Pulling forks through top yoke by 10 mm on fzs 1000 2005

Brian mahony

Brian mahony

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Bought this last week and pulled fork through top yoke by 10mm to quicken the steering and making it turn easier.as this will put more weight on front end for handling and quick turning and stability will I be ok with 10 mm or is it too much.front forks are a bit long for this model bike I think.🤔 thanks in advanceIMG_0838.jpeg
 
Some have gone that route (10mm). Give it a try and see if you like it.

There's no free lunch, without modern electronic controlled suspension. Suspension is a spectrum when you move towards faster steering, you likely move away from stability. Just have to find your comfort level. I'd try not to overload that rear storage bin with the quicker steering. Never felt the need for faster steering on public roads, but I could see it being helpful on a tight closed circuit for an expert rider.

Nice example, good find.
 
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If you ever get a chance to ride without the handlebar cross brace, I'd like to know if it helps with bar vibration.
 
Mine are at about that, maybe a little less, and the bike is still very stable. I also made some custom dogbones and raised the rear ride height, further quickening the steering and I have no issues with stability.
 
killer5280 said:
Mine are at about that, maybe a little less, and the bike is still very stable. I also made some custom dogbones and raised the rear ride height, further quickening the steering and I have no issues with stability.
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Have u any pics of bike with wishbones and how many sets have u made
 
I'll look through my notes to see if I can find what center to center spacing I used. It's been a few years. I just used flat metal stock and a drill press.
I have retained the center stand.
 
Brian mahony said:
Bought this last week and pulled fork through top yoke by 10mm to quicken the steering and making it turn easier.as this will put more weight on front end for handling and quick turning and stability will I be ok with 10 mm or is it too much.front forks are a bit long for this model bike I think.🤔 thanks in advanceView attachment 28388
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Reduces trail AND rake. Makes less stable, and might cause a high speed tank slapper and serious injury or death.
Don't F around with suspension geometry unless you know what you're doing!
 
moosecapades said:
Reduces trail AND rake. Makes less stable, and might cause a high speed tank slapper and serious injury or death.
Don't F around with suspension geometry unless you know what you're doing!
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It's a pretty well known and common mod. Of course one should proceed with caution and change settings incrementally, but it's not rocket science.
 
Another option that I've used on my FZ, as well as my previous F4i, is to install a taller rear tire, i.e. I use a 190/55 rather than a 190/50. Bonus benefit is that my speedo is dead on now!
 
I like my option. Learn how the bike works and ride it. If it feels like my old ysr50 put springs in the front and a shock in the back. And learn how it works. IMO you might gain a few tenths per lap by moving the tubes around. I dont ride on a track tho.
 
bunk said:
I like my option. Learn how the bike works and ride it. If it feels like my old ysr50 put springs in the front and a shock in the back. And learn how it works. IMO you might gain a few tenths per lap by moving the tubes around. I dont ride on a track tho.
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Neither do I, and yours is good advice, but it does make a better turning bike that doesn't want to run wide on corner exit. I have ridden bikes that turned too quickly and were nervous and twitchy from too radical geometry, but that's not the case with this mod on the (Gen 1-the only one I have experience with) FZ.
To each his own and caution is certainly the watchword, and I like this mod on my bike, but, yeah, it's not a night and day difference.

This reminds me of something Troy Bayliss said when he was beginning racing in production classes. He said during down time all his competitors would work feverishly on their bikes changing all kinds of settings instead of trying to get the most out of the setup they already had. He would just work on riding his bike to its limits before making any changes.
 
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killer5280 said:
I have ridden bikes that turned too quickly and were nervous and twitchy from too radical geometry.
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You accidentally described jumping off a diesel and onto a 2t sportbike. ysr50's are crazy twitchy but easy to figure out. If you know how to ride. My rgv provides a reality check on the first turn as well.
 
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