Gen II Rotor and bearing replacement

Blue Flash

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I have tried to put together a detailed description of my rotor replacement on my 2012 FZ1. This job is truly a 1-hour job (or less)… but if you don’t pay attention to the details, it can become a lot of work.

Part I covers the rotor replacement. If the process is all done well, then you’re golden.

Part II covers replacing the bearings if you have a brain failure like I did, and reverse the spacer on the inside end of the rotor, or if you just decide that you need to replace the bearings after removing the rotor. I haven’t seen any detailed info on what it really takes to replace the bearings, so I created Part II.

Part I: Replacing the Gen II Generator Rotor:

There is plenty of information out there to guide you through the rotor replacement, so rather than go through that part in extreme detail, I have provided links to the videos from RM Stator and Copperdawg, and also a link to a bit of background on the stator issue itself.

I have provided some supplemental information to go along with the existing information that I discovered along the way, but I didn’t want to simply repeat the information in the videos. The videos are priceless… I have taken a few screenshots from the videos at key points.

I have not tried to duplicate information that I had found for the rotor replacement work. For the details described, I may have gotten pretty deep in the weeds, but I didn’t want to leave out any details that may be important.

Gen II FZ1 Generator Rotor Replacement

Parts and where to find them:

This is where I started. The idea was to just replace the potentially defective generator rotor with the new, updated rotor, to prevent the older version from failing (magnets coming loose).

Part 1 (below) is the new redesigned Rotor, Part Number 2SH-81450-00-00.
Part 3 (quantity 3) are the three (longer) screws that hold the stator to the bearing housing

From Partzilla:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/fz1-fzs10bw/generator


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That site covers the rotor, stator, and the stator mounting screws (long screws). The crankcase gasket, bearings, and the rotor sleeve that I reversed (and associated O-ring) are located on this site:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/fz1-fzs10bw/crankcase-cover-1

See the diagram below.
Note that the parts we are concerned with in this project are the portions of the diagram below the “Partzilla.com” copyright mark.
  • Part 10 is the crankcase cover gasket (needed for rotor replacement)
  • Part 3 (quantity 2) are the pins in the bearing housing that position the stator. The pins seem to want to stay in the housing, so I didn’t replace them.
  • Part 4 is the bearing housing that is pressed into the crankcase cover.
  • Part 2 is the bearing that is captured between the bearing housing and crankcase cover.
  • Part 5 is the collar that rests in the recess of the bearing housing after the bearing is pressed into the housing. This collar gets a lot of attention in Part II.
  • Part 6 (quantity 3) are the screws that go in from the outside of the crankcase cover and screw into the threaded holes in the bearing housing.
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One more page from Partzilla is the starter page:
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2012/fz1-fzs10bw/starter
In the diagram below,
  • Part 11 is the inner bearing that presses into the engine case
  • Part 8 is the spacer that I reversed that created my bearing problems
  • Part 10 is the O-ring that fits inside the spacer (Part 8) I replaced the spacer and O-ring when I replaced the bearings.
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Let’s get started!

The initial Plan: Replace the rotor and gasket. In this section, I rely on Copperdawg’s video for details, but some of the related details are also shown in the “replace” bearings (Part II). Skim that section if you need additional information.

Ordered: October 4, 2022
  • Rotor Part # 2SH-81450-00-00 $551.68
  • Crankcase cover gasket Part # 2D1-15451-10-00 $5.49
  • Total outlay, with shipping and tax: $590.60
I went with the updated OEM rotor. Many others went with the cheaper rotor from RM Stator, but I chose to go with Yamaha parts.

Part I of this thread starts in Post 2 below
 
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Replacing the Rotor: How to do the work.

First, watch the videos:


Here is the site that I found that describes the Gen II rotor issue in fairly good detail:
https://www.fazerclub.eu/forumx/viewtopic.php?t=22372

RM Stator has a good video where they replace the rotor on an R1. The concept is the same but pay close attention to the discussion to the discussion about the spacer at about 13:40 in the video about the orientation of the spacer that goes on the end of the rotor.
https://go.rmstator.com/documents/LandingPages/ImprovedFlywheelYamahaYZFR1/us-en.html

Note that this video also covers the replacement of the stator. You may not need all of this information, but it’s a good video to watch all the way through. The stator removal and replacement is not required if you do not find any existing damage and are just replacing the rotor.

