2008 FZ1 dyno graph results w/PC3 map

rider1a

rider1a

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Just went through my first dyno session. The final numbers were:

143.7 max hp
73.7 max torque

My set-up:

K&N airfilter
Ivan's Air Box mod
O2 sensor deactivated
Scorpion exhaust slip-on
AIS removed

The rest of the bike is stock.

PC3 map here.

Dyno before and after below

fz1-2008-dyno.jpg


NOTE: The first run displayed in red is all of the above mods without a PC3. I gained almost 10 hp as a result of a professional dyno-tuning session.

Throttle response is much more crisp at all RPM's and overall highway cruising seems a bit more relaxed.

Fred
 
rider1a said:
Just went through my first dyno session. The final numbers were:

143.7 max hp
73.7 max torque

My set-up:

K&N airfilter
Ivan's Air Box mod
O2 sensor deactivated
Scorpion exhaust slip-on
AIS removed

The rest of the bike is stock.

PC3 map here.

Dyno before and after below

fz1-2008-dyno.jpg


NOTE: The first run displayed in red is all of the above mods without a PC3. I gained almost 10 hp as a result of a professional dyno-tuning session.

Throttle response is much more crisp at all RPM's and overall highway cruising seems a bit more relaxed.

Fred
Click to expand...

Nice numbers Fred! What do they charge for a professional dyno tuning session out there?
 
Nice numbers rider1a! Did you remove the catalytic converter from the header as well? That may be worth a few more HP on the top end with the mods that you have.
 
NJFZ1 said:
Nice numbers rider1a! Did you remove the catalytic converter from the header as well? That may be worth a few more HP on the top end with the mods that you have.
Click to expand...

No, I am keeping the CC in the header. I am very happy about the results. I also did not modify the flies nor implement other popular modifications.

As a result of the existing mods, the low-fuel light starts flashing at 140 miles. I don't want to increase my fuel consumption even further.

Fred
 
rider1a said:
No, I am keeping the CC in the header. I am very happy about the results. I also did not modify the flies nor implement other popular modifications.

As a result of the existing mods, the low-fuel light starts flashing at 140 miles. I don't want to increase my fuel consumption even further.

Fred
Click to expand...

Well those are good numbers so if you're happy with the way it is then leave well enough alone. That fuel range sounds about typical for these bikes. Oh and modifying the flies isn't going to give you any more peak HP. However, might give you some welcomed improved throttle response and mid-range power increase.
 
rider1a said:
Just went through my first dyno session. The final numbers were:

143.7 max hp
73.7 max torque

My set-up:

K&N airfilter
Ivan's Air Box mod
O2 sensor deactivated
Scorpion exhaust slip-on
AIS removed

The rest of the bike is stock.

PC3 map here.

Dyno before and after below

http://geologyconsult.com/dwnlods/fz1-2008-dyno.jpg

NOTE: The first run displayed in red is all of the above mods without a PC3. I gained almost 10 hp as a result of a professional dyno-tuning session.

Throttle response is much more crisp at all RPM's and overall highway cruising seems a bit more relaxed.

Fred
Click to expand...

Interesting that there is such a large gain in HP even though there is very little correction in fueling in the WOT part of the map.

AW
 
Thanks for including your map. I compared it to mine (Ivan's) and the numbers are so different you wouldn't believe they are for the same bike. Except fot the pipe (mine is a MIVV) our bikes are the same. When I get back home I'll load your map and see how she runs. I thought mine ran pretty good except I thought it was a bit rich. If your numbers are correct for our general set up I was right because your numbers show me that mine is very rich. Thanks again.
 
rider1a said:
NOTE: The first run displayed in red is all of the above mods without a PC3. I gained almost 10 hp as a result of a professional dyno-tuning session.
Click to expand...

Do you have the numbers for a stock bike without any mods? There is a lot of talk about modding the air box but I've yet to see the performance gain on paper.

/AGM
 
agm1971 said:
Do you have the numbers for a stock bike without any mods? There is a lot of talk about modding the air box but I've yet to see the performance gain on paper.

/AGM
Click to expand...

I don't want to link to it directly, but go here and take a look at the dyno charts on there. You'll see the that the 4th graph down has what you're looking for. Over a 5 RWHP gain from the air box mod and a race filter.
 
NJFZ1 said:
I don't want to link to it directly, but go here and take a look at the dyno charts on there.
Click to expand...

I've read this earlier with a sceptical eye since this is a manufacturer of mods. Also the slow throttle response was solved on the 06 models. I have a 08 an no such problem. The fuel cut off is still there and almost trows you off the bike when driving in the city. I solved this by installing a PCV with PC's map number M22-015-001 (stock bike). No other mod is done. I have no dyno test on this and waiting for May and the first track day to test this properly.

/AGM
 
agm1971 said:
I've read this earlier with a sceptical eye since this is a manufacturer of mods. Also the slow throttle response was solved on the 06 models. I have a 08 an no such problem. The fuel cut off is still there and almost trows you off the bike when driving in the city. I solved this by installing a PCV with PC's map number M22-015-001 (stock bike). No other mod is done. I have no dyno test on this and waiting for May and the first track day to test this properly.

/AGM
Click to expand...

I understand your concern and I can't really tell you how much of a difference the air box mod by itself will make. When I modified my air box I also replaced the complete exhaust with a Yoshimura R-77. Great difference in power.

