Epic Failure: PCIII custom map questions

silentcropduster

silentcropduster

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Just bought a PCIII (mods are in sig)

I have tried 2 of the custom maps that Duken has. I'm slightly confused on my findings.

White Beast Stage 1
My findings: very smooth, bike needs 2 crank longer to start (not sure why?), loss in overall power, again not sure why?

Rob’s Map
My findings: Bike takes longer to crank, runs very rough compared to stock map or the white Beast stage 1. Does have more power, then white beast, but not as much as stock.

In the long run I plan on getting Ivan's ECU, full Yoshi exhaust, doing the AIS and air box mod. After all of that I will get the bike dyno'd to make sure I don't need any fueling adjustments. But until then I'd like to run a map that's better than stock. I will be accomplishing the full mods b4 next spring.

A few questions:

Do I need to disconnect the o2 sensor? If so why?

What other maps should I try? Tomorrow I was planning on loading up the PCIII OTS map for my bike that matches my mods 22-015-009

Should I just stick with the stock map?

I know that the maps on Duken's link aren't perfect and every bike will respond differently, am I doing something wrong, or over looking something ?
 
Generally, the best map is one you have made on a dyno for your bike.

Having said that, my own bike is running a combination of Ivan's map and a custom map I had done recently.
 
I don't know about the PCIII but you need to disconnect the O2 Sensor as per the instructions on the PC5. I assume it would be the same with both units. Why? I don't know why, I just followed what the paper said when I did the install. I don't imagine you'd be hurting anything by disconnecting it. Then I would go and put the map that best matches your mods from the Dynojet website and see if there is a difference. Basically start from scratch again.
 
If the O2 sensor is connected the ECU will try to correct back to the base map.

Did you zero out your TPS? If not be sure to do that. If not the matrix of the map will not align with the throttle position and send the incorrect signal for the given throttle opening.

The maps that are public can be a shot in the dark as most of them were not created on a dyno.
 
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I will try to do all this tonight. The pcIII did come w a spare plug that might be an o2 eliminator but I'm not sure. And to make sure I understand your telling me to simply unhook it? Won't that cause my bike to not run so smoothly?

Lastly a zeroed out pcIII map from PC...isn't it kinda pointless to run that?



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Yes. Just unplug it and put the cap on the cable. This will prevent the bike from displaying an error code.

Once you do that I suspect the bike will run better. Let us know. It's all for fun, right?
 
Hellgate said:
Yes. Just unplug it and put the cap on the cable. This will prevent the bike from displaying an error code.

Once you do that I suspect the bike will run better. Let us know. It's all for fun, right?
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The guy I got my pcIII from gave me the 02 sensor eliminator. I'll plug that in.

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Zeroing the TPS is not the same as a zero map.

Zeroing the TPS is syncing the closed throttle to the closed butterflies. You are telling the ECU "Yes, this is zero." Then the ECU will send the correct message to the fuel injectors as you turn the throttle.
 
Hellgate said:
Zeroing the TPS is not the same as a zero map.

Zeroing the TPS is syncing the closed throttle to the closed butterflies. You are telling the ECU "Yes, this is zero." Then the ECU will send the correct message to the fuel injectors as you turn the throttle.
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Gotcha. And for the cap that came w the pcIII u stated it will stop the bike from displaying and error code..funny thing it's not displaying an error code on the instrument cluster, nor has it ever lol

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When you disconnect the O2 sensor the ECU thinks the AFR (air fuel ratio) is off and displays an error code. That's why you plug in the O2 eliminator that has a resistor in to create the right signal for the ECU so it thinks it is always at the right AFR. The ECU corrects the fueling in the rpm range 3500-6500 between 0 and 40% TPS, or something like this, there is a table on the dynojet page that explains that exactly. The ECU will correct all PC changes if you do not disconnect the O2 sensor.
 
Dreamdemon said:
When you disconnect the O2 sensor the ECU thinks the AFR (air fuel ratio) is off and displays an error code. That's why you plug in the O2 eliminator that has a resistor in to create the right signal for the ECU so it thinks it is always at the right AFR. The ECU corrects the fueling in the rpm range 3500-6500 between 0 and 40% TPS, or something like this, there is a table on the dynojet page that explains that exactly. The ECU will correct all PC changes if you do not disconnect the O2 sensor.
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Understood thanks for the details, what u stated is pretty much what I thought but wasn't 100% sure. I felt like I was going full retard. I'll do it when I get home. why is it that some people do not disconnect it then? Sees like it defeats the purpose of a PCIII if u don't ?

Ill also research the TPS adjustment as well to make sure that's within spec.

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Some ECUs can run open loop vs. closed loop so one does not need to unplug the ECU. In the case of the FZ1 it needs to be unplugged.

For certain ECUs software is available so one can change settings.

For Aprilia, Moto Guzzi and a few other you can plug the ECU in and adjust away. The Yamaha, no luck. Suzuki on the otherhand is pretty much open source.
 
silentcropduster said:
Understood thanks for the details, what u stated is pretty much what I thought but wasn't 100% sure. I felt like I was going full retard. I'll do it when I get home. why is it that some people do not disconnect it then? Sees like it defeats the purpose of a PCIII if u don't ?

Ill also research the TPS adjustment as well to make sure that's within spec.

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Click to expand...

I do not disconnect the O2 in winter, here in Cali all year is riding season but in winter the temperatures are down to 40 in the morning and at night and then the bike runs too rich if the ECU can not compensate, the PC maps are only modifing based on RPM and TPS, one would need a temperature compensation to make it right. Some people did this but it is quite a mess. Yamaha did not bother about the map at low temperatures because most of the time the bike is in the ECU closed loop and the ECU will correct the AFR.

In my case the mpg went down by 5 in Winter compared to summer, well better let's say temperature < 50F vs T > 65F because I notice the same in late spring when I go to the Sierra were it is still cold high up. However in case you do not do a lot of cold weather riding just disconnect the O2, that will be the default for most people.
 
Disconnected the o2 and put the adapter on that came with my pcIII, bike does run better. What should the warm idle be set at? I assume it depends on the map? Mine seems to be 900 ish rpm. I'm currently running Robs map.

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