Another video that is more specific to just replacing the rotor comes from Copperdawg:

Copperdawg does not replace the bearings in his video, but he covers what is needed to replace the rotor.

If the starter clutch gears do not come off with the rotor, note how he uses the screwdriver to pull the clutch out and capture the inner sleeve and washer. That works well.

CRITICAL NOTE: in the video, he uses the cardboard to catch any parts that may fall as the rotor comes out, and when he pulls the starter clutch gears (about 4:50 in the video), the inner spacer comes out with the flat side to the inner bearing (still in the case), and the tapered side on the gear side of the rotor shaft. He keeps them on his screwdriver to keep everything straight.

If you have all of the parts in the proper orientation, it’s really not that hard to put the rotor back in.
  • No prying is needed.
  • See the video at 5:30. All of the gears should be seated well, but the gear seen on the right side of the cluster in the video is the starter clutch gear. It should rotate one direction, and lock to prevent movement in the other direction.
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  • Copperdawg goes over this at about 6:00 in the video.
  • When replacing the assembly, the teeth on the gear on the right may not both be lined up perfectly with the teeth on the two gears inside the engine
  • No problem! Press it in by hand and try to get it to seat.
  • If it does not seat all the way, then it is mostly likely that the gear on the right (photo above) just needs to be rotated a bit. Unless you have huge fingers, you should be able to pull the assembly out very slightly, and reach your fingers in around the big gear, and just rotate the inner gear very slightly and try again.
  • It may take a couple of tries, but I’ve pulled and reset the rotor several times, and by rotating the inner gear slightly, I could get it to seat in less than a couple minutes each time.
OK, so you think you have it seated?
  • Double check… is the outside of the rotor really close to flush with the gasket surface? It should be REALLY close. If not, pull it back out and verify that the inner spacer is NOT reversed (flat side to the bearing, taper to the gear side. You should see NO gap between the spacer and the gear side of the shaft.
  • This is the step where I messed up!
  • I had the spacer reversed, and it toasted both bearings. Fixing that problem cost a lot more $$$ and time. Take the time to be sure it’s good.
If you have followed all of these directions and the rotor seats where the outer edge of the rotor cylinder is very close to flush with the gasket surface of the case, then you should be good. I actually used a try-square to look at how flush it was, and it’s not perfectly flush, but certainly less than 1/16” difference... maybe 1/32”… maybe even less than that. If you are not ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN, pull it and check everything again.

If everything is good, then continue on with the video and replace the stator, cover and gasket, and torque all the case bolts as required. More photos in this thread may be helpful. Lube any sleeves, o-rings, and bearings with a little engine oil on the way back in.

Start the bike. If it won’t start, or starts and dies immediately, don’t start it again. Pull things back out and double check.
No strange grinding noises? Everything works good? OK, you’re good go for a test ride, and maybe a longer ride. The FZ1 is an awesome bike… enjoy the ride. YOU ARE DONE – CONGRATULATIONS!



OR… if you messed up things like I did… Continue on to Part II…
 
If you're here, maybe you messed up like I did, or you found issues with one or both of the rotor bearings... or just decided to replace them anyway.

REPLACING THE ROTOR BEARINGS

I reversed the spacer on the inside of the rotor. I had the tapered side of the spacer against the inner bearing, and it destroyed both bearings. The slop created by the failed inner bearing also destroyed the second bearing that is pressed between the housing and outer crankcase cover (bearing is Item 2, housing is Item 4 in the 2nd parts diagram above).

