clutch not disegaging

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raincat

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I have 500 miles on my 2012 bike. To leave my house,I have to first drive about 1/2 mile at about 12 mph in first gear. When the engine is cold it idles at about 1200 rpm. I've noticed that if I pull the clutch lever all the way in, the bike continues to drive forward. If Igive it gas, the clutch disengages, however if I come to a stop with the clutch pulled in, it will lug and kill the engine. After the engine warms up, this stops, however, whenever
I crank the engine while in gear, the bike lurches forward for a breif moment.
Is this normal for a new bike that isn't completely broken in? Thanks
 
When you say lurch, do you just mean you can feel it move a bit? If so, thats normal. If you say your bike, while moving, continues to accelerate if the clutch handle is all the way pulled, thats not normal.

Do you have a ton of free play in the clutch?
 
Put it on the centerstand, start it and click it into gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Does the wheel rotate? If so adjust knurled lever so that it doesn't. Sometimes you have to adjust the disengagement point as parts wear in.
 
it just makes a brief movement forward when i start the engine in gear with the clutch lever puilled in. My main concern is when the engine is cold it continues to move the bike forward under a high idle in 1st gear even if I pull the clutch lever in. I can then reve the engine and the clutch will then disengage.
 
check cable free-play.. adjust if necessary

most bike clutches will drag when engine oil is cold, yours just seems to drag too much, if you say the bike is not broken in yet it may be just that or the factory dyno oil.
 
Agree with donoharm, check the freeplay and if its good, what oil is in there? the heavier the grade and the colder the weather, the more drag you will get.
 
I just bought a 0 mile 09 and it does exactly what you're describing.

The slight "clunk" in 1st gear along with the slight jerk forward is typical of Yamaha in my experience. My brother had a 2011 R1 that did this, and I had an 07 FJR that did it too. The FJR was my first experience with it, and I searched all around the FJR boards and it's pretty common.

As for the clutch drag thing - that's not normal. Mine does it too. I've noticed that mine only sticks like that during deceleration with the clutch engaged. If I'm accelerating when I apply the clutch the revs drop instantly. If I'm "engine braking" and apply the clutch, it'll stick until I either downshift (which doesn't work if I'm in first, obviously - and which takes slightly more pressure than normal) OR until I blip the throttle. Sometimes it disengages on its own after a few seconds, but sometimes not.

I'm almost at 500 miles now. At 500 I'm going to get the oil changed and see if that helps. It's still under warranty though so when they change the oil I'm going to mention that to them and if it doesn't fix it I'm going to take it back in. I've read stories of some bikes not getting clutch plates soaked enough from the factory before installation, which caused issues with them, and sometimes Yamaha replaced them under warranty.

I'm going to mention it sooner than later to my dealer so they can't get out of it saying I killed the clutch by not knowing how to ride, etc. or going too far mileage wise so they can say that a clutch is a wear item and that there are too many miles on the bike for them to do anything.
 
Perfectly normal. This goes as far back as the 06 FZ1. I have a 2012 with 900 miles. It did he exact same thing until about 800 miles. It gets better after the first oil change but didn't completely go away until around 800 miles. If you do a search for sticking clutch plates you will see it is quite common and does eventually break in and go away.
 
Evitzee said:
Put it on the centerstand, start it and click it into gear with the clutch lever pulled in. Does the wheel rotate? If so adjust knurled lever so that it doesn't. Sometimes you have to adjust the disengagement point as parts wear in.
Click to expand...

Sometimes they'll still rotate until the motor reaches temp. Try this good test when it's warm...
 
Does the wheel rotate?
Click to expand...

Yes, it does as that is normal. If the clutch cable is adjusted properly, you should have a gap between the lever and the perch about the thickness of a nickel.

Your oil will have an affect on this too as others have said.

Try blipping the throttle just before putting her in gear to break the oil tension on the plates.
 
I just purchased and picked up my 2013 FZ1 last week and its doing he exact same thing as mentioned above!! Its like the clutch is dragging and I only have 200kms on it so far. I'm planning on calling my Yamaha dealer to see what they have to say about the issue. Will keep everyone posted.
 
Once again guys. It's been a known issue when the bike is new since it came out in 2006. It goes away. I have 1200 miles on my 2012 now and the sticking clutch plates problem is totally gone. If you don't believe me just do a search and you will see how far back this goes. If it annoys you too much and you can't downshift easily just blip the throttle with the clutch pulled in to release the plates. If you bring the bike to the dealer they will prob do one of two things. Tell you it is perfectly normal or worse, rip into the clutch or tranny of your brand new bike when it is not necessary. Wait it out for several hundred miles and see if it gets better. It took my bike up to about 700 miles to start feeling normal. Now there is no evidence of it at all and the bike up shifts and down shifts like butter.
 
Kpd1031 said:
Once again guys. It's been a known issue when the bike is new since it came out in 2006. It goes away. I have 1200 miles on my 2012 now and the sticking clutch plates problem is totally gone. If you don't believe me just do a search and you will see how far back this goes. If it annoys you too much and you can't downshift easily just blip the throttle with the clutch pulled in to release the plates. If you bring the bike to the dealer they will prob do one of two things. Tell you it is perfectly normal or worse, rip into the clutch or tranny of your brand new bike when it is not necessary. Wait it out for several hundred miles and see if it gets better. It took my bike up to about 700 miles to start feeling normal. Now there is no evidence of it at all and the bike up shifts and down shifts like butter.
Click to expand...

Or, 3: They could take the bike out and do some hard clutch engagements to burn the clutch plates in some ...

Not suggesting you do that. Rather, just let it wear in normally.
 
I gotta wonder... the people that are bothered by this, is this your first bike? Im not trying to bust your chops, but it seems to me that this is something that someone who has had bikes before would understand is normal if you have made sure that everything is adjusted properly. MC dealers are nortorious for charging you a "setup" fee, but forgetting to do some things properly. A MC is a much more involved and "hands on" vehicle than any cage.

Its normal for the FZ to be in NUETRAL and turn the wheel when its first started. As the oil warms up, the clutch will slowly stop dragging.

When you go to put it in gear, hold the clutch in for a count of 3, then blip the throttle. As the revs come down, snick it into gear.
 
My FZ1 clutch issues resolved.

I as well had similar issues with my clutch not completely disengaging in first. I also had a problem downshifting from 4th to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd. Blipping the throttle before downshifting did help. Anyways I had my 600 mile service completed on Tuesday and had told the service department about the issue. They pulled my clutch plates and soaked them in oil overnight. Said they were not properly saturated from the factory. Since picking up my bike all of the issues were resolved and shifting is smooth as can be. No more sticking!
 
terdog said:
I gotta wonder... the people that are bothered by this, is this your first bike? Im not trying to bust your chops, but it seems to me that this is something that someone who has had bikes before would understand is normal if you have made sure that everything is adjusted properly. MC dealers are nortorious for charging you a "setup" fee, but forgetting to do some things properly. A MC is a much more involved and "hands on" vehicle than any cage.

Its normal for the FZ to be in NUETRAL and turn the wheel when its first started. As the oil warms up, the clutch will slowly stop dragging.

When you go to put it in gear, hold the clutch in for a count of 3, then blip the throttle. As the revs come down, snick it into gear.
Click to expand...

Wasn't my first new. I bought an FJR new and it didn't do this. Also bought a BMW GS new and it didn't do this either.

I'm at around 2800 miles now and mine hasn't done it in a while. Like everyone said, first oil change helped a lot and at 1K miles the issue was gone.
 
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