Cruise Control

ThomasL

New Member
I was very careful with the cable slack so I think/hope I have that part correct. I will try to get a look at my settings again (when I can find) them and post them up. A pain to access the box but I need to change it, so I will bite the bullet and open it up when I get home. :)
 

ThomasL

New Member
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I finally managed to get the settings from my Rostra and pulse divider.
Rostra. 1)off 2)off 3)off 4)on 5)on 6)on 7)on 8)off 9)off 10)on 11)off 12)off
Divider divide by 2

Is this close to what you have Blanchy?

Thanks
Tom
 

Blanchy

Active Member
View attachment 24561View attachment 24562
I finally managed to get the settings from my Rostra and pulse divider.
Rostra. 1)off 2)off 3)off 4)on 5)on 6)on 7)on 8)off 9)off 10)on 11)off 12)off
Divider divide by 2

Is this close to what you have Blanchy?

Thanks
Tom
All but 7,8 & 9 Mine set to V8 low to take some sensitivity off, I figure a V8 will require a lot less throttle movement/speed than say a 1.6l car to keep speed constant so I have 7 8 & 9 set off
 
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SkidPants

New Member
All but 7,8 & 9 Mine set to V8 low to take some sensitivity off, I figure a V8 will require a lot less throttle movement/speed than say a 1.6l car to keep speed constant so I have 7 8 & 9 set off
Blanchy and Thomas, I just joined, purchased my 14 fz1 this spring and am getting ready to put the Rostra cruise control on. I have a few questions:

1) Did you guys put your module in the exup location? I find that a bit tight, and with a little work I can put it flush under the passenger seat neatly in the rectangular hole already present. I guess I need to check that the passenger seat will go down with it there though.
2) If you did put it into the exup area, what did you move? brake reservoir?
3) I don't understand where you are setting your slack in the cable. I was going to mount a fz6 throttle bracket flush against the stock one to mount the cruise cable end, and I was even going to eliminate the need for the ball chain connector by making my own t-bar end on the Rostra cable end. Is this a problem?

To summarize what I think I've found:
* VSS pulses at 55000 per mile, so you used a divider in half. I have yet to get this component so I'll be curious how you set the division.

I have not actually ordered my Rostra yet as I have been wanting to be certain I can get this done before I do this...
Do any of you have pictures or written down the wire colors and locations that you found best to tap into?

Thanks for the info!
 
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Blanchy

Active Member
Blanchy and Thomas, I just joined, purchased my 14 fz1 this spring and am getting ready to put the Rostra cruise control on. I have a few questions:

1) Did you guys put your module in the exup location? I find that a bit tight, and with a little work I can put it flush under the passenger seat neatly in the rectangular hole already present. I guess I need to check that the passenger seat will go down with it there though.
2) If you did put it into the exup area, what did you move? brake reservoir?
3) I don't understand where you are setting your slack in the cable. I was going to mount a fz6 throttle bracket flush against the stock one to mount the cruise cable end, and I was even going to eliminate the need for the ball chain connector by making my own t-bar end on the Rostra cable end. Is this a problem?

To summarize what I think I've found:
* VSS pulses at 55000 per mile, so you used a divider in half. I have yet to get this component so I'll be curious how you set the division.

I have not actually ordered my Rostra yet as I have been wanting to be certain I can get this done before I do this...
Do any of you have pictures or written down the wire colors and locations that you found best to tap into?

Thanks for the info!
I put mine in upside down in the exup spot. perfect fit. The slack I set where the cable exits the Rostra unit, slacken the torx screws on the cable "boss" and measure the gap there with a finger on the throttles to check for movement. I connected mine to a crank off the side of the throttle wheel, as I wanted to make it as long as possible to reduce sensitivity. I went with a screw tapped through the crank and lock nut on the back. The screw goes through the eyelet on the end of the cable, not chain bits needed. There are so many wires, I'm not going to try and step anyone through it. Couple of things No LED Tail/stop light unless you want more wiring. To get the lights to work on the control unit, it is a switched earth/ground so you supply power to the control unit and the wire from the "Servo?" will ground when activated. Had me confused.
 

SkidPants

New Member
Ok, that's fine, I just wanted to know if you had detailed the procedure where I could find it. The bike already had the LED lights so the relay is mandatory... I'll give the servo in the exup cavity another shot, I have a junk rostra to fiddle with.
 

