FI Issue FZ1 Gen II

FastRnu2

FastRnu2

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I don’t know if any of you have experienced this or not, but I figure maybe one of you can come up with an answer to my FI dilemma.

I purchased my 09 FZ1 on Halloween night of 09. I picked it up the next morning. The bike ran okay on the way home. Since I had no experience of the Gen II FZ1 so everything seemed normal. I rode it back and forth to work for about a month and noticed that it had a slight hesitation down low and a rather obnoxious flat spot anytime you closed the throttle and then reopened it. This was really noticeable around town and even scary when rounding a corner. If you dropped the throttle heading into a corner it would hesitate abruptly exiting. This would cause such a jerk I though the tire would break loose mid corner.

I purchased a PCIII, Akrapovic slip on, and K&N filter. I downloaded the PCIII calibration from their website for an FZ1 with slip on & filter upgrade. I installed all three on the same day with the help of my buddy. The bike ran pretty much the same as above and I learned to drive around the flat spot & hesitation the best I could.

One day I was riding home thinking about what I could do to the calibration to fix these issues. Aside from a full on dyno session, I figured maybe I would download the acceleration pump software from Dyno Jet, maybe a different calibration, just thinking, just wondering.

Three weeks ago, my usual ride to work started off as normal as ever. Gear up, roll the bike out, start, and warm it up a little while putting on earplugs and helmet. Hop on and start the commute. The bike is running totally different. Smooth as silk, no hesitation, no flat spot, absolutely perfect. A caged animal with the door left unlocked. It was awesome!

I talked to some of my buddies at work, the computer guys, and they seemed to think it was a sensor issue or connector issue. Since firmware and software can’t really change on it’s own they felt it must be mechanical.

With the bike still running perfect all week, I pulled it apart on the weekend and disconnected the PCIII and slathered some dielectric grease on both connectors. The bike is still running like a raped ape so I don’t want to mess with anything else. On of the guy said the TPS, because of the flat spot when the throttle was closed and then reopened, could be the culprit.

I don’t want to take it to the stealer, I mean dealer, because I’m not confident in their ability to diagnose the problem. I don’t know if they can even test for sensor failure or not. I know you can do diagnostics on cars through the OBD port but I don’t think bikes have these yet. Or do they?

Any thoughts guys? I’m at a loss here. :confused:
 
I was kinda wondering if you needed Ivan's FCE, but then it looks like you're happy with the bike now, if I understand correctly.

So, don't no anything, that's what I'd do. As long as my bike is running like a freakin rocket, and all feels great, I just ride.

Seriously. My engine light's been on for like 28k miles, codes 14 and 20 are popping up all the time. Totally ignore it because the bike is telling me all is perfect.

I have all mods and then some. Best street bike ever owned, without question.

I should add that I have the 06 bought new in oct 07 with just short of 53,000 all twistie miles. The bike has never run stronger or smoother than right now. All I've done was change oil/filter and plugs (once)
 
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Most likely it's not a sensor falure, or you would get a code. But then there are two types of falures. If the sensor is not within it's window of operation and if it's working slow or giving worng info, but with in it's operating window.

I too as thinking about the FCE, but as you said. Now it's working fine. Could have been just a freak glitch. Connector problem, or the new software not working with the ECU.

If it's working.. don't fix it.

But if it acts up again. You can always check of the sensors the old way by back probing. But you may also check out the adjustment on the TPS.

Good luck
 
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Thanks guys. It's running so good right now that I don't want to touch anything. But if it does act up I want to be prepared to either fix it myself or take it in. It is still under warranty.

Thanks again guys, I will keep you posted if the demons rear their ugly heads again.:tup:
 
Next time it acts up, get it into diagnostics mode.

1) Turn key to off
2) Turn ignition kill switch to run
3) Hold the select and reset button at the same time
4) Turn the key to run
5) Continue to hold the two buttons and count to about 10 at this point the display will show "d1"
6) Release the two buttons
7) Repress both buttons for 2 sec and the display will show d:01_____17

The 17 that I get, can be anything from 15-18. This is the throttle position reading. As you S L O W L Y roll on the throttle, the number on the dash has to roll smoothly up to between 95 and 100 at WOT

If you get any jumping or holes in the numbers the TPS is the issue and must be repaired.

Here is all of the codes that I have found as you scan thru them.

