front and rear will definitely require a kickstand reduction. Also, if the rockstand is still in place, curbs and deep holes may present a grounding problem

The GEN II actually improves handling with a reduction in the head angle (lowering the front more the the rear). The R1 angle is 24 degrees. However, reducing the steering head angle can also reduce high speed stability. It is best to keep the front and rear within 1/2" of the stock heights.

The second issue is the rear linkage relationship when you change the dogbone or increase the shock eye-to-eye length. When fully extended (i.e.: rebounding from a large bump), the bottom of the shock eye may contact the dogbone. Over time, this will a.) loosen bolts, b.) destroy the linkage roller bearings, c.) induce bending or fractures in the linkage plates or d.) fracture or break the dogbone. None of these conditions contribute to an uninterrupted life on earth. After replacing and adjusting the dogbone, raise the rear wheel off the ground and make sure there is 1/4 to 3/8" clearance between the shock eye and dogbone.

I have found that lowering the GEN II (front and rear) by about 3/4" makes for a better riding experience. This includes use of a lowering dogbone made for an '04-'06 R1. The design has a cutout section for the shock eye when fully extended. When used with an R1 shock and my adapter, the net lowering effect is 3/4". I use a R1 ('08) front end with the tubes (approximately .5" shorter than the GEN II) dropped about .5" in the R1 triples which also give another 3/8" drop over the FZ1 upper. There are 2 downsides. The first is the need for a shorter kickstand. I altered the stock one with a screw type mechanism. The second is ground clearance. I notice that most in twisty sections. Even though I have -1. -1" R1 rearsets, I find the front outside of my shoes scraping if I have not moved to the balls of my feet on the pegs. Such is life . . .

That being said, the other major factor in suspension is having the correct weight/force springs (for rider/gear load) and setting the preload properly. That is another story.
 
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Satan666 said:
Lowering a GEN II more than 3/4" will likely require a shorter kickstand. Be aware that you are also changing 2 other important things.

First, lowering the rear changes the effective angle of the steering head. Each inch difference represents about one degree of change. The GEN II was engineered at 25 degrees. Lowering the rear increases the angle. The GEN II will require more countersteering force (push on the handlebars) to turn. Twisties will give you a workout. You can lower the front end to minimize the effect by raising the fork tubes a corresponding amount in the triples. Lowering both the front and rear will definitely require a kickstand reduction. Also, if the rockstand is still in place, curbs and deep holes may present a grounding problem

The GEN II actually improves handling with a reduction in the head angle (lowering the front more the the rear). The R1 angle is 24 degrees. However, reducing the steering head angle can also reduce high speed stability. It is best to keep the front and rear within 1/2" of the stock heights.

The second issue is the rear linkage relationship when you change the dogbone or increase the shock eye-to-eye length. When fully extended (i.e.: rebounding from a large bump), the bottom of the shock eye may contact the dogbone. Over time, this will a.) loosen bolts, b.) destroy the linkage roller bearings, c.) induce bending or fractures in the linkage plates or d.) fracture or break the dogbone. None of these conditions contribute to an uninterrupted life on earth. After replacing and adjusting the dogbone, raise the rear wheel off the ground and make sure there is 1/4 to 3/8" clearance between the shock eye and dogbone.

I have found that lowering the GEN II (front and rear) by about 3/4" makes for a better riding experience. This includes use of a lowering dogbone made for an '04-'06 R1. The design has a cutout section for the shock eye when fully extended. When used with an R1 shock and my adapter, the net lowering effect is 3/4". I use a R1 ('08) front end with the tubes (approximately .5" shorter than the GEN II) dropped about .5" in the R1 triples which also give another 3/8" drop over the FZ1 upper. There are 2 downsides. The first is the need for a shorter kickstand. I altered the stock one with a screw type mechanism. The second is ground clearance. I notice that most in twisty sections. Even though I have -1. -1" R1 rearsets, I find the front outside of my shoes scraping if I have not moved to the balls of my feet on the pegs. Such is life . . .

That being said, the other major factor in suspension is having the correct weight/force springs (for rider/gear load) and setting the preload properly. That is another story.
Click to expand...

Hello Satan666 and fellow riders,
I am not sure whether it is right to ask a question related to rear suspension links in this thread or not. Anyways, I have a 2013 FZ1N and it has clocked around 30K Kms. From past few months I started to notice that the rear seat height reduced, I thought that the suspension might need some adjustments so I adjusted the pre-load and damping but that doesn't seem to work. Today, after coming back from the ride I thought of having a thorough inspection, and then I noticed that both the linkages are bent which caused the reduction in height. I have attached the picture for your reference. I got them straightened out (pic attached) but the job carried out is not as per my expectation cuz I think they have been hammered instead of a power press. Now, I have 2 questions in my mind:
  • Is my shocker functioning correctly or not?
  • Should I install the straightened out linkages or order new ones?
Thank you
Lucky
 

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WOW

I know Knievel didn't make his jump across the Snake River, looks like you may have flubbed your landing as well.

Please replace those with something solid, once bent they will just bend much easier next time. If you don't already have them, stronger springs on the rear shock and forks are probably also in order.

PS: I know nothing about Gen 2.
 
Looks like someone was practicing touch 'n goes for their pilot's license!

Also the parts in the photos appear to be made of aluminum. To my recollection, the OEM parts are dark coated steel. Where these lowering replacements or swapped? They are very similar looking to '04-'06 R1 and as such would have a different bolt pattern and distance ratio to the FZ1. That could contribute to the stress factor.

Any bending of high-tensile aluminum or steel significantly reduces its strength and increases the susceptibility to fracture. It does not make much strength difference on the method of straightening, it is more a factor of properly heating the part and tempering it after compression. Definitely take the above advice and replace.

Finally, given the change in mounting center lines, examine your dogbone for signs of contact with the lower shock eye. If there is a 'ding' I suggest that you also replace the dogbone as a fracture of that piece while riding will be a real drag. It is also possible that the shock rod may be bent and that will create another potential failure scenario. Check for scores on the rod and/or seal leaking.

The GEN II is rated at ~460# load. If you are overloaded, the failure is on the rider. 2-up riding requires more attention to avoiding pavement breaks which could cause bottoming and be a possible indicator of why the triangles bent. All it takes is one good pothole! Check your rear rim for deformation along the bead seat.

That being said, it is important to match the rear spring to the load carried. The stock GEN II ('07 +) is optimal for about 240#. If you are riding 2-up, a preload adjustment should be done to compensate and prevent bottoming. Also, if you are heavy loading on a routine basis, I suggest a spring change (or the substitution of an FJR) is a wise choice.
 
Surprisingly from 06 on the payload of the Gen 2 FZ1 has been 419 lbs, the payload of the FJR1300 is 410. I think the reason is the Gen 2 has a 190 rear tire. The FJR has higher dry/wet weight and GVWR. Just quoting specs that surprised me. Here's another the load capacity of a Goldwing is 425.

Caveat: I didn't check every year of both models.
 
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