Eff-Zed-1
Well-Known Member
For reference, local shop quoted 4 hours on bike, 3 hours if brought just the forks and labor rate there is $120 per hour.
Plus parts of course.
Plus parts of course.
Last edited:
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Fork seals
- Thread starter IndyFZ1
- Start date
Brandonysz
New Member
Hi good day guys, just gonna add in a method that I tried so you can change the fork seals without removing the internals. Not the most optimal or "by the book" method, but may help if you are looking to get things done quick. Useful if you dont want to fiddle with bolting the cartridges back on (as I dont have the correct tool or any usable tools that can secure the cartridge while tightening the bottom bolt).
Steps for using the hydraulic pressure method:
1) Remove the springs and spray the internals using brake cleaner/degreaser to get most of the dirt and old oil out the best you can.
2) Remove the dust seals and the metal retaining clips for the oil seal.
3) Fully fill the forks using any type of oil all the way to the top. I used some random hydraulic oil that was lying around.
4) Place the top caps back on without the springs.
5) Position one end of the fork leg against a wall, position a jack on the other end of the fork leg (use wooden planks and maybe a cloth to prevent damage/scratches due to metal on metal contact). I used a doorway for this method, one end of the fork legs on one side of the doorway, jack on the other end of the doorway.
6) Slowly crank on the jack. As the fork is fully filled up with oil, the seals should pop out under hydraulic pressure. Keep a low bucket/oil drain pan handy to catch the oil that spills out as the seal pops out.
7) Once all is done, you have removed the seals without disassembling the forks. Do a final cleaning of everything before installing your new seals and your forks should be ready to go.
Steps for using the hydraulic pressure method:
1) Remove the springs and spray the internals using brake cleaner/degreaser to get most of the dirt and old oil out the best you can.
2) Remove the dust seals and the metal retaining clips for the oil seal.
3) Fully fill the forks using any type of oil all the way to the top. I used some random hydraulic oil that was lying around.
4) Place the top caps back on without the springs.
5) Position one end of the fork leg against a wall, position a jack on the other end of the fork leg (use wooden planks and maybe a cloth to prevent damage/scratches due to metal on metal contact). I used a doorway for this method, one end of the fork legs on one side of the doorway, jack on the other end of the doorway.
6) Slowly crank on the jack. As the fork is fully filled up with oil, the seals should pop out under hydraulic pressure. Keep a low bucket/oil drain pan handy to catch the oil that spills out as the seal pops out.
7) Once all is done, you have removed the seals without disassembling the forks. Do a final cleaning of everything before installing your new seals and your forks should be ready to go.
jimco
Member
Resurrecting this old(ish) thread.
I am replacing the fork seals, Teflon coated bushings and dust seals on my 2005 FZ1 with 133,xxx miles. I've changed them many times over the years. This time I want to clean the insides of the cartridge (if advisable).
I've searched for and have not found any info whether or not to disassemble the fork cartridge for cleaning.
Any words of wisdom?
Thanks.
Jim
I am replacing the fork seals, Teflon coated bushings and dust seals on my 2005 FZ1 with 133,xxx miles. I've changed them many times over the years. This time I want to clean the insides of the cartridge (if advisable).
I've searched for and have not found any info whether or not to disassemble the fork cartridge for cleaning.
Any words of wisdom?
Thanks.
Jim
I wouldn’t worry about it. Replace the wear items, reassemble, and fill.
Been rebuilding forks on dirt bikes for yrs. Just never had the need to clean everything. I am guessing you mean like brake clean all the components?
I’ve seen a lot of cartridges out of the forks, but don’t remember seeing any cartridges being opened up and disassembled for cleaning if that’s what you mean. If there were anything replaceable in the cartridge I think you would see the parts in the fiche. Makes sense that the cartridge would have some crud in it. Not knowing what’s in there would have me avoiding solvents like brake cleaner. I’m guessing clean fork oil would be the recommended fluid to draw thru the cartridge to flush out dirt.
Like Joe I’d skip doing it.
jimco
Member
Thanks for your replies.
Yes, I do mean cleaning the internal cartridge parts with brake cleaning fluid.
I have never seen a discussion or video of the tear down of the cartridge, either. And was wondering if I missed something.
Unless someone posts up some info, I'll just put the forks back together without cleaning the cartridges.
All the parts won't be here till August 4-6.
Thanks.
Jim
Yes, I do mean cleaning the internal cartridge parts with brake cleaning fluid.
I have never seen a discussion or video of the tear down of the cartridge, either. And was wondering if I missed something.
Unless someone posts up some info, I'll just put the forks back together without cleaning the cartridges.
All the parts won't be here till August 4-6.
Thanks.
Jim
jimco
Member
Diving a little deeper into how a cartridge works, I found this pic:
The stack on the left is the compression assembly in the fork cap and on the right is the rebound stack (in the cartridge).
In this article about fork operation: https://motofomo.com/motorcycle-forks-faq/
I don't think I'll be tearing the cartridge apart.
Thanks.
Jim
The stack on the left is the compression assembly in the fork cap and on the right is the rebound stack (in the cartridge).
In this article about fork operation: https://motofomo.com/motorcycle-forks-faq/
I don't think I'll be tearing the cartridge apart.
Thanks.
Jim
Mam you gotta have some serious/competent knowledge on how to build shim stacks. Leave that to your tuner.