How to: Ohlins, slip-on, AIS, front seat latch, trim flies, airbox mod , PC3

R

rc5695

Well-Known Member
community.webshots.com
Lengthy title I know, but I documented all these mods at once on my new-to-me FZ1, a 2006 fully-faired model. I did this a couple weeks ago, but now that I"m trapped at 2.5 miles over Illinois farm country, I finally have time to get it all online.

To start with here are all my mods:
-Ohlins YA-041 shock w/ hydraulic preload adjuster and 110 Nm spring
-gutted cat (previous owner)
-Graves slip-on
-O2 removed (exhaust plug installed and Dan's eliminator electric plug)
-AIS removed and home-modified covers (detailed below)
-EXUP removed and electrical fix from another forum member
-center stand removed (previous owner)
-integrated LED taillight (will be in next how-to thread of its own)
-FZ1 fender eliminator (not sure of brand, modded version of previous owner, also in tailight thread)
-flush turn signals (previous owner)
-~10% lower gearing (previous owner)
-K&N air filter
-airbox mod
-trimmed flies (myself)
-adjusted TPS
-synced TB's
-custom front seat release (don't have to remove rear seat)
-PC3 USB
-Sargent front seat and rear cover
-raised forks 5mm in triples
-ASV levers
-Zero Gravity sport touring windscreen in smoke color
-EBC HH front brake pads

I think that's all...Let the pics begin!
 
Started by putting the bike on the stands. PIC 98

Since I was swapping out the shock AND installing a new slip-on, I started with removal of the Delkevic. This allows much easier access to the suspension linkage bolts.

Start by loosening the 2 exhaust clamps (or lower exhaust clamp and upper springs if yours is so equipped). PIC 99

Next remove the hanger bolt from the footpeg and strap. This should now allow you to remove the muffler with a little twisting and pulling. PIC 01 ARROWS

It is more difficult now, but remove the pipe. Might need a small hammer and chisel if twisting doesnt' work. Be gentle though... PIC 02

PIC03 shows the cat the previous owner gutted. I was going to leave it intact. The O2 sensor you see is no longer in there, as I bought a port plug off eBay for like $5 shipped and installed an 18mm sparkplug gasket on it. Perfect.

PIC 05 shows where the low-clearance fit of the Delkevic let the pin rub on the carbon fibre and wear it a little pit. Looking at the upper arrow you can see where I installed a custom aluminum spacer to pull the pin up off the exhaust. The exhaust is just being held in my hand for this picture by the way.
 
Starting the shock removal, Remove the seats. PIC 06

Using a large Philips screw driver, remove the black side panels under the seats. An average sized one will work, but a large fits better for a lesser chance of marring it. PIC 07

PIC 08 shows it is easy to access the upper shock nut.

PIC 09 shows that you need to unbolt the rear brake reservoir and move it out of the way to access the upper shock mounting bolt head.

PIC 10 shows a thing of beauty with its parts all laid out ready for install :)
 
PICS 11 & 12 show how I used an engine hoist to lift the rear wheel off the stand ever so slightly, just enough to remove the weight.

PIC 13 shows the nuts removed from the shock linkage, along with the near-side plate removed.

PIC 14 shows the linkage arm hanging after removing the far-side plate and bolts. The linkage hanging does NOT have to be removed, but I wanted to make sure all the bearings were in good shape and clean, so I removed it anyways. The nut is on the opposite side on this bolt.

After removing the upper shock mounting bolt, PIC 15 shows my removing the shock out the bottom of the opening. See also PIC 17 from the underside.
 
PIC 19 shows all the dirty parts on the bench. Previous owner didn't keep bike nearly as clean as I would, but didn't do too bad for over 21k miles on it. If you notice, I like to keep nuts and bolts together on the parts they came off, that way there's much less chance of loosing anything or putting it back together incorrectly.

Next I cleaned up the linkage bearing on the bike's swingarm. I started by removing gunk from the seal. I use a small straight screw driver with very rounded edges to scrape away grime and gunk from the outside of the seal, and the inside. BE VERY GENTLE because if you push hard or catch a sharp edge you'll ruin the seal and have to replace it. You also need to be careful not to push anything into the bearing. PIC 21

PIC 22 shows it all cleaned up, from the right side. Keep in mind both sides need to be cleaned.