OK, I would recommend getting the following tools to replace the bearings. I got away without the press until I had to re-install the housing into the case. However, if you have access to a hydraulic press, that is the way to go. You’re going to need it before it’s all done anyway!
  • Slide hammer blind bearing puller. I got one of these, and it worked well, about $70. You will need this or a similar tool to get the inner bearing out.
https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-piece-62601.html
  • Bearing / Seal Driver. I got this one, and it worked great, both with a mallet and with the press (which I bought later) … about $100. The bearing driver is priceless, because it will allow you to hold the bearing in place when you tap it into position. If the bearing wants to start crooked, then you should be able to adjust and get it straightened out before going in further. This driver works very well with a mallet or the hydraulic press, and should also be good for other projects, like wheel bearings, so it’s not a bad idea to have one anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-0...sprefix=motion+pro+bearing+dri,aps,122&sr=8-3
  • If you don’t have a buddy with a hydraulic press, you will need one. I found this one at Harbor Freight, and it saved my bacon when I had to press the housing back into the case. I had a 10% off coupon, so it was about $152 out the door. Unfortunately, it wasn’t available local, so I had to drive a couple of hours to find it… If you don’t have access to a press, I would highly recommend getting one before you start. It will make a lot of the steps easier along the way… You will see a lot of the redneck engineering I did along the way before I finally got the press.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html


OK, so now that’s about $332 in extra tools, but the positive side is that they may be handy on future projects… not a total loss for one job.
The total cost just from the original parts and new tools is now $912.60

At first, I thought I only needed to replace the inner bearing, so I ordered a new inner bearing and a new spacer and O-ring (Items 11, 8, and 10 in the 3rd parts diagram)
After looking closer, I ended up ordering a new outer bearing and a new crankcase gasket (I tore the first new one), and then another new outer bearing (because I had to press the first new bearing back out later) …

OK, that’s $60.54 in additional parts for the inner bearing, spacer, and O-ring,
And then, when I realized I needed the outer bearing as well, I ordered that bearing and the collar, for an additional $43.62.
After having to press the new bearing back out,

I ordered a new one to replace it, and also ordered new screws to replace those that hold in the housing to the outer case (3 of them, Items 6, Diagram 2) and 3 of the longer screws that hold the stator in (3 of them, Items 3, Diagram 1). Total cost of these parts: $73.95. The screws are pricy, but it’s hard to get them out with the Loctite and Torx heads. I used the old stator screws (longer ones) as guides to get the housing to line up properly in the final press.


OK, so the total cost so far is:

Rotor and gasket (original plan): $590.60
Inner Bearing, spacer, O-ring: $60.54
Outer bearing and gasket: $43.62
Another outer bearing and screws: $73.95
New tools: $332.00

The moral to the story is:
Total after messing up the spacer: $1100.71
Net Cost of the mistake: $510.11
Be sure you put it all back in correctly!
 
OK… How to replace the rotor and bearings:

Unplug the wire connector to the stator it’s the one on the right in the photo, but I unplugged both connectors just to be sure. This is covered in Copperdawg’s video, and the plugs are visible and accessible without removing the seat.
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  • Remove the center plug on the crankcase cover and the case bolts to remove the crankcase cover (covered in Copperdawg’s video).Page 8a.jpg
  • As Copperdawg shows in his video, you have to hold the rotor in place when you pull the stator with the crankcase cover. I used a long Philips screwdriver and set the handle against my gut to hold it in place so I could use both hands to pull the cover.
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  • Once all the screws are removed, I just rotated the crankcase cover and stator out of the way, and let it hang form the wires. Later I set it on a bucket under it to take the tension off the wires.
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  • In the photo above, the 3 stator screws are T27, will likely have green locktite, and are torqued to 10 ft-lbs. They are kind of a beast to remove without pulling the assembly completely and working on a benchtop.
  • Copperdawg used cardboard, and I used a cut piece of a plastic cutting board to catch any parts that may fall when removing the rotor. You may have to wriggle the rotor a bit, but it should just pull out by hand with a bit of persuasion.
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  • If the starter clutch gears do not come out with the rotor, push a screwdriver through the center of the gears to catch the washer and spacer and keep them from falling. Pull the starter clutch gears out. Here is a shot of what came out on the screwdriver for me. Note that the end of the spacer is the flat end, not the tapered end. If you can leave these parts on the screwdriver as Copperdawg recommends, that works best. I messed up somewhere and ended up turning the spacer around. That is not good.
  • The spacer shown in the photo to the right of the washer actually goes inside the gear cluster. Just push it back in, it will be fine.
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  • Here is a view of the inside of the engine after removing the starter clutch. The idler gear may interfere with re-installing the inner bearing, so it has to be removed. When it is replaced, lube the shaft / spacer with engine oil and apply red Loctite to the threads of the Allen bolt in the center of the idler. Torque spec is 7.2 ft-lbs.
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  • Just for comparison, the old rotor is on the right, new one on the left. I shouldn’t have to worry about the magnets coming loose with the new rotor.

