GenI Fork Rebuild "How To"

FZ1riderNY

Moderator
I finished processing the video into two parts. It's not the best "how to" on forks, but I'm sure it will help out someone trying it on their own for the first time. If I missed anything or if someone has any tricks to better the process, just post it here. Thanks.



[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUuv2U_Ie7c]YouTube - FZ1 Fork Rebuild Pt1[/ame]



[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaqXQ1sz4Ec]YouTube - FZ1 Fork Rebuild Pt2[/ame]
 

FZ1inTX

Adminstrator
Well done Billy! Thanks for the credit too! That worked out really well.

Michele wants to know how many dents are in the table now? :D
 

FZ1riderNY

Moderator
Well done Billy! Thanks for the credit too! That worked out really well.

Michele wants to know how many dents are in the table now? :D
Haha! Thanks Eric. Tell Michele that the table is no worse for wear. I've done worse stuff to it and it's survived.
 

CBXR

New Member
Hi,
Well I really appreciate your how to "Video" things like your effort to do this makes it easy for new to the FZ1 Gen 1.
I have spent many years working on my two Honda 79& 81
CBX collector bikes. I have totally rebuilt both bikes including the forks. Your video just made servicing the FZ1 a walk in the park.
 

Cruzman

New Member
Hey man thanks for the directions. I only had two issues / questions when rebuilding mine from your videos (no clymer)

Issue #1 I freaking forgot the outer tube slide (the Teflon coated ring that fits just below the fork seal until after I had set the fork seal. Rookie mistake. Getting that fork seal out of there was not fun.

Question #1 was about the fluid level. I filled the first one and siphoned it down to the right height, but did so with the fork fully extended (the inner tube as far out as it would go) It took only a sec when I realized that I used almost a full bottle of fork oil in one for when I was told it would do both. Anyway, I figured out that you need to leave the outer fork tube in the full down position when you do your measurement and all was good.

Thanks again.
 

Missyl1713

New Member
I just stored these to my favorites, because I'll be needing to do this soon! Great vids my friend! I'm still scared! :)


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FZ1inTX

Adminstrator
I just stored these to my favorites, because I'll be needing to do this soon! Great vids my friend! I'm still scared! :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Missy, keep in mind that this is quite different than building our upside down forks. ;) We need the fork tool kit with spring compressor where they do not. I'm ordering mine tonight. Fork Spring Compressor Kit
 

FZ1inTX

Adminstrator
Yea, I'm gonna order that and I suppose I need the seal driver as well..where'd he get that?


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Here's the best price I've seen, cheaper than I got mine. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Fork-Seal-Driver/dp/B000WJGX32/ref=sr_1_2?m=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2&s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1332695766&sr=1-2]Amazon.com: Motion Pro Fork Seal Driver - 43mm 08-0124: Powersport Superstore[/ame]

Also look at the fork oil level tool too. $20 there is a lifesaver! [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Fork-level-gauge/dp/B000GZPCYI/ref=pd_bxgy__img_c]Amazon.com: Motion Pro Fork oil level gauge tool: Sports & Outdoors[/ame]
 
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Missyl1713

New Member
Got it. Gonna haveta order all my new little parts and pieces to, seals, etc. I'm debating on waiting till fall!!! :)


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kaosbandit

New Member
Great videos. I used these and my Clymer to service my forks for the first time today. I also added new Race Tech springs. Thanks for making these.
 

Prongomatic

New Member
Great Video. I just changed the seals on my R1 forks. I built the spring compressor, sleeve driver
and rod damper holder out of PVC. Everything cost me $5.00
Videos like this have helped me with confidence on tackling projects on my FZ1.
Keep it up!!
 

firefly

New Member
No doubt The initial video is very helpful for the DIY wanting to tackle Gen-1 fork rebuild, considering most of us don't have a workshop & have minimum tools, I find this video disassembling Yamaha vmax forks very helpful, I also did my vmax successfully following this video. the difference between the FZ1 & vmax forks is the cartridge in the FZ forks which does not require any servicing. the vmax has a primitive damping rod design.

This procedure requires no cartridge holder to loosen & tighten the bottom bolt since the pressure of the spring holds the cartridge from spinning, always use a new copper washer, I didn't even use an impact gun for removing or tightening the bolt on the vmax forks & since the tightening specs are the same the bolt should come out easy.

I would first start with the removing the bottom bolt, wrap duct tape around the axel holes so the oil goes only downward to catch it in a small paint bucket.

once the fork lowers are removed loosen the upper cap & remove the entire fork internals as one unit then proceed with the original video to complete the rebuild.

To do the final tightening of the lower bolt, put the finished forks in the triples and tighten the lower bolt to specs.

Morleys Muscle Yamaha Vmax Fork Disassembly.avi - YouTube
 
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firefly

New Member
A big thanks to YZFRiderNY I finally rebuilt my 2004 forks that had 22K on them, the video instructions were spot on & made the job go very smoothly, I chose to use Traxxion rebuilt stock cartridge, single rate springs & spring buffers from Glenn, use of a 7 wt oil as was recommended by Glenn.

The result is a very smooth ride, the forks swallow up road irregularities very smoothly, confidence turning a tight corner or a sweeping turn with a noticeable precision vs going wide with the stock forks. straight line stability is also enhanced at low & high speeds. best of all the satisfaction of doing it myself.

I previously posted a video clip of a vmax forks disassembly while the forks are on the bike, it did not work:( because the lower Allen bolt had thread locker on it & the cartridge would just spin, I needed to make a cartridge holder on the flight to loosen that bolt but when tightening it during assembly I didn't use thread locker and holding the cartridge was unnecessary.
 
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firefly

New Member
I made a much better cartridge holder using a one inch internal diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe available in any hardware store, heat the end of the pipe on the stove or with a heat gun & while hot press it on the cartridge nut but not too hard, pull the pvc tube and cool it with water. you will have it shaped exactly as the nut, drill a hole on the other end of the PVC tube to be able to put a screw driver in to hold it. much better than duct tapping a socket to a pipe.

For making a seal driver use a 1.5 inch internal diameter schedule 40 pipe, split it longitudinally so you have two halves, hold them together with zip ties or rubber bands and give it a whack with a rubber mallet or push it down hard by hand a few times.
 

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Oldnoob

New Member
I will not try that myself, but I need it done. How much will it cost? Estimated, difficult to find anyone who will work on my 20 year old bike.
 
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