How did you break in your FZ1?

My bike is in the garage with 997 miles on it. Tomorrow on my way to work, I will cross the 1K mark. At last!!

While the manual was a little vague, and I got a lot (sometimes contradictory advice), I have made it. I never rode at a constant speed, shifted constantly, rode on freeways, rode through the city, I changed the oil three times during this, I have run it up and touched the redline a couple of times, and I rode under a under a full moon.

My gas mileage is bound to get better, after I stop riding like this.
 
achtungtwister said:
Another theory for breanking in an FZ1 ...

http://www.angelfire.com/ia/z/FZ1breakin.htm

Engine Break-In Controversy: Should You Ride it Like You Stole it, or Baby It?

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
Click to expand...

I read some of this before hand. I can kind of get my head around this as well. That's why I tried (within reason) to load the engine for brief periods during this whole ordeal. I tried to do things gradually (never know if an engine is just going to break and let you fly), but I gradually increased the high rpms I would touch (not maintain, just get to and back off). I also increased the load gradually. I found hills to climb in higher and higher gears. I never really "babied" it. But I never really tortured it either (never will). In the end, who really knows?

I think the thing I did though that meant the most was changing the oil right away. I did this at about 150 miles. And, I don't think that actually changing the oil was the key, I think it was changing the oil filter. The oil was black.

Out of all the stuff I read and did, this is the only thing I can really relate to.
 
Last edited:
I rode it kinda hard to set the rings then changed the oil 30 or so miles then I rode it easy to 600 miles changed the oil then rode to 1k miles changed the oil and its been great every since then.
 
So I originally posted this when I was breaking it in and now I have over 5000 miles clocked. It's been almost 4 months.

As these engines get miles on them, they get a lot smoother.

I have the dreaded fairing buzz now so maybe this weekend I'll take the fairing apart and re-weather strip it.
 
pretty much the same way, lots of engine braking, nothing above 6k for first 300 miles, changed the oil at 300 , same schedule as first 300 except pushed it to 8k once in a while, changed oil at 600, same pattern as first 600 miles, at this point i would redline and back off immediately every so often,
changed oil again at 1200 miles by this time, pretty much rode it as I would..
the notchy shifting was almost non-existant when I hit this point, I felt the bike fully broke in when I hit 2k miles..
 
mine now has 598 miles on, and has had the load and revs increased on each ride. i think its now ready to just be ridden, but not to the redline just yet. 1st the oil needs to be changed as its black and full of debris (as you would expect of the 1st lot) I will get this done at a dealers just for the warranty.

At about 1200 miles I will change oil and filter again after a couple of thrashes, then ride it like I stole it.

My bro in law is a mechanic and has reported many new cars in use at dealerships that only make good power if given a good thrash part way through the running in period! If the bike/engine has never seen higher revs then how can it be run in?
 
My bike now has 590 miles on it and I just changed the oil and filter. The oil was not black as other have described. I did not ride my bike like I stole it, but kept a moderate load on it as much as possible. I varied my speed a lot and did lots of shifting. It has not seen over 6k rpm yet. As for using a torque wrench on the drain bolt, I'll just say I used one. It has a soft aluminum case and I'm tightening a steel bolt into it. Every time you put excessive torque on it you will be stretching the threads until potential failure. I have no desire to drill, thread and heli-coil my drain hole. Unless you tighten lots of bolts and have that natural "feel" for the right torque, I would suggest using a torque wrench.
 
Last edited:
carp299 said:
My bike now has 590 miles on it and I just changed the oil and filter. The oil was not black as other have described. I did not ride my bike like I stole it, but kept a moderate load on it as much as possible. I varied my speed a lot and did lots of shifting. It has not seen over 6k rpm yet. As for using a torque wrench on the drain bolt, I'll just say I used one. It has a soft aluminum case and I'm tightening a steel bolt into it. Every time you put excessive torque on it you will be stretching the threads until potential failure. I have no desire to drill, thread and heli-coil my drain hole. Unless you tighten lots of bolts and have that natural \"feel\" for the right torque, I would suggest using a torque wrench.
Click to expand...

I agree with using a torque wrench for those who don't know their own strength, and I know the users manual says 31 lbs/ft for the torque, but boy, that sounds pretty high for a drain plug in an aluminum case. I'd say more like about 10 lbs or so. It doesn't take much to get it tight enough to hold oil and keep from faling out but once you start to mess up the threads you're screwed, IN A BIG WAY!
 
andrewclaycomb said:
So I originally posted this when I was breaking it in and now I have over 5000 miles clocked. It's been almost 4 months.

As these engines get miles on them, they get a lot smoother.

I have the dreaded fairing buzz now so maybe this weekend I'll take the fairing apart and re-weather strip it.
Click to expand...
I have the dreaded fairing buzz now so maybe this weekend I'll take the fairing apart and re-weather strip it.

I have been hearing that too and my bike is brand new.
 
Oups!!!

Ok, call me stupid. I did'nt observ a brake in period. Besides getting to know the bike I did'nt ride conservativly. In the first 100 km I past 200 kph and before 1000 km i was redlining often. Keep in mind regular riding at normal speeds. Time will tell I guess.
 
I've been trying my best to do the motoman break-in way. Loading up the engine and engine braking with roll-ons and quick bursts of power. Not abusing, and not redlining it, but I have hit 8-9k very briefly a couple times, then let it spool down. I have just under 100 miles now, and the oil is getting very dark. I will likely change it at 300 miles or before. Then again at about 1500. Apparently, the theory is that the rings need some good load on them to properly seat.

Troy
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top