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Chain stretch

spyd3rm4n

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The chain is loose on my 2004 FZ1 and needs to be adjusted after 2500 miles. No big deal, but I'm just wondering how good the original chains are on the Gen I.

I bought this bike last year with only 2600 miles on it (to replace my trusty old silver one) and adjusted the chain slack when doing the new owner maintenance, but it's really loose now.

I remember from my motocross days with brand new Yamaha and KTM bikes, the factory chains were trash and had to be frequently adjusted, but once replaced with a DID or other quality chain it was one initial break-in stretch and then I'd almost never have to adjust them any more after that. My 2002 silver FZ was like that, I think I used a Parts Unlimited chain and only had to adjust it once or twice over 20K miles.
 
The Gen 1s came with DID VX chains as did the R1. That’s all I’ve ever used in circa 400K miles on Gen 1s. I typically get 25K or better.

I don’t over tighten. I alternate between Chain Wax and WD 40 every 250 miles or so. When the rollers get shiny hit it again. New chains for first 2500 miles will need a couple adjustments but then it settles in for the long haul.

https://pjsparts4u.com/product/did-520-vx2-gold-black-x-ring-chain/. PJ from the old FZ1OA site has them for $106.

I always use oem sprockets, others have success with after market.
 
I don’t over tighten. I alternate between Chain Wax and WD 40 every 250 miles or so. When the rollers get shiny hit it again. New chains for first 2500 miles will need a couple adjustments but then it settles in for the long haul.

Thanks! That's helpful, exactly what I was looking for. So they're fairly robust after an initial stretch.

I've learned to leave my FZ chains on the looser side of the specified range. I use a wax but don't go crazy with the application. When it gets too messy I'll use a solvent to remove all the buildup then apply a fresh coat.
 
Do motocross bikes use o-ring chains?

Coming from old skool Suzukis which ran 630 the 530 was an eye opener. The bike felt lighter and pushed around garage noticeably easier. What surprised me was the 530 chains lasting 50% to 75% longer even when retrofitted onto the Suzuki. I noticed the VX chains are now called either VX2 or VX3. I haven’t found that DID chains with more letters in the model designation i.e. ZVXM last any longer even though they meet higher tensile strength. If I had 180 hp at rear wheel I might buy a consonant or two.
 
Do motocross bikes use o-ring chains?

Coming from old skool Suzukis which ran 630 the 530 was an eye opener. The bike felt lighter and pushed around garage noticeably easier. What surprised me was the 530 chains lasting 50% to 75% longer even when retrofitted onto the Suzuki. I noticed the VX chains are now called either VX2 or VX3. I haven’t found that DID chains with more letters in the model designation i.e. ZVXM last any longer even though they meet higher tensile strength. If I had 180 hp at rear wheel I might buy a consonant or two.
All modern dirt bikes have oring/xring chains. Even moto bikes.
 
I have a 2008 FZ1-S Gen ii. All you need to do is keep the O ring wet. The grease is kept in the links by the O ring and it needs to be oiled. Fit a chain oiler. I used a Scottoiler with Screwfix chainsaw oil. I never have to adjust the chain. I nip it up slightly when replacing a tyre but not by much. I leave it slightly on the slack side. I just replaced the chain and sprockets at 30,000 miles but honestly didn't need to. I just did it as a matter of course along with a major overhaul. PS I don't ride in the rain. That's what kills chains more than anything.
 
The chain is loose on my 2004 FZ1 and needs to be adjusted after 2500 miles. No big deal, but I'm just wondering how good the original chains are on the Gen I.

I bought this bike last year with only 2600 miles on it (to replace my trusty old silver one) and adjusted the chain slack when doing the new owner maintenance, but it's really loose now.

I remember from my motocross days with brand new Yamaha and KTM bikes, the factory chains were trash and had to be frequently adjusted, but once replaced with a DID or other quality chain it was one initial break-in stretch and then I'd almost never have to adjust them any more after that. My 2002 silver FZ was like that, I think I used a Parts Unlimited chain and only had to adjust it once or twice over 20K miles.
 
I bought a DID chain, and j.T rockets little over a year ago , and i've got to change them again. My chain, for some reason, has super tight and loose spots, how that happened. I don't know, and that chain was expensive. I thought JT sprockets were good, I don't know. Now I have to dish out money again , I just don't get it
 
I bought a DID chain, and j.T rockets little over a year ago , and i've got to change them again. My chain, for some reason, has super tight and loose spots, how that happened. I don't know, and that chain was expensive. I thought JT sprockets were good, I don't know. Now I have to dish out money again , I just don't get it
How many miles do you think it’s covered? Wild burn outs, lurid wheelies and jumping city buses can reduce chain life. :)

One place that’s tough to avoid having a tight spot is the master link. I use the DID tool and still end up a smidge too tight most times, and I can notice it being slightly kinked rotating around the rear sprocket.

My theory is I’m more likely to end up with tight spots and kinks if I over tighten. I run mine loose. I can hear when it’s excessive during shifts.

Maybe deep cleaning with WD-40 might help.
 
I have never had a problem with a quality chain from EK, DID or RK stretching. In the past few years I have come across some Bikemaster X-ring chains on eBay for cheap that have proven to be very good. Probably made by one of the big Japanese chain companies. The really good deals on those seem to have dried up, sadly.

I have used JT sprockets many times and they have been just fine. I only use steel sprockets, though.
 
How many miles do you think it’s covered? Wild burn outs, lurid wheelies and jumping city buses can reduce chain life. :)

One place that’s tough to avoid having a tight spot is the master link. I use the DID tool and still end up a smidge too tight most times, and I can notice it being slightly kinked rotating around the rear sprocket.

My theory is I’m more likely to end up with tight spots and kinks if I over tighten. I run mine loose. I can hear when it’s excessive during shifts.

Maybe deep cleaning with WD-40 might help.
I'll try that, I was just about to order new chain and sprokets. Have you or any of you guys ever use a Niche chain?.
 
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