01 - Throttle position sensor signal
02 - Atmospheric pressure Displays the atmospheric
03 - Intake air pressure Displays the cylinder-#1
05 - Intake air temperature Displays the intake air temperature.
06 - Coolant temperature Displays the coolant temperature.
07 - Vehicle speed pulse 0–999 Check that the number
08 - Lean angle sensor Remove the lean angle
09 - Fuel system voltage
20 - Sidestand switch Set ON/OFF the sidestand
21 - Neutral switch Set ON/OFF the neutral
30 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#1 ignition
31 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#2 ignition
32 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#3 ignition
33 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#4 ignition
36 - Injector #1 Actuates the injector #1 five
37 - Injector #2 Actuates the injector #2 five
38 - Injector #3 Actuates the injector #3 five
39 - Injector #4 Actuates the injector #4 five
48 - Air induction system solenoid
50 - Fuel injection system relay Actuates the fuel injection
51 - Radiator fan motor relay Actuates the radiator fan
52 - Headlight relay Actuates the headlight relay
53 - Exup servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
56 - Sub-throttle servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
60 - EEPROM fault cylinder No
61 - Malfunction history code
62 - Malfunction history code
63 - Malfunction code reinstate

And here are the ECU error codes

11 - Cylinder identification sensor
12 - Crankshaft position sensor
13 - Intake air pressure sensor
14 - Intake air pressure sensor hose line
15 - Throttle position sensor (open or short circuit)
16 - Throttle position sensor (stuck)
17 - EXUP servo motor potention circuit
18 - EXUP servo motor (stuck)
19 - Sidestand switch (open circuit in the
20 - Intake air pressure sensor or atmospheric
21 - Coolant temperature sensor
22 - Intake air temperature sensor
23 - Atmospheric pressure sensor
24 - O2 sensor No normal signal is received from the O2 sensor.
30 - Lean angle sensor (latch up detected)
33 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil
34 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil
35 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil
36 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil
39 - Injector (open circuit)
41 - Lean angle sensor (open or short-circuit)
42 - Speed sensor No normal signals are received from the speed sensor.
43 - Fuel system voltage (monitoring voltage)
44 - Error in writing the amount of CO adjustment
46 - Vehicle system power supply
47 - Sub-throttle servo motor potention (open
48 - Monitor the operation of the sensors and
48 - Sub-throttle servo motor (lock)
50 - ECU internal malfunction (memory check error)

Hope this helps

AW
 
scout said:
I was kinda wondering if you needed Ivan's FCE, but then it looks like you're happy with the bike now, if I understand correctly.

So, don't no anything, that's what I'd do. As long as my bike is running like a freakin rocket, and all feels great, I just ride.

Seriously. My engine light's been on for like 28k miles, codes 14 and 20 are popping up all the time. Totally ignore it because the bike is telling me all is perfect.

I have all mods and then some. Best street bike ever owned, without question.

I should add that I have the 06 bought new in oct 07 with just short of 53,000 all twistie miles. The bike has never run stronger or smoother than right now. All I've done was change oil/filter and plugs (once)
Click to expand...

14 and 20 could be an issue with the FCE. You may be running on a backup Alpha-N map and at this point in limp home mode. It has everything to do with how Yamaha deals with codes within the code.

This would be fairly easy to test for if it's possible to disconnect the MAP sensor. If you kill the MAP sensor and the bike goes butt fat, then there is no backup Alpha-N map. If with the MAP disconnected the bike runs reasonable, then the is in fact a back-up mode.

AW
 
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You can't expect any dealer to fix a problem that isn't there when you take a machine to him. If you've even been a service tech yo know how frustrating it is to try to duplicate a symptom that isn't there when you are diagnosing. Wait till the problem surfaces, if it ever does again, then take it in. Hopefully your dealer won't give you crap about your non-OEM parts.
 
Seriously. My engine light's been on for like 28k miles, codes 14 and 20 are popping up all the time. Totally ignore it because the bike is telling me all is perfect.
Click to expand...
This was an ongoing discussion on the other forum. The one that Copperdog was looking at the TPS, since he found a tech bulletin for the R1 TPS.

