• Welcome to the Yamaha FZ1 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

Serious Rookie post

Danbcha

Danbcha

Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2013
Messages
37
Location
Moore, OK
Visit site
I need to replace the oil, filter, brakes on my bike by tomorrow around 1000 hours (10am to you civilians). I can't get to a yamaha dealer, would the local kawasaki shop's oil be the same?

Can I just pick the stuff up at O'Reilly?

How hard are brakes to replace? I've heard one bolt.

Filter a bitch to change?
 
You can find step by step guides on YouTube for this kind of stuff, makes it a cinch to follow along. As for oil and filter, pick up a jug of Shell Rotella T6 10w40 at Walmart, it's the blue jug. It's a JASO-MA certified full synthetic for under $21. You can get a suitable filter while you're there. Avoid the orange Fram filters, the house brand Supertech tested better than them.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html
 
The SuperTech oil filter I used from Walmart is longer than stock, but it still works. I'm sorry, I don't remember the number. It is much closer to the headers, so on and off is a bit tricky, but you end up with more filter. Of course, the end of the filter may take on heat from the exhaust headers, but I never had a problem with that.

As far as oil goes (oil threads never go well :shaking head:), I use Mobil 1 4T, but the Rotella T6 mentioned is fine.

Sorry, no advise from me on the brakes.
 
Make sure to be mindfull when removing the filter, try not to get to much oil on you exhaust headers.

Breaks are not scary. You need to compress the calipers a bit. You can use a C-clamp tool purchased at Walmart for less then 10 dollars to do this as well. By some grease too, I always lube my pins and the back of the pads - old habit my dad taught me. In reality you don't need to put grease on the back of the pad.
 
Chandler said:
Breaks are not scary. You need to compress the calipers a bit. You can use a C-clamp tool purchased at Walmart for less then 10 dollars to do this as well. By some grease too, I always lube my pins and the back of the pads - old habit my dad taught me. In reality you don't need to put grease on the back of the pad.
Click to expand...

Great advice. Regarding the pistons: I have found that every bike I have done brakes on (it's quite a few), the pistons can easily be compressed by hand, no tools needed. I have miniscule hands, too :)
 
For the oil change, my local Yamaha dealer carries an oil change kit. You get Yamalube, a filter, a new drain plug washer, a pair of rubber gloves, and a keychain. Oil is all about preference, but if you prefer Yamalube this is a foolproof option.
 
Dustin said:
Great advice. Regarding the pistons: I have found that every bike I have done brakes on (it's quite a few), the pistons can easily be compressed by hand, no tools needed. I have miniscule hands, too :)
Click to expand...

That is true. I always just turn them in though, it is quicker if you have the tool handy and don't have to look around for it. Most of the time the caliper piston doesn't have to be pressed all the way in anyway.

If you have never bled breaks before, you might want to wait until you feel more mechanically inclined. I wouldn't want to give you "it's easy peach" and you get an air bubble in there...

8mm wrench I think on the caliper, open the ressivor on the top, get a tube on the caliper niple and direct it into a bucket or water bottle. Squeeze the handle to pump the fluid out, and fill the res with new fluid, don't let the fluid in the res get low or it will suck in air.

You used to have to close the 8mm nipple before letting go of the mast cylinder/ break lever too. I don't know if that is the case anymore...
 
Chandler said:
Make sure to be mindfull when removing the filter, try not to get to much oil on you exhaust headers.

Breaks are not scary. You need to compress the calipers a bit. You can use a C-clamp tool purchased at Walmart for less then 10 dollars to do this as well. By some grease too, I always lube my pins and the back of the pads - old habit my dad taught me. In reality you don't need to put grease on the back of the pad.
Click to expand...

Do the oil change on the side stand and the headers should be oil free. I usually put some cardboard over them just in case. My first oil change on the FZ1 I did on the center stand and it was a pain trying to keep oil off the headers. I've done all the rest (draining the oil) on the side stand and it works great. I put it back on the center stand after draining for filling and checking the site window.
 
Brock Kickass said:
For the oil change, my local Yamaha dealer carries an oil change kit. You get Yamalube, a filter, a new drain plug washer, a pair of rubber gloves, and a keychain. Oil is all about preference, but if you prefer Yamalube this is a foolproof option.
Click to expand...

This is basically what I do. I pick up 3 quarts of Yamalube Full Syn, 15w50, filter, and compression washer.

1. Warm bike up to 100 degrees
2. Remove drain plug bolt located on lower left side (I use a sealable gallon size drain catch from Autozone, and in a pinch one time cut a used spring water gallon jug)
3. Remove Oil filler cap to speed things up
4. Remove oil filter with rubber strap wrench (also from autozone). Be careful about getting oil all over the headers.
5. *** I personally will pour about 1/8-1/4 of a quart of fresh oil through to rinse. This is probably wasteful and I only read it somewhere and it sounded cool.
6 Open new filter, and fill up halfway with fresh new oil. Rotate around to make sure that the oil fills all the fins of the filter and the rubber gasket ring gets some on it so it's lubricated.
7. Install new filter on bike. Hand tighten then give one good crank (5 pounds force) with rubber strap wrench.
8. Remove old crush washer from drain plug and put on new crush washer on drain plug and install on bike. Be mindful to just barely crush washer so not to break off bolt head.
9. Fill 3 qt. oil using funnel purchased from dollar store (perfect size and only a dollar).
10. replace filler cap.
11. Fire up bike and let run for a minute. Then let sit and check fill level on window lower right of bike while on center stand.

Have fun. I get this done in a little over 10 minutes now days (I'm pretty sure I changed the oil 7 times this last year).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top