FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Pretty much done with the light kit. I installed the headlight enclosure on the bike today and sat thinking where to mount the ballast. It has to be in a cool place that preferably gets some air flow. I decided to mount it on the stem of the instrument cluster. I used some high strength double sided tape from Radio Shack and also used two black electrician's ties. It's on there nice and tight and out of the way.
I spliced into the headlight circuit and decided to have them run while using the "low beams". On the GenI, the positive low beam lead is the "black/green" wire, and the ground is "black". The high beam is the "yellow/black" wire which in this case remains untouched.
I soldered and taped the connections after first running a quick test to make sure that they worked. I used heat shrink tubing on all the connections as well.
Once everything was buttoned up I cut the positive lead in half and installed a terminal end on each lead which now runs to the switch in the fairing insert.
Now the Halo's can be switched on and off while I'm riding but will only power up with the bike. This way I don't have to worry about someone hitting the switch while the bike is parked and drain the battery.
With my cheap camera and tuff lighting, it's hard to see them working in the photo but they are. The switch works great and I'll have better pictures when the bike is finished.
It's hard to see but I made a short video clip of the lights working via the switch. I promise to get better shots when the bike is complete. Thanks!
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI1icPkbq2I]YouTube - Halo Light Test[/ame]
I spliced into the headlight circuit and decided to have them run while using the "low beams". On the GenI, the positive low beam lead is the "black/green" wire, and the ground is "black". The high beam is the "yellow/black" wire which in this case remains untouched.
I soldered and taped the connections after first running a quick test to make sure that they worked. I used heat shrink tubing on all the connections as well.
Once everything was buttoned up I cut the positive lead in half and installed a terminal end on each lead which now runs to the switch in the fairing insert.
Now the Halo's can be switched on and off while I'm riding but will only power up with the bike. This way I don't have to worry about someone hitting the switch while the bike is parked and drain the battery.
With my cheap camera and tuff lighting, it's hard to see them working in the photo but they are. The switch works great and I'll have better pictures when the bike is finished.
It's hard to see but I made a short video clip of the lights working via the switch. I promise to get better shots when the bike is complete. Thanks!
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI1icPkbq2I]YouTube - Halo Light Test[/ame]
