Ais

tombraider2

tombraider2

Wizard
Visit site
OK I'm getting tired of the pop pop pop noise. Watching Ivans Video I see one can just do the 2 cent mod. I think you still take the hose's off ? And then that plug in, what to do with that ?

And if you added a better air filter and did that mod would you still get away with NOT having a PC ?
 
Usually you can get away with modding one thing on the bike like exhaust or air box. Doing air box and ais removal wouldn't hurt it's just keeping the bike from burning the exhaust. you can get the block off plates pretty cheap in my opinion it wasn't worth my time messing with the penny trick I just got the kit. I think it was 20 bucks.
 
I just bought a 3 pack of rubber caps from an auto parts store. That will cover both intakes and the hole on the airbox. And I just covered the connector with electrical tape and tucked it back so it wasnt dangling
 
I have yet to do anything other than plug the the AIS air intake from the airbox. If you do that, the AIS cannot operate. The reason to use block-off plates is to clean up the top of the engine making future service easier.
 
You can just plug the hole that goes into the airbox and unplug the solenoid. Done deal. I used a wooden dowel, pulled the tube going into the air box, put it in the tube a little ways, worm clamped it and stuck the tube back onto the airbox. Very easy and no popping.
 
Now we are talking, All Great ways to stop the popping. And get that crap out of the way if needed, Thanks Guys.

So as far as the air box mod and hi flo air filter would I need a PC ?
 
What other mods have you done? do you have a slip on, full exhaust? If you have a full exhaust and you put a high flow filter it might run a lean. however putting on a filer or modding the air box without proper fueling will gain you nothing.
 
Last edited:
In my experience I plugged the air box and the popping continued, not as bad but still annoying. I am removing the AIS when I change my plugs in a week or too.
 
It should be fine with just a filter. Unless your going to be getting a Pc to go along with the filter you won't see any hp gains. Unless you need a new filter I would just leave it stock tell you get a PC
 
AIS Mod

I found that when i took the time to do it to just take the whole AIS out. PLug the port on the airbox with an nylon nut and bolt and instead of buying smog block off plates I liek to use what I have if Possible. I took off the factory plates and rouced up the inside of each port on the plate and mixed 2 part liquid steel up and filled the holes. let them dry put them back on and there u go. I also took a a piece of the hose from the AIS unit and ran it from port to port just to make sure no moisture could get in at all. . its perfect and didnt cost me anything because I already had the liquid steel on hand.
 
I at first blocked them with caps but later bought roth plates because one of the caps came loose and i also just like how they clean things up on the motor
 
I was going to buy the plates from somewhere... but then decided this is a simple fix. Cut the inlets off, clean and fill with JB Weld, file down flat. Done! Cost? $3.95 for JB Weld.

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 
Been to busy to get on this, I hope today to get it on the dock. Cobalt I like that very much. Where did your radiator go ? Can this be done with OUT taking that off ?

Did you guys add new Gaskets, or some RVT.
 
tombraider2 said:
Been to busy to get on this, I hope today to get it on the dock. Cobalt I like that very much. Where did your radiator go ? Can this be done with OUT taking that off ?

Did you guys add new Gaskets, or some RVT.
Click to expand...

I had taken the radiator off because I was doing a whole bunch of work at that time including a cooling system flush. It can be done without removing the radiator, it's just a very small workspace so it takes a bit more time.

There are no gaskets on those caps. I did use a thin layer of RTV though to be sure. :D

If you do go this route, a couple more tips... after cutting the pipes off the caps, I used a very rough file to rough the inside diameter so the JB Weld had something to fill/bond to without fear of it popping out. Next, be sure to let it cure for 24 hrs before installing.

To get the JB Weld close to level with little filing, I used duct tape over the holes and filled from the under-side of the caps. After curing, ripped off the tape and filed them flat. :tup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top