Blanchy

Active Member
Ok, that's fine, I just wanted to know if you had detailed the procedure where I could find it. The bike already had the LED lights so the relay is mandatory... I'll give the servo in the exup cavity another shot, I have a junk rostra to fiddle with.
Insert from the front.
 

SkidPants

New Member
Insert from the front.
Yep, I had yet to lift the tank up, it fit in just as you said, but a bolt coming up from the bottom plate might get cut down so I can slide it back another half inch, and there is a sheet bracket just under the clip for the battery tie down strap that could go away...not sure what that was for, I removed the exup servo but the other owner had disconnected it so may there was something else that utilized it once.

I think I have everything in order now, ordered the 250-1223 rostra kit, I already have a relay, and a Centrodyne Z063 Speed Signal Divider (Some guys had issues with the divide by 4 rostra version and this one has multiple options for the same price...not that I doubt your 55000 pulses:confused: But I'm always doubtful I guess. I'm surprised to see such a varied pulse rate even from Yamaha. Maybe this is just the result of differently geared bikes? Since the pickup sounds like it's installed in the transmission and not one of the wheels, I'm curious, guys that change out sprockets must have to fix their speedometer I would think.

Does Rostra limit your cruise setting to any speed? Or can you even set it at 35mph if you had the unlikely desire to do so?

Another thing I have just measured is the throttle body stroke, appears the that is only around 1-1/8, near the minimum the rostra desires, so I see the need for a different location. The fz6 bracket is probably the same diameter, just mirrored. So I did a quick aluminum prototype and this one as it sits appears to get right near the 1.625" the rostra can handle, I personally want to be just under this. I will probably move the offset closer to the throttle stop and put the cruise connection on this side of that bracket. I did manage to make the hole slotted in that by the way :)
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Kurt
 
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Blanchy

Active Member
Min speed for steady cruise is about 90kph 53mph? Below that its unreliable. Get the stroke as long as possible. Mine was only restricted by the throttle body bracing. PPM was advised by Norbert at Heal Tech that do Speedo Healers he also advised cruise to be wired in before the Speedo Healer.
 

SkidPants

New Member
One more thing, does your cruise cable manage to retract into it's sheath when you pull the throttle back? I notice some people zip tie the cruise cable to the throttle cable to assist it in the right direction, but you have to keep the cables really close to allow that to happen. I'm positive that my original idea of using the fz6 throttle rotatory will by design push the cruise cable out into a loop when it doesn't have any tension on it.
 

SkidPants

New Member
I'll update on my progress, but I think i have a concept that will pan out really nicely. Basically rather than act on the throttle directly I'm making a actuator that bolts to the throttle body bolt just above, as well as the throttle cable clamp. It creates a pivot point to the left of the throttle, with a arm that can push the real throttle from behind.

I find that cruising at 80mph the most the throttle is pulled is about 1/8" of length at the grip diameter. Basically, 10% of the throttle travel. So this new lever arm will probably only be capable of rotating the throttle 30% as I try to maximize the lever arm. I think the most leverage you get going under that throttle bracket brace is 1.5", but I think I can get 2.125 out of this other method. The upside will be that when the throttle is pulled while the cruise is on (or off) it isn't even moving the cruise cable....I do this by making the cruise arm only capable of pushing from the back side, and when it's off it's nicely pulled back and never comes into play at all.

A picture is worth a thousand words, so I'll get something up shortly if I really think I'm on to something. The cool thing is I think all this can be done without even removing the current throttle cables, not that that's an issue, LOL. basically if this works out I can't see the down side yet....except I will probably have to shorten the rostra cable end just because I want to fasten everything to this new bracket. Basically the rostra will only stroke about 1" tops, but considering I believe that it should still be capable of cruising at speeds far over our speed limits I don't think I care. My other desire is to see if I can get this system to cruise at speeds even lower than 55, just for the challenge. And even in the unlikely even that the rostra freaked out the most it could do is say 30% throttle depending on how I decide to hard stop it...it still would freak me out too, but I think this is heading towards a safer solution.

