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Clutch not disengaging fz1n 2009

fz1n2009rara

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Hi everyone

I need some help. Any advice or if you actually know what might be happening and could tell me that would be hugely appreciated.

My fz1n 2009 has an issue with the clutch operation. As the title states it is not disengaging. I've had this issue for a couple of months now and no matter what I do I just don't seem to be able to solve the issue.

So whilst out riding my motorbike the clutch cable kept going slack (ever so slightly at first) so I would just turn the nut at the bar end ever so slightly and it would kind of remedy itself. Until a few weeks ago and my clutch cable snapped so I thought no big deal I'll just replace it. Which I did but that kept going slack aswell. Now it's at a point that I go out for a ride and I need to make big adjustments on the bar end nut to stop my bike from stalling as the clutch isn't disengaging and wants to keep moving even though the clutch lever is pulled in.

I've trouble shooted this and thought that my clutch plates and basket might be faulty so I've taken off the casing replaced my clutch plates and springs and filed out the notches on my clutch basket. I put it all back together in the correct manner, plates all the right way, nuts and bolts all tightened to spec. Casing on correctly. And then I tightened my clutch cable.

I found a biting point. Good amount of free play on the lever. It was clicking into neutral from 1st with ease. Great I thought this has solved my problem. I took the bike for a test ride and 2-3 minutes in my cable slackened off. OK I thought, new plates no big deal. So I tightened it. But then it kept doing it and through out the test ride I had to keep tightening my cable again and again. So replacing the plates and springs and filing the notches has done nothing to solve my problem.
Does anybody think the actuator arm is faulty?
Or could it be something else?
Thanks in advance for anyone who takes the time to read this and reply ✌️
 

Are you thinking the collar on item one is slipping in item 25? If it were your lever arm item 26 would be in a different position. (maybe not if there is a stop for the arm)

OEM clutch cable? Do the Gen 2 cables have two locations to adjust play? You may need to take some play out of the mid cable adjuster.

You seem to have covered most of my suggestions.
 
Hi,
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, I'm am suggesting that. Or bearing 4 or bearing 6 has failed? It's possible that what your suggesting is happening because the dot had moved away from the triangle!! Only by a couple of millimetres but enough to notice.

It's not an OEM clutch cable. But its a mid price range cable designed to fit my motorbike. The one previous to me changing it wasn't either but that worked for just under 2 years before tightening it broke it at the lever end.

They do have 2 locations to adjust play yes. One at the lever and one under the tank. I've used the mid cable adjustment to take play out of the cable. It would seem that I use all the play in the cable up with in an hour!! I constantly have to keep adjusting it at both points to gain any kind of disengagement in my clutch. Which isn't right. Previous to this problem I went a whole year without adjusting my clutch cable once. Maybe a couple of notches at one point.

If it's not something between the lever and clutch. What would your opinion be about it being something beyond the clutch. Like something in the transmission?
 
The cable snapping suggests it's a cable issue as opposed to internal clutch components.
All the replaced components also suggest internal is ok.

Bearing failure on vertical shaft would likely make pulling in the clutch more difficult. With a fresh cable how does clutch action feel?

Is item 20 in place?

The only thing that comes to mind is the mid cable adjuster is closing (threading in). Usually there's a lock nut. You've used up all the adjustment?

You need a robot to pull the lever repeatedly while you watch the cable action.
 
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Related?
 
The clutch action feels good with a fresh cable for 5 minutes then it'll need tightening lol and the bike seems nice for 5 minutes which made me think it wasn't anything more internal. I didn't get any awkward noises or anything like that.

Item 20 is in place yes. All tightened to spec. The only thing that may also not be helping is I did notice some groves along the spring barrels whilst reinstalling the springs and hub. That might not be helping with there functionality if they are catching!! I'll be sure to file those out when I next get in there.

Yeah, I've used up all the adjustment. Or pretty close anyhow. The lock nut is in place. And sercure.

