Valve Check article

I was doing some research for my own bike when I stumbled across this:

Checking Valve Lash - Feature Review - Motorcyclist Online

I thought the Gen 1 guys could use it, since that is the bike being worked on.



High-performance motorcycle engines require hardly any maintenance at all. Yep, you should keep the oil clean and change the filter, but often service recommendations suggest that inspecting the valve clearances is something done infrequently.

For example, on Yamaha's latest 20-valve literbikes, you're not expected to check valve clearances (sometimes called valve lash) at the initial service; Yamaha thinks you can forget about the valves until 26,600 miles!

We're going to tell you how to check valve clearances, but not how to actually make the adjustments. Why? In part, because there's not enough space in How-To to do the subject justice, but also because many modern engines must have their camshafts removed to gain access to the adjusting shims, which is a considerably more complicated mechanical endeavor.

These engines use what's called shim-under-bucket adjustment, in which small steel shims are placed between the end of the valve stem and the bucket follower that's in contact with the camshaft lobe. You must remove the cams to liberate the buckets to even see the shims. Other designs may use screw-and-locknut or shim-over-bucket adjustment; in either case, you can adjust the valve clearances without pulling the cams.

With some bikes, there are special tools that allow you to extract the above-the-bucket shims without removing the cams. On a cold bike, start removing bits and pieces until you have a clear shot at the valve cover. A shop manual and digital camera will help you keep track of what goes where. (1)

Be patient and consult that shop manual. If it says you'll need to remove the carbs, for example, you should do so; shortcuts seldom work out to your advantage. Be particularly careful to clean the area around and above the cam cover before you remove it; some bikes collect muck beneath the airbox or fuel tank, and you don't want this stuff in your engine.

Some bikes, like this Yamaha FZ1, require that you drain the radiator slightly before removing the upper coolant hoses. When you remove the cam cover, pay attention to the orientation of the O-ring and any other sealing devices under the mounting hardware (2).

Next, remove the cam and timing covers (3, 4). You will use the ignition trigger as a reference for the proper crank position for measuring valve clearances. Again, consult your manual. On the Yamaha, you start with the number-one cylinder. Set the T on the ignition rotor to the crankcase split line behind the pickup. This sets top-dead center on the number-one cylinder. Use a wrench to turn the crank.

Now look at number one's cam lobes; they should be pointing away from each other (5). If they're not , you've got the engine at TDC on the exhaust stroke; rotate the crank one full turn. Reference your manual for the proper cold clearances. For the Yamaha it's 0.11mm-0.20mm on the intakes and 0.21mm-0.25mm on the exhausts. Hint: You can find this information on the "smog" tag on the frame (6).

Grab your feeler gauges and pick out the one matching the desired cold clearance. Gently slip the feeler gauge in between the cam lobe and follower of the number-one cylinder's valves (7).

It should slip smoothly between the surfaces. So far so good? Try the next-thickest gauge. Does it fit? Continue until you find the thickest gauge that will go in without jamming or binding--this one's too thick (8).

If the gap is too small, work down to the gauge that does fit. That's your cold clearance. Write it down in your service manual before you forget it. Continue with the other valves on this cylinder and then move to the number-two cylinder after you've rotated the crank 180 degrees clockwise. Check, rinse, repeat.For the number-four cylinder, rotate the crank another 360 degrees clockwise and check; for the number three, rotate the crank another 540 degrees clockwise. Don't get confused; all you're doing is ensuring that the cam lobes are facing away from each other on the cylinder you're measuring. It's that simple.

What if you find out-of-spec clearances? Borderline loose clearances aren't worth worrying about immediately, but tight valves should be adjusted as soon as possible.

There is a picture gallery with the article that looks very useful. Click on any of the pictures to be taken to it. Link: http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/features/checking_valve_clearance/photo_01.html
 
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I am considering doing the adjustment myself on my Gen 1.

I recently noticed a clicking noise that must be the valves out of adjustment. So far it sounds like I should order the following first:

Shop Manual for the Gen 1.
Feeler Gauges
Shim Kit

Anything else i should consider? I found this feeling gauge set:
https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...Reading-Feeler-Gauge-Set-32-Blade-Combination

And this guide:
https://thewolftamer71.blogspot.com/2013/11/fz1-maintenance-valve-check.html

I have an electronic version of the Service Manual and it has this section on special tools:
fz1 Special Tools.jpg

Anyone know if all of these are required?

Shop quoted me $440 to have them adjusted, just wondering if it is worth my time and energy to purchase a bunch of tools for this job or not.

Here are the pages from the Service Manual, I have never done anything like this before, so I would be going in with no experience.
fz1 Vavle Adjustment 01.jpg
fz1 Vavle Adjustment 02.jpg
fz1 Vavle Adjustment 03.jpg
fz1 Vavle Adjustment 04.jpg
fz1 Vavle Adjustment 05.jpg

Thanks for any advice and input.

EDIT:
Found this guide on checking and adjusting the valves.... hand drawings.
FastFrank's Valve Check/Adjustment Tips
 
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I did a valve adjustment on my Gen II last winter. Both will be similar. It's quite a daunting task to tackle, but I was able to go slow and carefully and successfully completed the job. I just kept telling myself i was saving $700 by doing the work myself.
The only problem I had was when I rotated the engine without the cam chain tensioner in place and the chain jumped one tooth on one of the cam sprockets. It caused some extra work to get the chain back in place but I got it done.
On a scale of 1-10, I'd say the job is about a 7 or 8 in difficulty. Be honest about your mechanical ability before you tackle the job. There are lots of parts to remove and some tight spots to wiggle parts out of but go slow and easy and it isn't a horrible job.
I did get a feeling of satisfaction in doing the work myself and I saved about $700. CDN dealer cost!
I had the electronic manual and bought some slim feeler gauges. I don't recall any other special tools required.
 
So, I can hear a clicking when the bike starts up and it quiets down a bit after the motor warms up, but it is still there. I am pretty certain it is the valves. Do I need to park the bike until I get them adjusted? It is my DD, but i can commute on the vStar for a bit, I just prefer to ride my FZ on a daily basis, it is better for commuting and lane splitting.

I am still debating over trying to change the shims myself vs taking it to the shop. I am just limited on time these days.
 
well, I chickened out. After further review I decided this was not a job I wanted to attempt on my own. Took her into the shop yesterday.

$440 labor (4 hours)
plus parts, I am having them change the plugs and air filter since it will all be torn down and no added labor will be added.
 
I don't blame you one bit. I have to do the valve check on my VFR soon as well and I am most certainly not going to attempt it myself. Hope everything goes smoothly!
 
You need to find a good mechanic Bluey.

I have 2 mechanics that I trust, Paul from WET4U racing and Mark from MAS Motorcycles (where we held the dyno day a while back).

Both are excellent mechanics.
 
I am afraid there`s no mechanic`s here I trust enough, they most likely do more harm then good, valve`s have to be a fair way out to cause any problems! I never heard of anyone who has blown a FZ1 motor up due to not having the valve checked? while I not saying don`t get them done, I am not going to check mine while my bike starts easily and idle`s and runs well.I know some will say I am crazy but the bike is not worth bugger all now as a trade in so hardly worth the cost.The bike has done 64,000klms now, may check it at 100,000klms if I still own it or it has`nt blown up! LOL
 
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I meant to update this, ended up costing just shy of $700 total, I had the plugs replaced and the air filter replaced while they were in there working on it. They had to change 3 of the shims and the clicking noise is gone, bike runs like a champ.
 
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