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  • I apologize for not having photos of this step, but I then used the blind bearing puller / slide hammer to remove the inner bearing from the engine. I had paper towels stuffed in the engine to keep any foreign material from falling into the lower crankcase. In this photo, the bearing is removed.
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  • To re-install the inner bearing, I had to remove the idler gear to make sure I had plenty of clearance and room to work. It comes out easily after loosening the Allen bolt, and the assembly comes out by hand. Note the washer placement in the assembly:

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  • Using the Motion Pro bearing driver, I installed the new inner bearing with a mallet until the sound changed with the successive bearing strikes. The outside edge of the bearing race is just outside of the face of the case surface (very slightly). The outer diameter fitting of the driver is 35mm. Start by lightly tapping and make sure it gets started in straight before driving it in further. It goes in without a lot of force. I cooled the bearing in the freezer and coated the outside bearing race and the recess with engine oil to help lube the parts when pressing / driving.
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  • Next, I had to remove the stator from the outer case. This was kind of a pain in the butt! I had to hold the case with one hand and try to loosen the #27 torx screws (3) from the stator. Getting the wire fished out seemed like a pain in the neck, so I removed the screws when it was hanging from the cable. Maybe it’s better to take the time to fish the wire out and do this from the bench, but I got them loose. The screws turn out hard all the way. I think they had green Loctite on them, so they didn’t want to come loose. I finally got them loose and took the engine case to the worktable.
  • Here you can see the housing that is pressed into the case, with the bearing captured within the case. The pins sticking out are the positioning pins that align the stator, and the 3 screw holes for the long stator screws are visible. The threaded hole below the shiny part of the housing is the inside of the hole where one of the three screws screw into the housing from the outside of the crankcase cover. These are the 3 shorter screws.
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  • Another shot of the inside of the crankcase cover. Note that the shiny portion of the housing (left side) is flush to the case cover face. The dull side of the housing (right side) is slightly recessed slightly below the case cover face.
  • At this stage, I checked the bearing again. It did not turn freely, so I knew for sure that this bearing needed to be replaced.
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  • I still didn’t have a press at this point. Pressing out the housing would have been easy, but I had to use the slide hammer and blind bearing puller to get the housing removed. The issue was… how to hold the case in place while I pulled the housing with the slide hammer????
  • OK… I don’t recommend this method, but it worked. I doubled-up a towel on the floor so that the engine cover was cushioned below, and the top (gasket surface) was just above the height of a 2x4. I placed the two 2x4s around the cover, then crossed two more 2x4s over the top to hold it in place. It was snug when I stood on the top 2x4s. Now, I set up the blind bearing puller into the bearing, and while standing over the center of the case, I had to pull on the slide hammer between my legs, while trying to stay balanced. That was a real trick for this 60-year-old guy!
  • Fortunately, I got the bearing and housing to come loose with the slide hammer. Note the collar that is still sitting in the engine case in the photo:
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  • I had to get the bearing out of the housing. It’s inside the housing on the lower side of the housing shown above. I pulled out a hole saw and cut a hole in a 2x4 and used it and a socket to drive the bearing out with a mallet. Below is a shot of the removed bearing and the redneck bearing removal block.
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  • Now… the start of the new issues. I used the bearing driver and mallet to get the new bearing in the housing. Here is a shot of the bearing pressed into the housing. Note that the collar that is lying in the crankcase cover has to sit on top of the bearing (in the recess visible in the housing). The visible face of the housing in this photo has to go down into the case, with the collar in place. It became obvious that:
    • The housing will have to be pressed in from below, or the collar will “walk around” outside the correct location in the housing.
    • Driving the housing into the case will bounce the collar out of place, even if the case is on top.
    • I don’t want to be pounding on an aluminum case!
    • The three screw holes you see on the housing have to match up nearly perfectly with the screw holes on the outside of the case.
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  • Here is another shot of the collar sitting in the case. It is pretty obvious that it has lots of room to slide around in the case, and not line up with the housing recess. This photo also shows the three screw holes for the 3 short screws that hold the housing to the case from the outside. Those 3 holes are the ones that have to line up with the 3 holes in the housing.
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  • When I started to try and get the housing back into the case, it wouldn’t go in straight, and getting it pressed in AND getting the screw holes to line up would be essentially impossible with a mallet and with the odd shape of the housing. I got it started, but it wasn’t straight. It looked like the screw holes were slightly off as well.
  • I needed a press, so I burned a Saturday and went and found a press at Harbor Freight. I got it assembled that night.
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  • Now that I had the press and the housing was partially stuck into the engine case (crooked), I knew it had to come out. Using the press with the socket I used to press out the old bearing, I pushed the bearing with the press, and it “popped”. It was straight now, but the screw holes didn’t line up. I pressed it out completely and removed the new bearing. I figured that after the pressure in the press, I wanted to go ahead and put another bearing in… just in case it was damaged.
  • I pressed the new bearing in using the bearing driver and press, and that was a lot easier than using a mallet. No problem.
  • Next, I needed to press the housing into the case, and keep it straight, keep the screw holes lined up, and keeping the collar in place.
  • I ordered replacements for the 3 long screws that hold the stator in place and the three short screws that screw in from the outside of the case to the housing, I used the old longer screws (same size and thread pitch) to screw in from the outside of the case to hold the housing in place and “guide” the housing into the right location in the case.
Unfortunately, the screws got in the way, so I drilled holes in a 2x4 to mate with the locations of the screws and pressed the housing into the case cover. Here is a shot from the top of the screws and the 2x4, and then a shot of the housing being pressed (partially) into the case. The 2x4 also provided some cushioning for the outside of the crankcase cover in the press.

