Coolant leak and sludge at bottom of engine

[jimco]

When I had the same weeping issue I drained the coolant and oil, removed the front wheel. Then lifted the front end of the bike to about a 45 degree angle with the ground. I lifted the front of the bike with ratchet and cam lock straps. Then placed solid supports to the ground under the bike as a backup to the straps.

I could then sit on the garage floor to work. This worked really well. As an additional bonus, when I dropped things rather than falling into the depths of the engine, the parts fell on the floor

 

[Isleoman]

Based on all the input …….this issue seems more common than I thought.

DeWoodys Garage Part 7 from Youtube if you want to see it done under good lighting, calm clear instructions, almost like being in a lab.

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

1. Getting the pump all the way back through the hole.
2. Putting the sprocket bolt back into the pump (through much trial and error I found it was easiest to get it started by hand - there is just enough room). Don't forget the spacer for the bolt... I almost did. Saw it on the floor after I'd put the pump in.
3. Also putting the headers back on - they didn't seem to want to fit easily! A bit of brute force required.
Otherwise, not too bad. I printed the relevant workshop manual pages and parts reference images - they give a more detailed view of each assembly.

Thanks for that, all useful tips!

 

[Isleoman]

"When the weeping begins” (Title of Country & Western Song). does coolant mix with the oil?

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

It shouldn't, that's why they created vent in the bottom of the sump, a bit of clever design so the oil retains its integrity

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

Started working through the list of jobs, first up was the rear brake pads, refreshingly easy compared to car ones, especially as the Clymer manual gave a useful tip on how to put the tension springy clip thing back in.



Next was to repair the RH heated grips, the wiring had broken near where it enters the grip (obvious place with the throttle movement) so soldered in a female bayonet connector to rejoin the broken one and support the other one.

Next was a new Air Filter, love the feature on the FZ that yo can undo the front of the tank and prop it up like a car bonnet to either work underneath or disconnect everything before removing.



The air filter was a bit manky!



One thing I did notice is that a previous owner seems to have been a bit happy with the snippers, will have to sit down with the wiring diagram and figure out what has been cut!



I did try and change the spark plugs, but even my slim tool wouldn't fit, so have had to order the special one, which is annoying!

Next is to stop procrastinating and get on with the tear-down for the water pump fix, first up will be fluid drain and exhaust off

 

[Isleoman]

I can't open those links, it's probably due to privacy settings I'm using in my browser (s). I tried DuckDuckGo, Brave and Safari and couldn't get them to open.

I had a similar problem recently when I tried to link to some pics i have stored on imgur.com. I could see the pics in the thread as I created it , but once posted could no longer see the pic. In the end i used this websites "attach files" button.

Is your AIS removed and did you try the spark plug removal tool that came with the bike's tool kit. I find that tool and a ratcheting closed end wrench capturing the top of the tool is the fastest easiest method. Nothing's easy with the AIS still in place.

 

[jimco]

I had problems with the links, too. I copied, pasted then trimmed the link to:

Link

I'll post this now and check after posting to see if it works and edit if it doesn't.

The way I removed my spark plugs was with the articulated tool in the stock tool kit. It's still a pain, though.

Well, it didn't work correctly brought up a search page with a link to the site Jeremy referenced.

Let's try this:

new link

The link directly above get to the correct spot (I think).

 

[Isleoman]

Thank you. I could get there using the "new link” you posted

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

Apologies, that'll teach me to be in a hurry and not checking the post!
I have fixed the links now
I didn't get the tool kit with my bike so have ordered the Yamaha spark plug tool for it
One thing I found is that the no.1 cap/tube is almost impossible to remove from the hole as there is not enough clearance above it, I didn't want to push things too hard but I think I will need to find a route that I can pull it up through the wiring and bits and pieces above it.

I have whipped the tank off so at least I have an alternative route to 2 and 3 - they do look like pigs to get to! (why or why didn't I stick to my aim of getting another air-cooled bike!!)

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

Slow progress, managed to get the exhaust header nuts undone with only snapping one stud, which I'll take as a win, however no.s 2 and 3 headers would not move, even with the application of moderate violence over a prolonged time.
I put a question on the UK Fazers Facebook page and someone suggested putting sideways force on them to help release, so used a spring compressor and ping! They dropped off nicely.

Whilst pondering on the problem I swapped the spark plugs, the old ones had huge gaps but weren't too bad but don't think they've been changed in a while

Now the exhaust is off I need to get the rear mounting bracket repaired as it fell off with rot and look at the EXUP as I don't think it was working very well:

I have also filled the chips and holes on the fairing, added some carbon fibre strengthening around the mounting points and tidied up the mounting brackets ready for painting.
Lots going on, but it has been too cold to spend enough time in the garage.
Hoping I can get the sump dropped and the water pump out this weekend

 

[Isleoman]

I’m guessing the goop on your EXUP is due to the weeping? Snapped header bolt would have me weeping. Had it happen on my old Suzuki. Spring compressors are a versatile tool. Use some anti-seeze on the replacement plug’s threads.