My next steps will have to be, replace the cable again. Remove the casing and hub and file out the notches on the barrels the springs sit on. And then your suggestion about the push rod being pushed back is a great shout. I shall take the arm off the top of the actuator rod and and turn it until I meet resistance. Then replace the arm. When you think about it it makes sense that the rod is being pushed back whilst trying to put the casing on. And you would think then that the rod is not being pulled out enough to create the disengagement of my clutch. This has renewed my hope.

Thank you for your time.

I'll report back here after my efforts. It won't be for a few days yet. Look out for a notification ✌️
 
Hiya mate.

Just wanted to send you a message to say thanks for your replies. I've got the bike sorted. It was a combination of dry clutch plates and the cable. The clutch plates stated on the box to just dip them in oil. But they needed soaking over night. And the clutch cable stated it was already lubricated but needed extensive lubrication. All sorted now. I'm so happy to be back on the road.

Kind regards

Tim.
 
Hiya mate.

Just wanted to send you a message to say thanks for your replies. I've got the bike sorted. It was a combination of dry clutch plates and the cable. The clutch plates stated on the box to just dip them in oil. But they needed soaking over night. And the clutch cable stated it was already lubricated but needed extensive lubrication. All sorted now. I'm so happy to be back on the road.

Kind regards

Tim.
Hi mate. So the problem was the just dry plates and cable? I was reading this thinking it's going to be my problem solver because it sounded like what mine was doing. I've done the filing, new clutch back etc. Put it together today and have 2 or 3 inches of free play on the cable. Unless it's the wrong cable it must be how I've mounted the case/push rod etc. Brand new soaked plates and the new cable i out on and the bike was rideable. Any ideas ? Cheers
 
Hi mate. So the problem was the just dry plates and cable? I was reading this thinking it's going to be my problem solver because it sounded like what mine was doing. I've done the filing, new clutch back etc. Put it together today and have 2 or 3 inches of free play on the cable. Unless it's the wrong cable it must be how I've mounted the case/push rod etc. Brand new soaked plates and the new cable i out on and the bike was rideable. Any ideas ? Cheers
Hiya.
Yes the problem was just dry clutch plates and a clutch cable not lubricated enough (even though it stated it was lubricated on the packaging) 2-3 inches of free play sounds alot. That might be the wrong cable!!?!!
The plates must be soaked over night.
Does the dot and triangle line up on the actuator arm?
Are you routing the cable properly? There are a couple of connectors that the cable will route through.
Try adjusting the slack on the middle adjustment screw under the tank?
Let me know if you got it sorted?
Sorry for the late reply I read your message and then forgot toreply myself!!!

Tim.
 
No worries mate. All sorted now. Basically the old clutch pack came out. It had some different sized fibre plates in it and was missing item #2 which is a spring plate which was weird. Installed new oem clutch pack and spring plate after a 24 hr soak also put 2 more 4 mm holes in the hub for more oil flow. Put it all back together and the cable ended up being the wrong one which was given to me with the bike. Installed an Oem cable and shes smooth as. Gearbox is smoother. Clutch pull is way smoother. Also done the oil pump chain while I was in there and it seems more quiet. It was a funny little project as I'm mechanically minded and have fully rebuilt plenty of dirt bikes but the main thing was missing and wrong parts that gave me grief.

Cheers
 
No worries mate. All sorted now. Basically the old clutch pack came out. It had some different sized fibre plates in it and was missing item #2 which is a spring plate which was weird. Installed new oem clutch pack and spring plate after a 24 hr soak also put 2 more 4 mm holes in the hub for more oil flow. Put it all back together and the cable ended up being the wrong one which was given to me with the bike. Installed an Oem cable and shes smooth as. Gearbox is smoother. Clutch pull is way smoother. Also done the oil pump chain while I was in there and it seems more quiet. It was a funny little project as I'm mechanically minded and have fully rebuilt plenty of dirt bikes but the main thing was missing and wrong parts that gave me grief.

Cheers
That's great news. I'm really happy to read she's all sorted and ridding smooth. Safe miles ✌️
 
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