Wrong Oil - What to do

Clyde

Clyde

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I posted this over in the "What did you do today" thread, but I think that's the wrong place (sorry, still pretty new here). Also, it seems that Search isn't working (I tried searching for "oil" and got zero results).

I changed the oil and filter the other day... first maintenance on the new-to-me bike. That's the good news. The bad news is that I discovered yesterda that "energy conserving" and "resource conserving" are the same thing. I knew not to get "energy conserving" but never considered that the industry would change terms and they were the same thing -- I thought that "resource conserving" was something related to the fact that the oil I purchased was synthetic (Mobile 1).

Anyway, looks like I'll be draining all that nice, fresh oil out this weekend and going with something else.

Hopefully three days and 50 miles hasn't done any damage to the clutch. Is there anything special I should do to flush the "resource conserving" stuff out? Should I run some "cheap" oil through for a few miles, then put synthetic back in? I'll certainly change the filter, but beyond that, I'm open to your wisdom.

I found a reference elsewhere that said to change the oil out now, at 100 miles, and again at 200. Putting 300 miles on the bike in November could be interesting in Michigan, but if I have to bundle up (and suck it up) to save the need for replacing my clutch, I'll do it.

Anyone else made a bone-head mistake like this? Suggestions?
 
Unless the clutch is already slipping I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just replace the oil with the proper motorcycle oil and call it a day.
 
I say just run some cheap oil (if theres such a thing) through it then add the synthetic of your choice. Assuming synthrtic is what you plan on going with.
 
If you want synthetic just go to Walmart and get Shell Rotella T6 for about $22 for 4 quarts. It's got the JASO MA designation on the back label. Drain the oil in it now and put the new in, I wouldn't worry about changing the filter again. You will be fine. No need to get any more complicated than that.
 
If you are over 10k miles on it...you can throw in synthetic oil..if not..make sure you drain every bit of oil down and then add the new oil. As many have already suggested, as long as the clutch is not acting up...you should be good.
 
Thanks, everyone... You've (hopefully) given me something to be thankful for -- that I haven't fubar'ed anything.

Being Thanksgiving, I have some family plans today... I could quickly drain the oil that is in there now, and put some new stuff in on Saturday. Any thoughts about whether it's better to get it out and leave the bike in my garage without oil in it for a couple of days, or wait to drain it until I can immediately put some of the right stuff back in?
 
Clyde said:
Thanks, everyone... You've (hopefully) given me something to be thankful for -- that I haven't fubar'ed anything.

Being Thanksgiving, I have some family plans today... I could quickly drain the oil that is in there now, and put some new stuff in on Saturday. Any thoughts about whether it's better to get it out and leave the bike in my garage without oil in it for a couple of days, or wait to drain it until I can immediately put some of the right stuff back in?
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Just do it all at once...there's no harm in leaving it w/o oil, but why get dirty twice ;)
 
There is not a big deal here. Energy conserving is simply a label some of the companies put on their lightest weight oils - and running them "might conserve" a minscule amount of gas.
But if you stick to the recommended weight oil for you bike you'll be fine.

These "conserving oils" have nothing devious in them to damage anything.
It is just another way for oil marketers to catch people's attention - the "green" people's attention.
What is important is that the oil container displays the proper weights and are signed off by all the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) ratings - SM, SL, SH, ... If they are - all is good.
 
lindy said:
There is not a big deal here. Energy conserving is simply a label some of the companies put on their lightest weight oils - and running them "might conserve" a minscule amount of gas.
But if you stick to the recommended weight oil for you bike you'll be fine.

These "conserving oils" have nothing devious in them to damage anything.
It is just another way for oil marketers to catch people's attention - the "green" people's attention.
What is important is that the oil container displays the proper weights and are signed off by all the latest API (American Petroleum Institute) ratings - SM, SL, SH, ... If they are - all is good.
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They do have something 'devious' for our bikes in their makeup, 'friction modifiers' for better fuel consumption in cars. In bikes that use the same oil for both the engine and the transmission this can cause problems with the transmission. I see no sense in tempting fate using these oils in a bike when the manufacturer tells you not to. Bikes need oils marked with the JASO MA rating.
 