PIC 26 shows the spacer removed and new grease added. Nice thing about these needle bearings is that they're embedded in the plastic/nylon carrier and don't fall out or move around like needles of old. VERY nice! I only added grease to the outer area to help keep any water/grime from entering the bearing, to help out the seal.

PIC 27 shows the cleaned up inner race/sleeve re-installed and excess grease wiped off.

To clean up the inner race/sleeve, wipe it good and clean. If there is some corrosion on it (as you see on mine), hit it with some 600+ grit sandpaper lightly in that area only and it'll mostly come off. PICS 24 & 25

Do all of this to clean up the linkage arm bearings as well. Clean the rest of the parts with your favorite cleaner (Totally Awesome is mine). Since the bolt heads are near the chain, they will have some junk on them, along with the triangle shaped linkage plate from that side and the linkage arm. PIC 31 & 33

I also cleaned up the old shock for resale. It turned out well, but I'm not going to upload a pic as it is taking FOREVER on this plane...I'm going to work on the rest of my posts now, and I"ll come back and upload pics later from the hotel when it'll hopefully go MUCH quicker...

Oh, I sold the old shock on eBay within minutes of posting, for $42 shipped. Apparently it is the same shock that came on some GSXR1000's? Or it fits them anyays...
 
Next I applied a little grease to the bolt spacers that go in the front mounting bolt for the linkage and the upper shock mount. Then re-install the spacers part-way into the holes. PIC 36 & 37 & upper arrow on 40

Ohlins instructions say to install the shock up through the bottom, leave the remote reservoir and hyd. preload adjuster hang on the sides (lower arrows on PIC 40). I found it much easier to just put it in from between the tail & rear tire. First place a rag over the rear tire, hugger, and swingarm so-as not to scratch the aluminum shock. Slide it through bottom first, slipping the bottom down into the opening in the swingarm. I would recommend wrapping the res. and adj. or having someone hold them so-as not to scratch them on the swingarm or something. The res. goes on the left side and adj. goes on the right.

After slipping it in, push it up into place and install the upper shock bolt. Do not tighten the nut yet, just finger-tight. PIC 41 & 42
 
PIC 43 shows the swingarm linkage re-installed. Again, only finger-tighten the nut. You should have the bike's weight loading the suspension when torqueing the nuts.

PIC 44 shows the linkage bolts re-installed. PIC 45 shows it reassembled fingertight.

Next I lowered the engine hoist until there was slack in my straps and torqued the nuts/bolts to spec. PIC 45 & 47

Reinstall the rear brake reservoir. PIC 48
 
Last edited:
Now it is time to install the remote reservoir and hyd. preload adjuster. I started with the remote res., on the left side.

Start by removing the passenger footpeg. Mine had bolts/spacers left on it from the previous owner who must've had a rack, so your fasteners may be different. PIC 50

Install the black res. holder on the supplied aluminum bracket. Slip the res. in the holder, but do NOT tighten it down yet. PIC 54

PIC 53 shows me holding the res. on its bracket in position and the spacer that goes between the footpeg and the frame on the front hole. Be sure you have the right spacer (washer), as they are different thicknesses for each side.

PIC 55 shows installed. Tighten the bolts, ensuring the remote res. is at an angle you like and not hitting the tail section.
 
Last edited:
Next I positioned the res. where I wanted it and snugged up the bolt in the black plastic holder. Make sure the line isnt' rubbing on the footpeg. PICS 55-58
 
Last edited:
Now on to the preload on the right side.

Again, start by removing the footpeg (blue arrows). You'll notice the red arrow that I keep my bolts in place so I don't lose anything. The exhaust hanger must be undone for this step if you didn't remove your exhaust previously. PIC 59

PIC 61 shows the set-up.

PIC 62 shows it bolted down using the supplied new fasteners. I left enough room for a gloved hand to adjust the preload. If you don't care, it would probably look a little better tipped up at a little more of an angle. PIC 63
 
Last edited:
On to installing the GRAVES slip-on (carbon-Ti).

Install the clamp on the mid-pipe and then push them onto the cat (on the bike). Be sure the angle is correct for mounting the slip-on prior to getting it all the way on. It fits tighter than the Delkevic did. PIC 64

PIC 65 - Arrows 3 & 4 - Install the can and retaining springs.

PIC 65 - Arrow 5 - Install the strap.