Having experienced the snatch, eliminating it with the FCE, having both 14 and 20 pop up intermittently, I feel confident in saying the following:

Your code 20 is due to a bad connection in one of the STOCK wiring connections. One you do not alter when installing the FCE, but probably disturbed while pulling on the wiring to install the goodies. If you feel so inclined, dielectric grease your stock connectors, maybe throw some rubber bands or twist ties on them so they do not jostle around, and you should see the code 20 go away.

:)
 
Hayaku said:
This was an ongoing discussion on the other forum. The one that Copperdog was looking at the TPS, since he found a tech bulletin for the R1 TPS.

Having experienced the snatch, eliminating it with the FCE, having both 14 and 20 pop up intermittently, I feel confident in saying the following:

Your code 20 is due to a bad connection in one of the STOCK wiring connections. One you do not alter when installing the FCE, but probably disturbed while pulling on the wiring to install the goodies. If you feel so inclined, dielectric grease your stock connectors, maybe throw some rubber bands or twist ties on them so they do not jostle around, and you should see the code 20 go away.

:)
Click to expand...

Good call on the dielectric grease. I use it on every electrical connector that I unplug. Including the boots of the spark plug wires. It prevents voltage leak, lubes the terminals and seals, plus keeps the water/corrosion away. It's cheap insurance.

I even put a dab on my cell phone battery connection because my phone would shut off every time I snapped it closed. It hasn't done it since.:)
 
Curious so I'm reviving this thread

whittlebeast said:
Here is all of the codes that I have found as you scan thru them.

36 - Injector #1 Actuates the injector #1 five
37 - Injector #2 Actuates the injector #2 five
38 - Injector #3 Actuates the injector #3 five
39 - Injector #4 Actuates the injector #4 five

Is there any adjustment here? On my FJR you can increase and decrease lean to rich condition. In the EU you just enter the diag mode where you change it, In USA you have to install a jumper wire to access it then adjust in the diag mode. Do you know what this sequence of parameters do?

To find out more about how it works with FJR's google "barbarian jumper wire"
It has been found to be effective for power gains and to correct lean condition after mods on 1 gen and 2 gen FJRs.

Here is a link to this info. These clicky's don't work but they do in the link. The info is toward the bottom of the page.

http://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=8660

Barbarian Jumper Mod / CO Setting:
Barbarian Jumper Mod (allows fuel injector mapping adjustment/CO setting changes)

Jon's excellent BJM (Barbarian Jumper Modification) pictoral is found here: Clicky

Typically '06 and '07's are factory set to: 5, 18, 18, 21,
and at least two 2008's are reported to be factory set at: 10,10,10,10. Thread discussion: Clicky

* NOTE: link shows instructions for '03 model, but for Gen II (2006-2007) --
-- the general instructions are the same.
-- just remove the white plug out of 25, move the wire from 23 to 25, and put the white plug in 23 Clicky
Click to expand...
 
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Sorry, but what is FCE?

Hayaku said:
This was an ongoing discussion on the other forum. The one that Copperdog was looking at the TPS, since he found a tech bulletin for the R1 TPS.

Having experienced the snatch, eliminating it with the FCE, having both 14 and 20 pop up intermittently, I feel confident in saying the following:

Your code 20 is due to a bad connection in one of the STOCK wiring connections. One you do not alter when installing the FCE, but probably disturbed while pulling on the wiring to install the goodies. If you feel so inclined, dielectric grease your stock connectors, maybe throw some rubber bands or twist ties on them so they do not jostle around, and you should see the code 20 go away.

:)
Click to expand...

FastRnu2 said:
Good call on the dielectric grease. I use it on every electrical connector that I unplug. Including the boots of the spark plug wires. It prevents voltage leak, lubes the terminals and seals, plus keeps the water/corrosion away. It's cheap insurance.

I even put a dab on my cell phone battery connection because my phone would shut off every time I snapped it closed. It hasn't done it since.:)
Click to expand...


Okay, this might be a really dumb question, but I've seen several people in this thread speak about Ivan's FCE fix. What is it?

Thanks
 
Blavenia said:
Okay, this might be a really dumb question, but I've seen several people in this thread speak about Ivan's FCE fix. What is it?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Ivan's Fuel Cut Eliminator (FCE) is an electronic device that you install in line with some of the ECU wiring. Basically gets rid of the throttle snatch (particularly on the '06 model). Basically keeps the injectors going even when you get off the gas so that when you get back on the gas the transition is much smoother. You can read a lengthier and more technical explanation here.
 