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  • The housing started in straight, and all was going well, but the case bottomed out on the press plates, so I needed something to get it pressed in the rest of the way.
  • Since the locator pins on the housing didn’t want to come out, I drilled out holes in a “donut hole” from my prior hole saw cut and used this plug to help press the housing the rest of the way in.
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  • Back to the press. This step took several presses. I couldn’t really see well, so I would press some, see movement, pull the assembly out, check it, press again, etc. I got it to where I thought it was all good, but when I shook it, the collar was in place, but still rattling a little. I kept pressing very slowly until it seated and didn’t rattle anymore.
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  • Next, I checked to see if the short screws would work from the outside: Success! Looking from the inside, the housing is pressed in with the stepped-down section just below the face of the engine case cover surface, and the shiny part is flush with the cover surface.
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  • I applied red Loctite to the new short screws and torqued them to 7.2 ft-lbs. It was time to re-install the stator.
  • Pressing the housing into the case cover was the step that had me stressed out. I had to stop here and have a Guinness Draught to celebrate.
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  • Another check, I could put my pinky finger in the hole and the new bearing turned freely and smoothly. That looked good.
  • Before I installed the rotor, I removed the idler gear again to make sure it was torqued properly, oiled with engine oil, and red Loctite on the threads. Re-installed the rotor.
  • I noticed that, since I replaced the inner spacer and O-ring, the spacer fit tighter and didn’t want to fall off during assembly. I also made sure the rotor shaft and O-ring had engine oil on them.
  • I used a straw to dip into my engine oil container and blew oil into both of the new bearings before replacing the rotor.

  • I was close to done, and I set the camera down. Replacing the stator is covered well in the RM Stator and Copperdawg videos and required both hands, so photos were sort of difficult to do.
  • I set the stator on the housing pins, applied red Loctite to the new longer screws, and torqued to 10 ft-lbs. Then, I set the wire cable and grommet back in the case and the wire stay (red Loctite on the bolt – I didn’t see a torque spec, so I tightened to the lowest setting of 7.2 ft-lbs.).
  • I then re-installed the crankcase cover / stator, while holding the rotor in place as shown in Copperdawg’s video, and installed all the case bolts, torquing all of them to spec (2 sizes of bolts, 7.2 ft-lbs. for the smaller size, 8.7 ft-lbs. for the larger, crisscross tightening sequence).
  • Replaced the center plug and O-ring (re-used old parts here). No torque spec, so I tightened it until it was snug and let it go.

