Brohay's Air and Jetting Thread.

Brohay was having problems starting a thread... I couldn't figure out why.... so .. now, here's Brohay's thread on jetting and the airbox mod. ... all in one place so it's easy to find..
 
Last edited:
Here's what we've go so far..

FZ1, If one were to restrict the airflow, say in the form of putting a db killer in the exhaust, might that help the popping?

I also ran my finger inside the exhaust tipp, and did have some buildup. From that, would you have any suggestions as to whay might be taking place??

I am trying to do all maintenance myself and the carbs, a little bit hesitant, are next inline.

Thanks,
BroHay


Popping occurs because of unburnt fuel in the system... this happens for several reasons, but #1 is that the bike is tuned to run very rich at low RPM... this is an easy fix... just a matter of changing the float height... I'd shoot for about 13-13.5 mm ... as a good base line...



Man, 3 weeks already....I've been trying to do many things to my Gen1 and fighting for the bits and pieces all the way along. But you did give me one avenue to think about with the popping and I'm going to look into the air filter.

The only K&N filters I've seen are in Ivans Pod Kit. Is there an application where you don't have to do the kit, and is there a way to increase the overall airflow with the factory filter box??

Thanks,
BroHay

I don't know how I missed this one... and if I had the power, I'd move it.... but... yeah...

Get a K&N filter for the box... and there are some airbox mods you can do...



Cut a 1\\" hole in the top of the box... directly above the snorkel....

then, cut the snorkel in half lengthwise... removing the section that points towards the carbs...

that's the airbox mod...

after that, I'd recommend a Factory Pro Jet kit and Timing advance.
 
Last edited:
Thanks VA_Rider!! (that ought to have put a dent in your debt :D)

I don't know what to say about not being able to post, I'd go through the actions, click submit, and nothing would happen (although there might be multiple postings in the near future if my original attempts decide to show up??)

Thanks,
BroHay
 
Last edited:
well, from above post, if I am to modify the existing airbox, I'll have to do a jet kit. But what about this timing advance?

I also have to look into the anatomy and how to adjust the carbs (sync for that matter) but is the 13-13.5mm float adjust something done externally, or do one have to pull the whole carbs?

Thanks,
BroHay
 
Last edited:
you have to pull the carbs to adjust float height... not a bad process...

Here's a nice little step by step on carb tuning... it comes in handy...

CV Carb Tuning Procedures


The timing advance can be done yourself... but it's just as easy to buy the dang advancer and not worry about whether or not you did it right... that way, it's also reversible.
 
Ok, so it has been awhile since I last looked at doing this, but after talking to a local shop, and them wanting over 280.00 to rejet the carbs and then another 60.00 to sync, I'm going to give it a stab myself less the syncing.

Looking at installing Ivan's Jet Kit on an '01 Gen I. I've been hesistant to give it a go b/c I've been trying to educate myself since this is the first time I've ever turned wrenches on anything that I've owned (to this degree).

Anyway, I was revisiting the item and had forgot about this thread originally but I would like to point out (with clarification from VA_Rider) that the original picture in POST #2 is incorrect.

The mod is a combination of two different suppliers of Jet Kits. You still have the 1-1 1/2" hole in center above the snorkel, but the part removed from the snorkel needs to be the back half, pointing away from the carbs, and not as originally indicated in POST #2, pointing towards the carbs.

When I get into this, I'll be sure to post pictures of the work in progress.

BroHay

attachment.php
 
I know that the dealer is asking for a lot of cash, but if that includes runing it on the dyno and making sure the air/fuel ratio is correct all the way through the rpm range, it will be well worth the price. Not very many home tuners have the right equipment to ensure that, in fact, the bike is pulling at it's best. About the fifth time you have taken the float bowl off to change jets or removed the slide to change the clip on the needle, you may be thinking te dealer's price was a bargain. There has a caviat though. The dealer must know what he is doing. If you do decide to do it yourself, make sure you have very good screwdrivers and a set of new gaskets. There's nothing worse than messing up those soft screws that hold the bloat bowl in place or, just when getting it right, having a fuel leak from bad gaskets.
 
4:12AM!! I thought I didn't sleep. Go to bed man!!

I fell asleep early last night (around 7:30) and woke up for the nightly routine (dog/kids) around 12:45 and couldn't get back to sleep. Crawled back into bed around 2:30.

Tis the only way to do methodical research while the troops are sleeping.

BroHay
 
but after talking to a local shop, and them wanting over 280.00 to rejet the carbs and then another 60.00 to sync, I'm going to give it a stab myself less the syncing.

Dude.... buy yourself a set of gauges... the sync is EASY... and you can get the gauges for what the dealer wants for a sync.... eBay Motors: Carburetor Synchronizer carb sync Gauge 4 cylinder bike (item 330309704032 end time Feb-28-09 20:50:35 PST)

let me know what you're going to do... heck... if nothing else, I could mail you my gauges... you can use them and send them back to me.... Did you see over in the "other" forum? I blew the top off of the jetting mystery....
 
FOUND the missing "link" -- I'll let you know when it gets closer. I may take you up on your offer if I can't find a sync tool.

Just one more reason to spend the money for the tools and eliminate the stealer all together.

Thanks,
Adam
 
Last edited:
As for the airbox mod, conflicting info from the "other" link.

You originally noted removing the side of the snorkel that points towards the carbs, amended that to be the half pointing away from the carbs (pic in post 8 removed in your original) but the writeup in the "other" link states the original configuration (pic removed).

I'm still learning about all the technical stuff as to why it is done and the effects, but which way is the most benefit obtained? Or as long as 1/2 the snorkel is removed to increase air flow that is all that matters?

BroHay
 
I haven't noticed any adverse effects in having cut the wrong(back) side of the snorkel... but... you're supposed to cut off the side of the snorkel facing the carbs.... so... yeah... the pic in #8 is correct.... although, it looks like a lot of extra work was done to that one... in the pic in #8, it looks like someone took the time to remove all of the ridges in the bottom of the cover on the carb side...which is INSANE... and makes no difference.... the goal is to try to get a straight line of air to the carbs, through the carbs, and modified intake boots, into the engine....

so... yeah... cut off the side facing the carbs... which will be the side away from the inlet on the cover... (since the inlet sucks air facing the rear of the bike) ....
 
Back
Top