Cooper'n
Well-Known Member
Very interesting. how were you able to get all the info? Owners manual?
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The only values I see that indicate something unusual are the 61/30 and the 62/1. I find the manual difficult to follow but I think the 62/1 means there's one (1) history of a fault code and it looks like the 61/30 means the lean angle sensor went off. I don't think values can be changed in diagnostic mode..only the condition of the fuel/ignition/sensor system monitored.
The 01 is throttle position sensor and should read 15-18 with throttle closed...you're at 15.
02 & 03 are atmospheric and intake pressure readings.
05 is intake air temp, 06 is coolant temp.
07 is speed sensor, 08 is lean angle sensor and "upright" readings are 0.4-1.4
09 is battery voltage...12.4 is good.
The rest are various safety switches like "side stand" and "in neutral".
I have no idea what the C:01, 02, 03, 04 readings are but am guessing it's something about "cylinder 01,02,03,04"... maybe injector pulse settings of some sort?
I'm pretty confident after some research that CO1, CO2, CO3, CO4
refer to cylinders 1-4 idle/part throttle low rpm mixture.
A higher number will be richer and a lower number leaner.
I suspect the numbers are different depending on year of bike,different UCU setting per year, country of origin , meeting different emission and fuel standards.
The numbers being different for each cylinder may have to do with each cylinder being a little different ......example cylinders 1 and 4 will usually run cooler on a inline 4 engine because they are on the out side and get more airflow.
The opposite being true for cylinders 2 and 3 they are sandwiched in the middle and tend to run hotter.
I would probably just trust that Yamaha knows what they are doing and leave the settings alone. If I did change the settings I would be sure to record the original numbers in case they need to be restored.
Simple terms..........the CO settings are like idle mixture screws on a bike with carbs.
Messing with the CO settings may throw off the throttle-body sync .
Thanks for the info , the only problem is you never know if they have been tampered with previously , plus its very easy to be pressing buttons and change the settings without realizing :rmwl:
found this also , NOT MY WORDS may be of use to someone
It's a mapping but only available to European model
But for best result must on dynotest so the AFR is correct 1:13 or 1:13,5
C1 for idle rpm to 3000 rpm, oem setting is -5
C2 for 3000 to 7000 rpm, oem setting is 20
C3 for 7000 to 10000 rpm same 20
C4 for up to 10000 rpm is 2
Number is %, if 20 it mean 20% rich
So we don't need power commander any more
Sorry for language, I'm from Indonesian
Thanks for the info , the only problem is you never know if they have been tampered with previously , plus its very easy to be pressing buttons and change the settings without realizing :rmwl:
found this also , NOT MY WORDS may be of use to someone
It's a mapping but only available to European model
But for best result must on dynotest so the AFR is correct 1:13 or 1:13,5
C1 for idle rpm to 3000 rpm, oem setting is -5
C2 for 3000 to 7000 rpm, oem setting is 20
C3 for 7000 to 10000 rpm same 20
C4 for up to 10000 rpm is 2
Number is %, if 20 it mean 20% rich
So we don't need power commander any more
Sorry for language, I'm from Indonesian