One thing that I will tell you about Ivan is that he doesn't play HP number games. He tells you like it is. I know he may come across as arrogant at times, but I do appreciate his honesty. In the case of the air box modification he doesn't profit in any way since that is a mod you can do yourself for free. As for the air filter most of us have gone with the BMC one and you can get that from your local retailer as well or just descreen the stock one to start.
 
I really like the project that Duken and whittlebeast have under way. Charting the mod levels to coincide with maps is a question I'd posed back in the first month I owned my FZ1 (FZ1OA Message Board - View Single Post - Not again...Which Map?) and I'm glad they took it to heart and have made my suggestion a reality. Then, there's the map smoothing by whittlebeast where Andy has made some awesome strides on the way a map "Looks" with the visual presentation of the numbers. His smoothed maps are providing a much more linear throttle response.

Fred, can you use the same software that Andy uses and show us the graph of what the tuner's map looks like? Thanks!!
 
FZ1inNH said:
I really like the project that Duken and whittlebeast have under way. Charting the mod levels to coincide with maps is a question I'd posed back in the first month I owned my FZ1 (FZ1OA Message Board - View Single Post - Not again...Which Map?) and I'm glad they took it to heart and have made my suggestion a reality. Then, there's the map smoothing by whittlebeast where Andy has made some awesome strides on the way a map "Looks" with the visual presentation of the numbers. His smoothed maps are providing a much more linear throttle response.

Fred, can you use the same software that Andy uses and show us the graph of what the tuner's map looks like? Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Well, I took the map I mentioned and had it tweaked by another dyno shop called AF1 Racing near Austin. Based on their superior dyno machine, they removed about 30 percent of fuel at the low end of the curve and the bike rides even better with crisper throttle inputs throughout the RPM band.

BTW, I just installed a Scorpion baffle for the first time and look forward to see if the extra back-pressure will improve the low-end slightly.

The dyno operator said one can always expect LOWER rear HP from his system than inertia-style dynamometer systems. For those technically adept...

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From his web site:

Eddy-Current Chassis Dynamometer Information

To get the most horsepower and performance out of your engine, AF1 Racing utilizes the latest in dynamometer technology. We exclusively use the Factory Pro EC997a eddy-current low-inertia dynamometer. An eddy-current style of dynamometer is far superior to an inertia-style dynamometer (most DynoJet dynes) in terms of its accuracy and capabilities. An inertia-style dyno is a glorified accelerometer, while an eddy-current dynamometer provides real-world loading of the engine. Only a true eddy-current style of dynamometer is capable of step-tests, where the eddy-current brake holds the engine at specific RPM data points and measures HP and torque in real-time steady-state. Testing steady-state, where drum acceleration equals zero, is the only way to get accurate EGA data, True horsepower readings, and real-world loading. Having the capability to tune steady-state is the only way to accurately tune EFI-equipped motorcycles and flatslide carburetors.

....HP = (Torque x RPM) / 5252 and Torque = (HP x 5252) / RPM

An inertia style dynamometer measures HP and torque by calculating the acceleration of a heavy drum during a rapid sweep test. You cannot hold steady-state on an inertia dynamometer (accelerometer) making EFI and flatslide tuning impossible at best. How does one test highway cruise and part throttle when you have to accelerate the drum just to get a reading? An eddy-current dynamometer measures rear wheel torque with a load cell while the engine is loaded steady-state at any specific RPM we choose. Think of it like a giant torque wrench where the brake provides resistance against the force of the tire. After measuring torque with the load cell on an eddy-current dynamometer, calculating HP is easy. Horsepower is a simple function of torque and RPM.

Our dynamometer also features a super light roller that is quick to react to load changes and power outputs, which enables us to very precisely tune EFI-equipped bikes, and flatslide carburetors. Our Factory Pro eddy-current dynamometer is not affected by gearing changes, wheel inertia changes, tires sizes, or tire pressures. It reads True HP corrected to SAE atmospheric conditions. It is 0.2 HP accurate every single day, every single run ever done at any Factory Pro tuning center. We can accurately compare any two sessions any Factory Pro dynamometer has ever done. No other machine comes close to its repeatability and accuracy. Expect your HP numbers to be around 12-17% lower with our dynamometer when compared to inertia-type dynes commonly used in magazines and at other shops. Our machine can run anything from scooters, cruisers, HDs, dirtbikes with knobbies, two strokes, and AMA Superbikes.

Diagnostic Dynamometer Session with 4-gas EGA

Full throttle step tests done at specific RPM increments to measure true maximum HP and Torque steady state with 4-gas EGA.
Diagnostic steady-state step tests at various 75%, 50%, 25%, and 10% throttle openings and at various RPM data points with 4-gas EGA. These tests simulate real-world medium to light engine loads, part throttle cruise, and off-idle responses.

Idle mixture analysis with 4-gas EGA. Test will show how to improve idle quality
Printouts of data. All your data is archived with us for comparison to future runs.
Interpretation of the results and suggestions for improvement
The 4-gas EGA measures %CO, %CO2, HC (ppm), and %O2. Using a 4-gas EGA and not a Lambda (A/F) sensor is the most accurate way of collecting exhaust gas data. We have the only dynamometer in Central Texas that can do this.

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AF1 is simply the best, Micah is the master.

Fred are you using the PCIII or the PCV? I'm going to buy a Power Commander in the next few weeks. Any chance of trying your map out?
 
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