Motor out. Clutch question and suggestions needed..

[Prongomatic]

Hello everyone
It's been a while since I've posted anything so I hope everyone is well.

BIKE: GEN-1, 15K miles, R1 Fork conversion,AIS removed, Ivanized Carbs, Yosh pipe, new brakes & fluid,new steering bearings,Carb coolant bypass,fresh oil & plugs,clean and oiled K&N filter, EXUP valve cleaned and lubed,SS brake lines,12v GPS charger, Hallo's installed, 530 chain and sprockets..

INFO: I'm doing all of my winter maintenance on my Gen-1. I noticed that the clutch is starting to creep when in neutral and it's getting harder to pop it into neutral when it's at idle. I have a new cable and it's fully adjusted.
I pulled my motor today. I need to change hoses, cracked intakes, and do something with the clutch. I have some time on my hands and figured I need a project.

QUESTIONS: 1)Until I open the clutch and trouble shoot, best case scenario, will heaver springs stop the clutch from creeping?

2)With 15k should I go ahead and check the valves? The bike is strong, and does not blow smoke and the motor is pulled.

3)Minus the info above, does anyone have any suggestions on any other vital maintenance procedures or fun projects that I should spearhead since the motor is pulled?
Thanks

 

[Hellgate]

It should.

I like EBC friction plates, and OEM plates, with a 10% stronger spring. Any stronger than that my arm gets tired in stop-n-go.

If the valves are the same as the Gen 2, someone please correct me, I would say no. On the other hand, if you have spare time you may as well. :shine: And it is much easier with the motor out of the frame.

IIRC - At 24K my FZ1 had ~ 6 out of spec, on my R6 Track Bike is has a ton out of spec, but it sees redline all the time.

 

[fisherman322]

As Hellgate said if I had the motor out and had the time I would check the valves,Then not worry about them for a long time. If you do check shim clearance`s I would buy a new cover gasket, been caught once after being told it was not needed.

 

[Prongomatic]

So if I replace the springs in the clutch, would they be?
Diagram posted below.
#1 The springs on the primary driven gear,
or
#15 All (6) springs on the pressure plate
Should I replace both?

Thanks

 

[lindy]

Not sure what you mean by "clutch creep", but I'm guessing that you are not getting a full disengagement of the clutch with the lever pulled all the way in.
If so, the clutch is dragging, the springs are not equal - maybe one is broken or ... weakened. New springs and plates will fix that, if everything else looks OK inside. Look for wear in sliding notches.

Heavier springs won't fix it any better than stock springs - but will tire your hand more by making the clutch harder to disengage and hold.

 

[Prongomatic]

The info is much appreciated. I'll find out more when I open her up.

 

[super googan]

If your cable is new and adjusted properly and the clutch is still dragging I'd suspect you have some warped steel clutch plates. Check them on a level surface. Try a glass table or any piece of glass, nice and level

If you have an after market adjustable clutch lever often they wont provide enough lever travel if adjusted too close to the handlebar.
The stroke gets shorter the closer you have the lever adjusted to the bars.
So keep that in mind.

I usually prefer factory clutch plates over EBC or barnett for just about any bike. I've seen a few people have had issues with proper stack height with EBC/Barnett. Make sure you check the stack height whatever you choose, can help avoid having to do the same job twice

You can use 3 heavy duty clutch springs and 3 stock if your worried about a heavy clutch lever, Just alternate them ( 1 heavy, 1 stock, 1 heavy and so on )

The engines out, may as well check/adjust the valves

Edit: if the steel clutch plates are blued but not warped you can try sanding them a little and reuse them but I usually like to replace them.

 

[lindy]

So if I replace the springs in the clutch, would they be?
Diagram posted below.
#1 The springs on the primary driven gear,
or
#15 All (6) springs on the pressure plate
Should I replace both?

Thanks

All springs. You don't know which are damaged or overheated. The pressure plate for sure - it is a likely culprit. But the others, too. Don't skimp, and wish you hadn't later.