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Need help with the R1 wheel conversion and what bearing kit to buy? R1 or FZ1

AFM674

AFM674

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Hi everyone, longtime no see!
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I haven't been on the forum in years. But I've had (6) FZ models and still have two...FZ1 09' and a FZ10 17'

My question relates to the R1 wheels and the Gen2 wheels and what's really different about them other than colors? I think these wheels are I identical except for a carrier bearing and (1) spacer. I'm also not sure that the carrier is actually different...meaning is the R1 carrier narrower than the FZ1's? Has anyone ever had both of these wheels apart and measured all these components? The carrier bearing and (1) spacer have different part numbers, but I'm pretty sure that the first 3 digits tell the model and it's the center (5) part numbers that really matter? I'm pretty sure the rear axle is also the same, but it shows the first (3) digits as being different. I'm just getting ready to replace all the bearings on (2) R1 wheels I bought for track days. The question is are they R1 wheels or just wheels that fit both bike models R1/FZ1 Gen2 with a few parts being different to line up the sprockets and chain. I'm no mechanic, but I like my stuff done right and can ask a lot of questions sometimes.
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I don't know if the carrier is actually different other than the bearing for the sprocket carrier. The other (2) bearings are the exact same part number. Thanks for your help. Happy Riding!
 
The R1 sprocket carrier is slightly narrower than the FZ1 presumably due to the difference in the R1 frame and swingarm. The R1 wheel itself is the same on certain years (2004-2012). Check the parts fiche. I suggest that if you use the FZ1 parts (bearings,, spacers, collars, etc.) you won't have a problem.

I have done R6 rear wheel conversions on the GEN II to use a 180/55 for less weight and better turn-in (5.5" rim width - GEN I spec); however, I used the FZ1 bits including sprocket carrier with a custom bushing/spacer on the brake side. It did not appear to change the wheel centerline using that approach.
 
Satan666 said:
The R1 sprocket carrier is slightly narrower than the FZ1 presumably due to the difference in the R1 frame and swingarm. The R1 wheel itself is the same on certain years (2004-2012). Check the parts fiche. I suggest that if you use the FZ1 parts (bearings,, spacers, collars, etc.) you won't have a problem.

I have done R6 rear wheel conversions on the GEN II to use a 180/55 for less weight and better turn-in (5.5" rim width - GEN I spec); however, I used the FZ1 bits including sprocket carrier with a custom bushing/spacer on the brake side. It did not appear to change the wheel centerline using that approach.
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Any chance you can give any more details about the spacer needed? Did you make one from scratch or modify an existing one? Or do you have specs? I'd appreciate any info I can get on this.
 
Here is a picture of the bushing. The slot rides in the frame opening to prevent rotation but it is likely not necessary if the axle nut is torqued to spec. The locking nub on the caliper mount still engages the frame boss.

The drawing with the dimensions is located somewhere in my South Dakota storage unit. It was simple enough that I did not do a CAD drawing. If I recall, the ID is 1.16 (Axle diameter + .005), the OD is 1.575 (face of the caliper mount), and the thickness of the spacer portion ~.22".

I suggest that you assemble the rear wheel and sprocket hub with all the bearings, spacers in the swing arm (axle finger tight) and use a pry bar to push out the caliper mount to measure the spacing needed. I believe either the FZ1 or R6 mount will work (R6 requires swapping rotor also). That will give you a rough estimate of the spacer thickness. I recall doing the individual parts length measurements, but the rough estimate should be sufficient not to stress the swingarm.

Adapter Bushing.webp
 
The main reason to go 190/55 is an increase in weight or horsepower. For those who mod all things engine or weigh over 275, I'd say the heavier tire is the way to go. Raising the rear through a larger profile seems to improve handling. Also, if you are an aggressive or high-mileage rider, the larger tire will likely last longer. Be careful with pre-load so as not to exceed reasonable kickstand angles.

Personally, I seek the other direction, bring the weight down, optimizing the stock horsepower and tinker with other things to tweak the suspension (i.e.: shock, springs, dogbone etc.). Lighter weight = less effort to ride. The 180/55 has no problems with 130-160 hp, particularly wheelspin or excessive wear, and has sufficient sidewall traction to make chicken strip elimination a real challenge. It is just fine for the GEN I. I'm not one that needs to flaunt 'big' things so visually, the smaller doughnut is OK. Any successful effort at losing weight, even just a few pounds, is a plus in my book. There is also the cost reduction factor

As far as effort goes, the wheel swap is low on the mod scale. Hardly more work than changing a tire. Less, cost-wise, if you purchase a used R6 assembly with tread left; although, I am partial to new rubber. If you fleabay the OEM wheel, you may come out ahead or break even.

So, my answer is definitely 'yes'. Looking at most of the new liter (and almost) nakeds being sold today with the 180/55 rear, I believe many factory engineers agree.
 
My reason for going to the 190/55 was to get the bike to tip into corners with less effort, which it definitely does, so I'm thinking that going to a narrower tire will make the bike even more nimble. I have read that this is the case with the FZ8 and it's 5.5" wide wheel and 180 tire vs. the FZ1. Do you feel that the cost and effort would be justified for this purpose?
 
Cost? Figure $200 for the wheel. Spacer is up to you. Gen 2 rear will likely fetch $150-$200 or so on fleabay. You need a new rear at some point anyway ($165 for a PP2CT). So your net investment will be about $50 or a weekend of Starbucks. Throw in a bit more if you do not change and balance your own tires.

Effort to swap the rear, fit up the spacer, do the fleabay, dispose of the cardboard, maybe 3-4 hours. Worth it? You tell me. I did it to 2 Satan machines.

I would not say that you will notice a significant change in handling over the 190/55. You are already getting the benefit of the profile (55 vs 50) and the reduction in steering angle. If you are a "big" boy, leave it be. I'm an old man so I need a ride that I can pick up if it falls down. Every pound takes its toll!

The FZ8 is lighter than the FZ1 but it does not stretch your arms as much! Nimbleness is proportional to weight and durometer. I have a 701sm and a Duke for exercise in the Smokies. The FZ1 is for the PCH, Old Creek Rd and wine country sightseeing. Do you own an electric screwdriver?
 
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