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FZ1 newbie. Valve check question

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Greg the Pole

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good morning all, Greg here from Calgary Canada. My current stable: 2020 NINJA 1000SX. 2019 KTM 1090R. 2021 TE300/GG, 1998 CBR 900RR project that i'm just about ready to set on fire...vids on YT if interested.

I'm currently going through a friends recent 2006 FZ1 Purchase (I needed a break from the 900RR PITA project). Seems very clean, 63k km. It's salvage titled bike (broken rad pipe, scratched pumpkin turn signal..that's it) , that needs the usual...stator (AND BEARINGS!!) , tires, chain, valve adj (more on that below) and odds and end.
Started a quick vid. thread on the subject if anyone is interested. Found some tasty stuff on the rotor..the shop changed in a newer R1 rotor and still wasn't right.

Question on valve check. Yamaha states IN 0.11-.20mm, EX 0.21-.025mm. I followed the TDC setting per the book (twice). All the valves, intake and exhaust have massive gaps.. 0.30mm goes in like a hot dog down the hallway..head looks spotless, spins with no issues, valve train and bottom end are spot on, am I missing something?
Will hook up my leak down tester and see what's what.
Bike has only ran for very short periods, and likely sat for a long time.
Vid here, I don't get into the valves on this one. I will post up a shortie on the valve issue.

thanks in advance,
Greg
 
Greg the Pole said:
good morning all, Greg here from Calgary Canada. My current stable: 2020 NINJA 1000SX. 2019 KTM 1090R. 2021 TE300/GG, 1998 CBR 900RR project that i'm just about ready to set on fire...vids on YT if interested.

I'm currently going through a friends recent 2006 FZ1 Purchase (I needed a break from the 900RR PITA project). Seems very clean, 63k km. It's salvage titled bike (broken rad pipe, scratched pumpkin turn signal..that's it) , that needs the usual...stator (AND BEARINGS!!) , tires, chain, valve adj (more on that below) and odds and end.
Started a quick vid. thread on the subject if anyone is interested. Found some tasty stuff on the rotor..the shop changed in a newer R1 rotor and still wasn't right.

Question on valve check. Yamaha states IN 0.11-.20mm, EX 0.21-.025mm. I followed the TDC setting per the book (twice). All the valves, intake and exhaust have massive gaps.. 0.30mm goes in like a hot dog down the hallway..head looks spotless, spins with no issues, valve train and bottom end are spot on, am I missing something?
Will hook up my leak down tester and see what's what.
Bike has only ran for very short periods, and likely sat for a long time.
Vid here, I don't get into the valves on this one. I will post up a shortie on the valve issue.

thanks in advance,
Greg
Click to expand...
Verify comp. Triple check your TDC procedure. Verify you are reading your feeler gauges correctly. If no damage then maybe that reading is correct. Typically valves will get tighter tho.
 
Done, done and done.
Not a fan of compression checks. Did leak down twice, and applied air direct to all cylinders. 2 and 3 can snap my hand off at 90 psi if the breaker bar is on the crank bolt. Showing very low for cyl 1 and 4. 2 and 3 are mint at 5% leak down.
I wonder if the PO skipped the original valve check. When I had my super tenere, the valves absolutely needed doing at the 1st check, but like you said, valves strech/gaps get smaller, rather than larger.

skip to 5.45m mark
 
Interesting. You thinking bent valves? From lack of adjustments.

Your video answers questions I had…seems like something going on in the valve train as you are rotated through TDCs alleviate any timing issues.
 
I think it's from sitting. No idea how long this thing was off the road. Tire codes are 2011/2012.. I ended up pulling the exhaust, checking that all exhaust valves are good. Straight and true, no signs of issues.
I sprayed a good amount of silicone spray down the intakes and exhaust. Let sit, and re ran the leakdown. All cylinders came in at 5% leakdown or less which is excellent.
Will change all the fluids, and have him run it. If it starts hard when hot, or low on power, will revisit valves. I think it just needs to be used.
 
OK, so this is a bit of a tangent from the thread... but I noticed this as I was going to the 5:45 mark....

The tapered side of the spacer goes to the tapered side of the shaft. It should sit flush. If it doesn't, you'll see the same gap between the outer cover and the case when you put the rotor back in. Tightening it back in that condition will toast both bearings. Ask me how I know... There is a long thread about this one...

This is NOT THE RIGHT WAY!

1742814866134.webp

Check out this thread for details:
1742815193605.webp
 
Blue Flash said:
OK, so this is a bit of a tangent from the thread... but I noticed this as I was going to the 5:45 mark....