Evitzee said:
They do have something 'devious' for our bikes in their makeup, 'friction modifiers' for better fuel consumption in cars. In bikes that use the same oil for both the engine and the transmission this can cause problems with the transmission. I see no sense in tempting fate using these oils in a bike when the manufacturer tells you not to. Bikes need oils marked with the JASO MA rating.
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I agree with your recommendation to follow the manufacturer's recommendation for oil.
All oils have additives. Those labeled "energy conserving" could possibly have different additives which could affect clutches. But light oils, in general, affect clutch operation. Light oils are those of the 5w-20, 10w-30, etc category - and are often considered "energy conserving" simply because they are lighter weight oils.
Since the additive question is unknown and very difficult to research, I will modify my previous statement to align with yours - though the additive question is unknown.
I do agree with following the manufacturer's recommendations.

Many people make their own judgements on oils and there are very many opinions. Many people will recommend nothing but synthetic - and there is good argument. But there is also argument that the synthetics are so much "slicker" that they are not good for clutch operation either.
There is much unknown and contradiction here. You will find people who have been using ordinary engine oils for many years with no troubles and swear by them - then there are those that say those same oils are disastrous for engine clutches. Contradiction....

What to do - do what you do. But it is wise to adhere to manufacturer's recommendations.
Note that the JASO rating is a Japanese automotive company rating system - not American, and possibly could not be applied to American oils -- and thuscould be another point of confusion.
 
I'm a bit lost here. The op hasn't said the oil had friction modifiers. I used to run Mobil 1 full synth in my RF900R. It was fantastic.
Providing it meets manufacturer specs I'd be leaving it in the bike.
 
2wheelsagain said:
I'm a bit lost here. The op hasn't said the oil had friction modifiers. I used to run Mobil 1 full synth in my RF900R. It was fantastic.
Providing it meets manufacturer specs I'd be leaving it in the bike.
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OP said he used oil that was labeled 'Energy Conserving'. From the FZ1 Owner's Manual, "Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher." Did the oil he use have the Energy Conserving II specification? I don't know. But there is a reason there are separate Mobil 1 MOTORCYCLE oils. From the Mobil 1 website:

"So how is Mobil 1 for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles?

It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the three Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have:

Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous)".

If you ran automotive Mobil 1 in your engine in your bike and had no problems, great for you, but neither Yamaha or Mobil approve of these automotive oils for use in motorcycle engines. I'm not sure why anyone would directly go against these 'suggestions' by the manufacturers when oils designed for motorcycle engines are readily available in all sorts of grades and brands.
 
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No my Mobil 1 was bike specific.
I guess we dont use the term "energy conserving" here in Australia. Most car type oils proudly announce friction modifiers.
That explains my confusion. Thanks. :smokin2:
 
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Oil

If what you put in was Mobil 1 for autos then you should change it ASAP. If it was Mobil 1 4T for motorcycles you are fine. Auto oils have friction reducing additives and cleaning additives that my cause harm to your engine internals and cause your clutch to slip.

I was informed by a "gold" level yamaha technician about oils and in fact he doesn't recommend any synthetics in Gen 2 FZ1's. He informed that Yamaha has had problems with some synthetics wearing off the coating on the valves and other parts and even causing valves to fail. The previous owner of my bike ran Mobil 1 4T 10W40 in my bike for 15,000 miles when I bought it and it runs well. The Yamaha technician said that oils that have caused problems usually show up within 4-5000 miles so I should be ok...but he did recommend I change to Yamalube Synthetic and even to 20W50 since I live in the south and we don't get the cold weather. Since my bike is still under warranty until March 2014, I will likely take his advice and use Yamalube next change.
 
oil one more thing fyi

The "gold" level yamaha tech also said that even though synthetics were not recommended in our bikes, that since mine has been running synthetics since new I should stick with a synthetic. He strongly advised NOT to use a non-synthetic after having using one all along since the vastly different properties and characteristics of synthethic and non-synthetic are not compatible. Hence his recommendation to use Yamalubes full syn oil next change.

I'm just passing along what I was told by a top notch very qualified Yamaha Technician...FYI.
 
sirreal1 said:
The "gold" level yamaha tech also said that even though synthetics were not recommended in our bikes, that since mine has been running synthetics since new I should stick with a synthetic. He strongly advised NOT to use a non-synthetic after having using one all along since the vastly different properties and characteristics of synthethic and non-synthetic are not compatible. Hence his recommendation to use Yamalubes full syn oil next change.

I'm just passing along what I was told by a top notch very qualified Yamaha Technician...FYI.
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There's lots of evidence and research that shows this is simply a myth with no hard data to support it.

This question was asked at a Motul tech session I attended a few years back and the response was the same: myth. They explained why in some detail but I've forgotten the technical details
 
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