Seeking people with experience with Holeshot stage 1 jet kit...

N

Nate

Member
Visit site
Looking for people that have experience with the HoleShot stage 1 jet kit...
Hi all, I just got the holeshot stage 1 with timing advancer.. I'm wondering how many shims to put in. Says 2 to 3 for my altitude (sea level to 2,800 ft). If you have installed one of these kits how many shims worked for you the best? I only want to do this once.. Also, did you or should I mess with the floats at all? And how many turns out did you set the air screws? Or are the instruction specs. close enough. ..
Thanks,
Nate
 
The default settings should work great. I would use 3 shims plus the washer in the needles. 3 shims is slightly richer than 2 shims, so if in doubt, I would go richer. I lived in Alabama at <1000 ft elevation, and also in West Texas at just over 3000 ft elevation. the default sea level settings worked great in both locations for me. I set the mixture screws to 3.5 turns out. I never needed to use the choke to start it again. It ran great, and I never had an issue.

The floats DO need to be set properly, and mine were set to 13 mm. I created a make-shift float height template our of a 3x5 index card, and it served me well for my jet kit and on a couple of other jet kits that I installed for friends.

As I remember, changing the timing advancer out required putting the bike in 1st gear, sitting on the bike, and breaking it loose while sitting on the bike and standing on the rear brake. Make sure to put RED loctite on the bolt and torque it to the correct setting with a good torque wrench. Having a buddy for this step makes it easier, but it can be done solo.

By the way, I never disconnected the throttle cables from the carbs. I wrapped towels over the tank and frame to keep from scratching anything, and did all the work with the carbs hanging off the side of the bike. It may be easier to do some of the steps with an extra set of hands, but getting the cables reconnected with the carbs in place can be a PITA. Also, if you decide to change things later, the shims can be changed without pulling the carbs. Just be careful with the tiny o-ring under the carb cap. I don't know what it really does, but you want to be sure not to lose it. I think Dale suggested putting a tiny drop of super-glue on one spot of the o-ring on a toothpick and putting it in place to keep them from getting lost in the process.

Below is some information that I put together for another FZ1 rider... hope it helps!

Details:

1. Float Bowl settings:

the floats should be set so that they hang at 13 mm from full closed. if you turn the carbs over, you can measure them with an index card template. as they just rest on the springs, they should just meet the center of the index card. Here's a template for making the card.. (Photo didn't come through in the copy. See attached file). To make one of these, you take a 3x5 index card and VERY carefully mark it up, and cut it with a razor, to try and keep it as accurate as possible... Note that the image file is NOT TO SCALE.

2. Main Jets:

The specs on the Dale Walker Kit for sea-level and near-sea level settings were 130s for cylinders 1 and 4, and 127.5s for cylinders 2 and 3. Bigger jets, richer at wide open throttle.

3. Needle shims:

I ran 3 shims plus the washer here.

The shims sit under the base that holds the metering needle that constricts the main jet. It is tapered to meter fuel mixture through the low and midrange. raising the needle (more shims) opens up the “gap” more, allowing more fuel in. more shims, richer on the bottom and midrange. Recommended starting spot: 3 shims. I don't think you'll really need to do any adjusting.

4. Mixture screws:

The mixture screws mainly deal with the very low rpm, off-idle condition. richer is out, leaner is in. I set mine to 3.5 turns out. in a richer condition, you may not need the choke to start anymore. This may be a bit on the rich side, but it should richen up and start better regardless. the factory settings leaned out the bike on the low end, supposedly to help it pass emissions. Mixture screws can be easily set without removing the carbs with a 90 degree bevel screwdriver.

5. Airbox Mod:

It's been awhile, so I don't have the original documentation for the hole to cut in the airbox lid. Dale spec’d a size for the hole, and he was very explicit about the size and location. Takes 5 minutes maybe.
 

Attachments

  • Float Bowl Ht Template.JPG
    Float Bowl Ht Template.JPG
    30.1 KB · Views: 6
I had a Holeshot slip-on, but one of the other guys got great results with the same setup and the OEM pipe.
For the airbox, I just drilled the new hole that was recommended in the holeshot instructions.
 
OK. The service manual says 12.5 to 13.5mm for the floats.. I checked them when the floats just touched the spring loaded (thing) on the needle valve, not pushing it down at all.. And the straight line on the float was parallel with the carb surface.. I set my caliper to 13mm and these floats are pretty much right on target already.. Not even worth monkeying with them.. Does this info seem correct?
Thanks,
Nate
 
The specs in the Holeshot instructions are what matter, but 13mm is what the instructions say, per my information.
Many of us have used the templates to measure since it's hard to get them just right if you have to "eyeball" the measurement. A little bit off can make a difference.
If you're confident with the measurements, then rock on!
 
Finally done! Thanks for all the help.. It was a learning experience for sure.. Did it exactly how the instructions stated.. BTW. What's the best air cleaner for this setup? I did the airbox mods...
Thanks,
Nate
 
Great!!!!
How was the first ride? :)
Stick with the OEM filter.
You could go with a high flow filter, but that would provide more airflow and make the bike run leaner.
The kit is designed to work with an OEM or equivalent filter.
 
Runs very well.. Noticeably faster than ever before.. No pops on deceleration.. smooth and consistent... I'll pull a plug or 2 to see how she's running in a bit...
Thanks,
Nate
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top