Blavenia said:
Would this be an improvement on the 2007 or only the 06?
Click to expand...

gtbigup01 said:
Does your 07 have the throttle issue as well? I thought Yamaha revised/remapped that for 07+
Click to expand...

The throttle snatch is most noticeable in the '06. However, it still exists on the '07 and on bikes, but you can probably live with it. One thing you will notice with the FCE is the nice little boost in mid-range power and that applies no matter the year since it gets those secondary throttles opened sooner. From Ivan's site:

stkvsfce.gif
 
Yeah, my 07 has a minor hiccup coming back on the throttle, but it's certainly not something I'd spend $200 to remedy.

It's barely there, but it does exist.

b
 
Hey, I've done this with the diagnostic mode. TPS is fine on mine, and the
numbers started at 17, but only went smoothly up to 92.
Shouldn't 100% throttle be the number 100? I don't get why it starts at
17 either.


whittlebeast said:
Next time it acts up, get it into diagnostics mode.

1) Turn key to off
2) Turn ignition kill switch to run
3) Hold the select and reset button at the same time
4) Turn the key to run
5) Continue to hold the two buttons and count to about 10 at this point the display will show "d1"
6) Release the two buttons
7) Repress both buttons for 2 sec and the display will show d:01_____17

The 17 that I get, can be anything from 15-18. This is the throttle position reading. As you S L O W L Y roll on the throttle, the number on the dash has to roll smoothly up to between 95 and 100 at WOT

If you get any jumping or holes in the numbers the TPS is the issue and must be repaired.

Here is all of the codes that I have found as you scan thru them.

01 - Throttle position sensor signal
02 - Atmospheric pressure Displays the atmospheric
03 - Intake air pressure Displays the cylinder-#1
05 - Intake air temperature Displays the intake air temperature.
06 - Coolant temperature Displays the coolant temperature.
07 - Vehicle speed pulse 0–999 Check that the number
08 - Lean angle sensor Remove the lean angle
09 - Fuel system voltage
20 - Sidestand switch Set ON/OFF the sidestand
21 - Neutral switch Set ON/OFF the neutral
30 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#1 ignition
31 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#2 ignition
32 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#3 ignition
33 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil Actuates the cylinder-#4 ignition
36 - Injector #1 Actuates the injector #1 five
37 - Injector #2 Actuates the injector #2 five
38 - Injector #3 Actuates the injector #3 five
39 - Injector #4 Actuates the injector #4 five
48 - Air induction system solenoid
50 - Fuel injection system relay Actuates the fuel injection
51 - Radiator fan motor relay Actuates the radiator fan
52 - Headlight relay Actuates the headlight relay
53 - Exup servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
56 - Sub-throttle servo motor Actuate the servo motor turns
60 - EEPROM fault cylinder No
61 - Malfunction history code
62 - Malfunction history code
63 - Malfunction code reinstate

And here are the ECU error codes

11 - Cylinder identification sensor
12 - Crankshaft position sensor
13 - Intake air pressure sensor
14 - Intake air pressure sensor hose line
15 - Throttle position sensor (open or short circuit)
16 - Throttle position sensor (stuck)
17 - EXUP servo motor potention circuit
18 - EXUP servo motor (stuck)
19 - Sidestand switch (open circuit in the
20 - Intake air pressure sensor or atmospheric
21 - Coolant temperature sensor
22 - Intake air temperature sensor
23 - Atmospheric pressure sensor
24 - O2 sensor No normal signal is received from the O2 sensor.
30 - Lean angle sensor (latch up detected)
33 - Cylinder-#1 ignition coil
34 - Cylinder-#2 ignition coil
35 - Cylinder-#3 ignition coil
36 - Cylinder-#4 ignition coil
39 - Injector (open circuit)
41 - Lean angle sensor (open or short-circuit)
42 - Speed sensor No normal signals are received from the speed sensor.
43 - Fuel system voltage (monitoring voltage)
44 - Error in writing the amount of CO adjustment
46 - Vehicle system power supply
47 - Sub-throttle servo motor potention (open
48 - Monitor the operation of the sensors and
48 - Sub-throttle servo motor (lock)
50 - ECU internal malfunction (memory check error)

Hope this helps

AW
Click to expand...
 
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