The tapered side of the spacer goes to the tapered side of the shaft. It should sit flush. If it doesn't, you'll see the same gap between the outer cover and the case when you put the rotor back in. Tightening it back in that condition will toast both bearings. Ask me how I know... There is a long thread about this one...

This is NOT THE RIGHT WAY!

View attachment 35106

Check out this thread for details:
View attachment 35107
Click to expand...
thanks for the catch. I'll edit the video. Even though I read your write up twice.. I had it in the right way, and then for some reason put it in the wrong way. I tried starting the bike and something wasn't right. when I tried spinning the crank on the right hand side manually it wasn't budging. I only discovered my screw up. The left hand access cap was impossible to remove, because of the collar sitting the wrong way. Luckily, I only toasted the case bearing which comes out easy enough. It's not completely cooked, but I'll replace it with a new one. The inner bearing is fine. So my big lesson's learned is do not start the bike with the starter. After you put it back together, turn it by hand, plugs in, and make sure everything spins free.
 
Heya! I have the same bike, same colour. 15 000km... when I bought it last year... fully stock... Now I've put on about 3 000km and I've noticed a buzzing or vibration that has emerged. It starts at around 4500 RPMs... and you can feel it in the foot pegs and grips... really buzzes the wind screen... but doesn't seem to affect handling in anyway.

So I tried taking everything apart... nothing loose. The bike is mint. But now I'm wondering... could it be that Stator rotor or whatever it's called? Could something in there be causing the buzzing? I guess everyone here will tell me that it's a no brainer and that I should change that little time bomb regardless... So i guess I will... but even after changing my spark plugs, they were mint. This bike was owner by one owner, kept in a heated garage, and used very little. I'm guessing that rotor is mint as well. Or is it? A loose magnet might create that buzzing?

Appreciate all the help. These communities makes having a supported bike like this all that more valuable. Love it.
 
Mabus said:
Heya! I have the same bike, same colour. 15 000km... when I bought it last year... fully stock... Now I've put on about 3 000km and I've noticed a buzzing or vibration that has emerged. It starts at around 4500 RPMs... and you can feel it in the foot pegs and grips... really buzzes the wind screen... but doesn't seem to affect handling in anyway.

So I tried taking everything apart... nothing loose. The bike is mint. But now I'm wondering... could it be that Stator rotor or whatever it's called? Could something in there be causing the buzzing? I guess everyone here will tell me that it's a no brainer and that I should change that little time bomb regardless... So i guess I will... but even after changing my spark plugs, they were mint. This bike was owner by one owner, kept in a heated garage, and used very little. I'm guessing that rotor is mint as well. Or is it? A loose magnet might create that buzzing?

Appreciate all the help. These communities makes having a supported bike like this all that more valuable. Love it.
Click to expand...
The rotor is not causing your vibration. But change it asap. These bikes commonly vibrate in the fairing area. The plastic vibrates together. Mine did it just like yours around 4500rpm. It ended up being that little black piece of plastic under the windscreen above the console. FZ1OA had a bunch of threads on this. Try searching vibration here and see what pops up. Good luck on your vibration hunt!
 
nicoleto said:
mesmo problema da vibração, resolvi tirando a capinha de plastico acima do velocimetro e colei fita espumada nela oor baixo e resolveu .
Click to expand...
Lamentablemente, este no es el problema con mi moto. El zumbido también está en el tablero, pero no es la fuente. Le puse cinta aislante también y ayuda, pero no soluciona el problema de origen. Y es realmente molesto. Debo decir que le quita mucha alegría a conducir esta motocicleta. Surgió de repente en una moto que, por lo demás, estaba impecable. Desarmé toda la parte delantera y no encuentro nada suelto en ningún lado.

Sadly, this isn't the issue with my bike. The buzzing is in the dash as well, but it's not the source. I put some insulating tape as well, and it helps, but it doesn't target the issue. And it's really annoying. I must say, it takes away a lot of the joy of riding this motorcycle. It arose suddenly on an otherwise mint bike. I've taken apart the entire front end and can't find anything loose anywhere.
 
Entendo, neste final de semana como esta com previsão de chuva vou tentar desmontar novamente a carenagem frontal e tentar realizar algum ajuste.
Comprei as laterais pretas do aliexpress porque os originais estavam trincadas nos rebaixos dos parafusos, mas como não ficaram com acabamento perfeito vou tentar ajustar isso.
eu felizmente estou logado no pc e as fotos estão no celular.
 
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