PIC 65 - Arrow 6 - Loosely install the bolt in the footpeg/strap. The Graves fits really nicely on the INSIDE of the footpeg, whereas the Delkevic was on the outside. Inside it looks nice and tucked in, and has ample clearance. Not sure it that's where it is supposed to go or not? PIC 67

PIC 65 - Arrows 7 & 6 - tighten the mid-pipe clamp (7) and then the strap bolt (6).
 
Last edited:
I next removed the EXUP motor. I thought about doing this earlier, as it would've made access easier to the upper shock bolt, but wanted to keep it in place for picture purposes for this thread, as some may still have it and still replace their shock. PIC 68

If you were done, you could know re-install your side panels. PIC 69
 
Last edited:
front seat cable latch

I"m going to go ahead and show how I made a front seat latch.

I used a spring I had laying around the garage, along with an interior cable hood release off a '96 Chevy K1500 I had laying around. I drilled a hole in the "pull" end of it and installed a zip-tie for ease of pulling. PIC 79 shows it in place on the bike.

First thing I did to the bike was to remove the seat latch and put a small notch in it, just wide enough for the cable to fit in, and inline with the cable retainer. PIC 78

Then I had to drill out the retainer notch for the larger cable end. I then installed it back on the bike as shown. PIC 82

PIC 85 you can also see the battery tender connector I installed.

Here's a YouTube link to a crappy video I took of it.
seat release - YouTube
 
Last edited:
Now it is on to engine mods...AIS, sync, airbox, etc.

I started by removing the fairings & gas tank. PIC 70 & 71 & 72

PIC 72-2 you can see the 3 blue arrows for the connections on the gas tank/fuel pump. The red arow you'll notice is pointing at my tape labeling that these 3 are my gas-tank connections.

PIC 73 I removed the airbox lid, again labeling my connection for the sensor.

PIC 74 I removed the air filter and pointed at the 6 bolts to remove the OEM stacks to get the airbox off.

PIC 75 the airbox is removed and you can see by the red arrow I labeled the hose. The hose by the blue arrow will be removed shortly...
 
Last edited:
After cleaning the airbox I found a plug that fit tight in the hole for the AIS pump. PIC 76 & 77

PIC 87 shows the 2 hoses and 1 connector that have to be disconnected to remove the AIS. If you notice, I also removed the computer from above them in order to get at it easier. Only 2 connectors, 2 wire ties, and 2 push-pins need to be removed for much easier access.

PIC 88 shows the left hose removed.

PIC 89 shows the right one removed.

PIC 90 I'm pointing to one of the screws that needs to be removed to get the caps off.

PIC 91 & 92 you can see how tight it is.
 
Last edited:
PIC 34 & 36 you can see the left cover is removed.

Remove the right side in the same manner, other than it is harder to reach.

PIC 37 I used the Sawzall to remove the post.

PIC 38 I used a file to smooth it out and ensure it was nice and flat.

PIC 40 I used a penny filed smooth as well (idea stolen from another forum member and worked perfect)

PIC 41 Clean well.

PIC 43 Use your favorite 2-part epoxy to fasten the caps to the covers. Let dry overnight at least.
 
Last edited:
I filed the penny smooth again for a nice clean look, and found these aluminum Yamaha stickers to add a little bling, even though you'll only see them when tearing into the bike... PIC 45

Reinstall right then left PICS 46-53

Bundle the connectors back up. PIC 55
 
Last edited:
Reinstall the computer. first the wire ties. PIC 56

Then the rubber sheet and push-pins. PIC 57-59

Then the computer itself and connectors. Be sure wires are routed properly. PIC 60

Zip-tie the rubber back in place. PIC 61
 
Last edited:
Time to mod some flies

Start by removing the cover in order to access the pin. They need to be free in order to apply heat and remove them. PIC 63 - arrow 1 You can see I accidentally broke mine trying to reach the lower screw. I don't know how in the world you're supposed to reach it???

Next remove the pin and washer, freeing the rod holding them from the actuator. PIC 63 - arrow 2

use some heat to loosen the loctite holding those buggers. It didn't take much for me, but make sure you've got a good screw driver, as the heads strip easy. PIC 64

I used a magnet to make sure i didn't drop one down inside... PIC 65

PIC 66 you can see what it looks like with them removed.

PIC 67 is the Secondary Butterflies on the bench, ready to be cleaned and ground.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top