Oldschool
Moderator
mounting points
Bsly is correct about the front two mounting points. I used carraige bolts because of the round heads and designed the connection points to line up directly with the points that the bolts attached the front "hooks" under the seat. I had to enlarge the holes on the hook fittings to accomadate the larger bolts. The 3/4"square tube aluminum that I used for the spacer legs / supports fit into the casting on the seat plate where the small square metal tabs originally sat that bolt the "hooks" in the stock set up.
The rear one is actually further back than the stock latch is by about a 1/2". I did this to make the support triangulation better (bigger area = more stable). The support leg is made the same way but has a"foot" under it that is shaped to conform with the curve of the seat pan at that point (compound curve). The "foot" is aproximately 1' X3" and spreads any load over enough area that you could most likely carry the weight of a passenger without any issues as it takes the weight over the latch. I re used one of the stock tabs from the front , grinding off the bolt pin that was spot welded and enlarged the hole to fit the rear carraige bolt, then bent the tab to follow the underside of the seat pan. This prevents the nut from digging into or wearing through the plastic seat pan.
More to it than meets the eye. I might do the rear slightly different a second time using what I learned from the prototype but I would still offset the rear leg to keep the deck as stable as it is.
Bsly is correct about the front two mounting points. I used carraige bolts because of the round heads and designed the connection points to line up directly with the points that the bolts attached the front "hooks" under the seat. I had to enlarge the holes on the hook fittings to accomadate the larger bolts. The 3/4"square tube aluminum that I used for the spacer legs / supports fit into the casting on the seat plate where the small square metal tabs originally sat that bolt the "hooks" in the stock set up.
The rear one is actually further back than the stock latch is by about a 1/2". I did this to make the support triangulation better (bigger area = more stable). The support leg is made the same way but has a"foot" under it that is shaped to conform with the curve of the seat pan at that point (compound curve). The "foot" is aproximately 1' X3" and spreads any load over enough area that you could most likely carry the weight of a passenger without any issues as it takes the weight over the latch. I re used one of the stock tabs from the front , grinding off the bolt pin that was spot welded and enlarged the hole to fit the rear carraige bolt, then bent the tab to follow the underside of the seat pan. This prevents the nut from digging into or wearing through the plastic seat pan.
More to it than meets the eye. I might do the rear slightly different a second time using what I learned from the prototype but I would still offset the rear leg to keep the deck as stable as it is.
Thanks all!!!