The framework bracket is a bit transparent, so you can see what's going on inside
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Blanchy

Active Member
Cables can stay in place. Just remove the 10mm nut off the flat sided shaft. use the flats to key in your actuator. You got a 3D printer? That would be fun
 

SkidPants

New Member
Cables can stay in place. Just remove the 10mm nut off the flat sided shaft. use the flats to key in your actuator. You got a 3D printer? That would be fun
No 3d printer, I'll just print it 1:1 and do my best to scribe it on an aluminum sheet, bend in a vice...
 

SkidPants

New Member
Ok, this is my first pass, I'm still optimistic. I think I can make it simpler, so I'll remake the outer bracket.

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SkidPants

New Member
Here is my second pass, I like how it feels. I have extended it so it hits the throttle body. Any twisting action the throttle does simply tries to rotate it into the body so I think the single bolt is sufficient.

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SkidPants

New Member
Almost started

Yeah, I didn't want to tie my bike up over the summer and then winter got really cold. So I'm just now starting to think about installing this. I did some more prototyping and stopped for verification on my real bike. But I'll try to document what I do, and final dimensions on my parts. But I still can't promise a timely response, and when I do I'll probably start a new thread given this one is quite long...
 

SkidPants

New Member
Mechanical Stuff looking promising

I know it appeared some might want to see a really slick way to hook up the cable to the fz1 throttle body, so I have created the following using the attache document. Just print 1:1 scale, and use it as a template to cut out of 1/8" aluminum sheet, 1/2" aluminum bar stock, and 1/8x1"x1" aluminum angle. other parts I used are:
1/4"x5/8 shoulder bolt, that has #10-24 nylock nut, a couple stainless washers, and 1 spring washer (prevent rattling)
#10-24 nutsert to attach cable clamp i got from rostra
cable barrel clamp

but anyway, just thought I'd see if anyone cares to see this solution...I could say more if so...View attachment all parts.pdf
what i like about his is:
* i can take all this out fr maintenance easily
* i don't even touch the original throttle cables...just a bonus
* very long lever arm for the cruise control operation
* it remains out of the loop until cruise is turned on
* if you were really determined to keep the air injection system i think you could, but installation would be more of a pain
as it is for me i looped the cable over the top of all the harnesses on the right and down, so i can remove the rotating assembly out the top without
even disconnecting the cable. but with this design you can disconnect the cable at the 1/2" rotating bar just as easily.

comments about the rotating arm:
* perhaps you might not know, but a carbide tipped miter saw can cut aluminum. It's not fun but it will cut cleaner than a band saw or hack saw. So that's what i used to cut the slot. The small cutout for the cable removal I cut in with a dremel cutoff disc.

comments about the side panel:
* The only thing really precise to keep is the distance between the mounting hole and the shoulder bolt hole. Its preferrable to keep the shoulder bolt centered with the rotating throttle where the cables attach.
* you can pretty much choose any other attachment style for the cable end, I used the clamps provided from rostra. but you don't have to be cute and do the nutsert, I just had some of those in my garage.

comments about the angle piece:
* this part i created by drilling two holes as shown, then bumped up to a final size of 4mm drill bit, at that point I was able to push the part sideways into the drill bit like a mill...not fun, and use vise grips!, but if your careful it will even look good...i had a bit of practice so that's why this one looks pretty good and fits like a glove. I didn't use the original lock washer however, but I think it will be fine. but if your concerned there are much thinner lock washer styles out there.


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SkidPants

New Member
electrical installation

So now I'm working on the electrical and would like to see if anyone has experience on the clutch switch and grounding the neutral safety wire of the rostra. I find that I can live with the assumption that my cruise will only be enabled with the kickstand up and certainly never in neutral so that leaves just the possibility that tapping the hot side of the clutch switch will not be a sufficient ground with current flowing. In fact, I measured this voltage to be 0.85V...so not fully ground but quite possibly ground to a rostra...I don't know.

So to make a very sure ground I came up with what might look like to complicated of a circuit but not if I'm correct to not tap the clutch switch.

basically, when the clutch is pulled in it also sends power to the "start button" so I use that power to energize a relay to put the neutral safety to ground.

the control relay is simply my desire to not have all these relays clicking with every brake and clutch pull when I"m not using the cruise control.
these relays i'm using are the smaller rectangular ones, not the 1" cubes you often see...will fit nicely with the pulse divider in the exup area.

any comments welcome... right now I'm simply waiting for parts, so I have a week to reconsider my order

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