Corrosion seems rampant in the UK.

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

Yes, 20 years of moist salty spray has caused a lot of grot down there, I think I will need a new disc where the cables attach as a chunk has rotted away and the bolts holding the valve in have turned to dust so decided not to try and remove them until I can get the Exhaust on the bench and apply plus gas and heat.
I hope I can get the snapped stud out with heat and cutting a screwdriver slot in the end

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

After a bit of delay I have finally managed to drill and tap the exhaust stud.
Unfortunately 2 of the bolts snapped on the EXUP valve, I successfully drilled out the bolts and retapped the first hole...was just about finished tapping the second and the tap snapped! Argh! I ordered a broken tap removal tool from amazon, but that was made of chocolate and snapped too... Will drill a hole in the tap and see if I can use my screw extractor to unscrew it and preserve the thread.

Decided to lie the bike down to do the water pump, I have an axle stand under the top tube and lots of soft stuff on the floor under it. Will actually start work on the water pump this week!

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

This week's time-wasting frustration has been the coolant pipes that I forgot to remove before I lay the bike down, one of the jubilee clips on the front pipe had been rounded off and was a b!tch to get to, so ended up dremelling it off and then realised that I had to stand the bike back up to remove the pipe on the Left hand side that goes into the pump, again the jubilee clip put up a fight then the allen bolt that held the pipe in was full of muck and solid, so lots of Gunk, poking around and a manual impact driver I managed to get it undone without damaging the head.
Whilst the bike was upright I gently tapped the pump loose, laid it back down and then was able to free it from the drive train (without removing the clutch, first bit of good news on this job!)
Anyway, behold the Pump is free! Tomorrow night I will crack on with the replacement of the seals and bearing

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

She's still fighting, took about 10 mins to get the pump apart then 3 hours to get the mechanical seal, oil seal and bearing out!

They were all borked so definitely worth doing the job, the new seals went in ok, but I bought the wrong oil seal so had to wait 3 days for that, but had plenty of other stuff to do

It all went back together ok, then had the fun of getting it back in... I got it out without removing the clutch, but after fiddling I got the chain back on the sprocket ok - phew!
It was then a case of reinstalling the chain guard and oil feed pipes, but then realised I was missing 2 of the O rings for the main coolant pipe into the pump, so another 2 day wait (and £14!) Before I could fit the final part

So, tonight I fitted the feed pipe and the sump, and she is back on her wheels, yay!

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

In parallel to the above I have been trying to sort the exhaust, the EXUP valve is seized and in trying to remove it I snapped 2 bolts... drilled them out and re-tapped them... was just doing the final couple of turns on the second hole and the blooming tap snapped!!
It is very difficult to drill out, so am drilling a hole next to it and will extend the hole in the valve mount to suit.
At the same time the rear mounting bracket has rusted off, so a mate of my son will make a new bracket and weld it on for me.
In the meantime I still haven't unveiled the EXUP so trying to source a secondhand one

I have also set up a spray booth ready to paint the new fairing and ancillaries

 

[Isleoman]

Congrats on getting it all back together. Would you remove the clutch if you were going to do it again? I hate even thinking about this repair.

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

Thanks!, no I would leave the clutch, it just takes a bit of a knack to get the chain back on, but it isn't that difficult.
The actual job is quite straightforward if you follow the manual and are methodical, it is just all the hassle of the age/dirt/rust making removing the ancillaries so difficult and time consuming and adding new jobs/expense you weren't expecting

 

[Jeremy Atkins]

Another spurt of activity and we are making progress!
Got the exhaust back with its new bracket welded on and made the decision I was going to re-assemble with the EXUP valve still inop for now, that's a problem to sort once I get everything else done!
So, managed to get the exhaust back on and the Radiator and hoses done as well

I decided to fit a new fuel tap as the old one was leaking, but it didn't come with the 2 fibre washers to seal the mounting screws, so ordered them, so all I need to do now is fit the tank, fill with coolant, connect the battery and press the starter.....

As my Fairing is still being painted I have temporarily fitted the old indicators and a single LED headlight to make it road legal to test and (hopefully!) enjoy it whilst I finish the painting and laquering. looks a bit odd/daft but it works well



My son has moved home so he is now using the XJ again and it would be good to get out on some rides with him, so double incentive to get it done - it feels like it has taken ages!