  • Since I had bearing failures, I changed the oil and filter. I didn’t see any indication that I had shavings or metal bits in the oil.
  • Started the bike. No strange sounds. Everything seems to be working fine. Went for a short test ride.
  • No issues. I love this bike! It only messes up with bad wrenching. Hopefully I won’t do this again.
 
Thank you, sir! There are a few pics that I wish I had gotten that I didn't, but I try to take a lot of pictures as I do a new project so I can go back and see what I had before when I have questions. I had looked a lot at this site and FZ1OA, and just couldn't find any detail on the specifics of doing the bearing changes.

I just hope this helps somebody else out if they find themselves in a similar situation.
 
I’m New here ,and to the fz1….researched and online shopped for an fz1 for a couple months till finally buying one last week….it ain’t perfect and has more miles than idve liked but it had an important factor I needed to buy , it was in my price range ! Lol …anyways while shopping around I kept seeing this issue popping up ,on YouTube and online in general …so I immediately amazoned up an rmstator replacement Rotor … magnets letting loose and wandering throughout the engine scared me ……it took till now for me to notice , and I may be wrong (probably am ) but in watching many replacement videos I now see that the rotor encloses the stator up against the cover …my point being if magnets did fail it probably wouldn’t spread fragments everywhere like most seem to think ….to me it looks like failing magnets ,while sucking and getting you stuck where it happens , would all be contained inside the rotor and outer cover…? And when removing ,if removed in two pieces , that’s the time where possible fragments dropping everywhere would be a problem . But pulling it all out in one piece ( if blown up already) would more or less insure no magnets falling into oil pan etc…..? Am I missing something?
 
In theory, that is correct, the rotor and stator could possibly be pulled at the same time. Then again, if the inner bearing is damaged, the rotor will likely be hard to remove. It can get wedged in there pretty tightly. Also, there are still the loose parts at the inside end of the rotor shaft that could fall into the opening to the bottom end, and that would be a real problem. The guy in the RM Stator video seemed to discount that issue, saying that he has done the job many times and and the parts always fall down on the "shelf" below the bearing. I wouldn't want to be the exception to that rule. If the spacer / washer drop and can't be pulled from the top, then a short job becomes a big job. The service manual states that the stator needs to be removed while holding the rotor in place, and I assume that this is the concern that led to that step, and the reason that the center plug on the crankcase cover exists to begin with.

The rotor doesn't seal against the cover, so there is a gap that will still allow good sized pieces to fall down in the bottom end. A complete magnet won't fall through, but smaller pieces of shrapnel could get into the bottom end and cause some major issues. If a magnet comes loose, the photos I've seen of the damage show that the stator is also destroyed, and the pieces from that damage could also get around the rotor. At the speed that the rotor could be spinning at the time of failure, it would be hard to say just what could be coming out of there.

If my thoughts are correct, and the rotor has already failed, then there may already be pieces in the bottom end. The bearings are likely toast as well. In that case, you could have parts that are damaged that could fall into the bottom end that would have been captured on the screwdriver through the rotor step that Copperdawg shows. Less material in the bottom end means a lower chance of additional damage if everything is not found and removed. Maybe it's a low probability, but the consequences could be costly.

Granted, the gap between the rotor and case is small, but then again, the rotor also sits about flush to the outside case edge, so any fragments falling due to the stator removal will likely fall outside the engine, and not into the engine. With the case in place, any small fragments that could get into the engine are contained within the case, but not necessarily within the rotor, making it more likely to get around the rotor than when removing the stator.

it's hard to say for sure, what will happen, but I would rather go with that approach and fail to what I see as the "safe side" scenario.

By the way, I would recommend replacing the spacer that I put in backwards, or at least replace the O-ring inside the spacer.

The moral to my story documented in this thread is:
  • Follow the instructions, and pay attention to all of the details.
  • Question everything you do and make sure it's right.
  • If you are replacing the bearings, make sure you have all the right tools available to properly do the job.
  • What I did would have been much, much easier if I had just bought the darned hydraulic press before I started.....
  • If you destroy the engine, then it's a whole new ball game.
 
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