Fitting crash bungs

[bowkite]

Just bought some of these off ebay. Does anyone know how much torque i need to apply to tighten up the bolts which replace the engine/frame bolts.

Im also having trouble loosening up the frame bolts, these have an 8mm allen head on them. Also i'm worriedwhen i take the frame bolts out the engine will move or shift. Any advice?

 

[Rusty]

As long as you remove one bolt at a time, there should be no danger of the engine moving. The bolts aren't particularly tight and should be torqued up to 45Nm.

Where in the UK are you?

 

[scout]

I snugged up shoguns, then checked them once a week for a few weeks. They needed some adjustment, then didn't need anything else. So not much pressure is needed.

 

[bowkite]

As long as you remove one bolt at a time, there should be no danger of the engine moving. The bolts aren't particularly tight and should be torqued up to 45Nm.

Where in the UK are you?

I'm in Lancashire. Can't seem to shift the bolts at the moment, these things are tight. Might need a longer wrench to get more leverage. Will i need to add any thread lock to the bolts.

 

[Gohot229]

Go ahead and spring for four ny-lock nuts and it should be good. Also the bolts should at least be grade 5 or better yet grade 8..... but with ny-locks their supposed to only be used once as the crimp and nylon insert become inefective after once removed. This makes locktite un-needed.

 

[Gohot229]

I'm in Lancashire. Can't seem to shift the bolts at the moment, these things are tight. Might need a longer wrench to get more leverage. Will i need to add any thread lock to the bolts.

You may be dealing with electrolisis on the aluminum to steel surfaces, and the oxidation 'freezing' the bolt. Try PB Blaster, it's a liquid wrench kind of juice, and has ultra small molecules thus it penetrates much deeper and much quicker. If they seem like they still wont come out, try a air gun on a LOW air setting, the kick/jarring may break the corrosion in tandom with the PB Blaster penetrant. Good luck, and hoping your bolts dont brake.

 

[scout]

I'm in Lancashire. Can't seem to shift the bolts at the moment, these things are tight. Might need a longer wrench to get more leverage. Will i need to add any thread lock to the bolts.

Can't remember, are these allen bolts? I think so. I think I used a large set of pliers on the allen tool to get the old ones out. I mean a big plier, like about 20 inches long.

Lock tight is keeping it in there. I don't think I put loc tight on the sliders.

 

[scout]

Go ahead and spring for four ny-lock nuts and it should be good. Also the bolts should at least be grade 5 or better yet grade 8..... but with ny-locks their supposed to only be used once as the crimp and nylon insert become inefective after once removed. This makes locktite un-needed.

If he's doing the engine sliders, I think they bolt directly to the engine.

 

[Hail]

The thing that worried me is that the Graves frame sliders stated they required less torque that the factory torque settings for that same bolt. I went with Graves torque setting and check the torque ever few weeks because I am paranoid.

 

[bowkite]

If he's doing the engine sliders, I think they bolt directly to the engine.

Yeah the bolts go directly through the frame into the engine, no nuts are needed. Its an 8mm allen head on the m10 bolts and i have a full fairing on there.

I don't want to risk using any big pliers in fear of scratching the paintwork.

I think i'll have to get some drive hex sets for the torque wrench. I'll post a image Tuesday if you can do it on this forum.

 

[scout]

Yeah the bolts go directly through the frame into the engine, no nuts are needed. Its an 8mm allen head on the m10 bolts and i have a full fairing on there.

I don't want to risk using any big pliers in fear of scratching the paintwork.

I think i'll have to get some drive hex sets for the torque wrench. I'll post a image Tuesday if you can do it on this forum.

Got it. The problem you'll have with the socket allen drive is getting on with a long enough working end to reach down the slider. My socket allens heads, the part that attaches to the ratchet, are too fat to get inside the slider to reach the freakin bolt.

But I did have a set of long regular allen wrenches that worked with the pliers.

Pain in the butt thing, for sure. Anyway, I use those sliders at least a couple times a ride to stretch the legs. Once you get them in there, you'll like em.

 

[bowkite]

Well i've purchased a slightly longer wrench and got an extention for the allen bit which now clears the fairing. Managed to loosen up the bolt on one side, so looks good for now. Noticed though the bracket for the fairing is going to turn when i tighten the m10 bolt up whgich might be an issue aligning the bracket to the fairing.

 

[scout]

thanks for the photo, as I couldn't remember where that fairing goes. Don't run that. geez, I hope the slider CAN work with the fairing. If I'm looking at the right bolt, looks like the fairing may have to be cut?

 

[Oldschool]

no cutting

There is no need to cut the fairing. Doing so would weaken an already narrow part of the fairing. They sell offset sliders for the faired FZ, like so:

 

[bowkite]

There is no need to cut the fairing. Doing so would weaken an already narrow part of the fairing. They sell offset sliders for the faired FZ, like so:

Those are the official Yamaha crash protectors and cost a fortune more than twice what i paid for the third party ones i purchased.

I dont think i'll have to modify the fairing the protectors with the spacers should just clear the fairing just!!!

 

[bowkite]

Managed to get the bungs on. Had a problem with the right hand side as the bung is slightly touching the fairing could do with the spacer being a few mm longer but it doesnt seem a problem.

locked the bolts to just over 41nm i asked the manufacturer of the bungs what they would torque up to before they shear off, he said he didnt know, so i'll leave em at 41nm for now and keep checking them. They seem tight though.