How to: Ohlins, slip-on, AIS, front seat latch, trim flies, airbox mod , PC3

To trim them down, I made a template the size I want them to be, 38mm. I also found some screws to fasten all 4 together to do them all at the same time. PIC 68 & 69

PIC 71 you can see them bolted together with the templates. I used red permanent marker to make where the rod goes, as this are doesn't get ground.

PIC 74 is trimmed flies and all the parts to reassemble. Trimming them proved to be more difficult than I thought it was going to be. My process used a 4.5" grinding wheel, a dremel, and a file. It sucked, and I wouldn't recommmend it. Just by them, unless you're very patient working with gummy aluminum... They looked pretty ugly in process, thus there's no pics in process...: oops:
 
reinstalling the flies

during reassembly, I magnetized the screwdriver so the screws would hold to it. Be sure to apply a little loctite to the screws so they don't vibrate out. I used blue, but probably would've used red if I had some... PIC 75

Once all the flies are back in, reassembly the tiny cotter pin in the arm. PIC 76

Reinstall the cover (used superglue if you have to : oops:) PIC 77 CLOSEUP

overall finished shot PIC 77 & 78
 
airbox mod

Cut out the bottom of the airbox under the air filter, removing the snorkel and greatly enlarging the hole. PIC 79 & 80

Reinstall the airbox. PIC 81 & 82

Reinstall the air filter (or a new one in my case). Be sure the metal plate is oriented correctly!!! PIC 83 Also note that I put a screw in I shouldn't have...
 
re-install airbox lid

This isn't tricky, but there are a lot of screws and connections. Red arrows are screws. Don't forget the screw in the center!!! Green arrow.

Also connect the sensor and the breather hose. Blue arrows
 
PC3 USB Install

Next was the PCIII USC install. I made a pocket if you will under the front seat. I used an old plastic license plate and trimmed it to size, using the stud from the EXUP to hold it in place (althogh I didn't really need to). I then zip-tied the Power Commander in place. PIC 85 & 86

This also gives me another small compartment for storage (gloves or something small like that).

Locate the white connector on the left side of the frame rail. Mine was burried down under the rest of the wiring. PIC 87

Unplug them and plug them into the corresponding PC3 connectors. Simple as that! PIC 88

PICS 89 & 90 show a place where a couple other wires are grounded just to the right of the connector, so I used that for the ground on the PC3 wiring.
 
Next was time to get the gas tank hooked back up in order to be able to run the bike and sync the throttle bodies.

First I unclipped the wiring from the hose, allowing a little more movement in order to lift the tank for access later. PIC 91

I put the ruber mounts back in the front of the frame, and put a rag over the rear mount. Set the gas tank ON TOP OF the rear mount, and screw in the front mounting bolts. They don't need to be real tight, since it is just sitting there and you'll be removing them again shortly. PIC 92

PIC 94 shows the reconnection of the 2 electrical plugs and the main gas line. The blue arrow shows that I didn't hook the drain back up, since it would be in the way. Lay it over the side so you don't forget it though! PIC 95

I used a piece of 2x4 to hold the tank up. It worked rather well. PIC 95
 
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Next find the vacuum lines for the TB's. They are plugged together (1 plug in 2 lines, in 2 places). PIC 96

Connect them in the correct order to the namometer? PIC 97

Be sure to let it warm up before setting the idle and taking readings. I used the PC3 to set the idle at the recommended 1250-1300.

The manual calls for 22.5 mm of mercury as the baseline. Set number 3 first, and then balance the others to it. There is a little brass screw in the TB's next to where these hoses are connected. They are very difficult to reach, especially #4!!! Especially when hot!!!

Before: PIC 98

After: PIC 99

Then play away with the PC3. MOdern tuning is pretty darn cool. You INSTANTLY know what your changes did in how it runs. PIC 900
 
Connect the drain now. PIC 02

Put the fuel line back in the clip on the wiring harness and remove the 2x4. Make sure no hoses are kinked. Doesn't seem to be as hard on this bike as it was on the FZ6...

Remove the front screws and the rag, then set in place properly and reinstall all 3 screws. PIC 03 & 04
 
Next I raised the forks in the triples, essentially lowering the front of the bike slightly. I've read quite a few threads on this, about it making the steering a little quicker yet not affecting high-speed stability. I figure i want to install R1 forks in a year or 2 anyways, and most poeple don't get the spaces to put it back to stock height, so the front get's dropped anyways, from 5-12 mm from what I've read.

After making the modification, I'm glad I did. I've not gotten a chance to ride it hard in the twisties yet, but the riding I've done it does feel slightly more nible. I've had it well over a hundred a few times (sshhhh) and not had any issues or weird feelings.

See pic 05 for the bolts to loosen. Be sure to take the weight off the front of the bike before loosening that last one!!! I used my engine hoist again, lifting on the handlebars. PIC 05

I SLOWLY lowered the bike using the engine hoist, just enough to give a little pressure to make the 5mm (.20") adjustment. PIC 07 & 09
 
custom slider mounts

I got these sliders cheap off the forum, planning on shortening them and using the engine mounts in the regular location. I have full fairings, thus the need to mod. Unfortunately, after making measurements, the fairing spacer is too tall and I wouldn't be able to cut the sliders down w/o making the delrin paper thin... Bummer... Other option was longer bolts, but since they are a special thread, and VERY long, they were going to cost a fortune. Strike 2 :( PIC 10

So i figured I would make some arms to mount them on, getting them just far enough away from the fairing mount with as little clearance as possible. I found some 3/8" thick aluminum bar in the garage and drilled a couples and cleaned them up. I wasn't too concerned since you can't see them anyways... PIC 11 & 12

PIC 13 shows the parts all ready to be painted black with Rustoleum. I"ll only use Rustoleum paint. GREAT stuff. I painted the front brake lever on my FZ6, and after 30+ thousand miles, it still looked like new!!! No wear or fade at all!!!

PIC 14.1 & 14.2 shows the fairing spacers trimmed by the 3/8" slider bracket thickness.

PIC 14.3 shows the parts painted and ready for install. If you look closely at the set I have assembled, I did it backwards as the slider mount goes UNDER the fairing mount. I wish I had noticed that before I installed both sides...: oops: Don't forget to put some loctite on the mounting bolts for the engine mount/fairing. I used a locknut on the backside of my new bracket for the slider. Those things sure were a pain to get lined up... :( but I"m getting a little ahead of myself here...
 
Next I installed the black side panel covers since I was done back there. Again, I recommend a large size phillips. PIC 15

Next install the airbox cover. PIC 17

Then the upper fairing side panels (whatever they're called). PIC 18 & 21

Next install the lower fairings. PIC 23 & 24

Install sliders. PIC 25 & 26
 
I also installed ASV levers. Here's some before and after shots. Hopefully you don't need much guidance here.... Just dont' over tighten so they don't move smoothly, but tighten as much as you can to remove slop. It takes a few tries to get it perfect, but it'll pay off in feel.
 
I also installed a Zero Gravity Sport Touring model windscreen in smoke color. I am happy with it. It isn't perfect, but way better than stock. If I were about 2 inches shorter it would probably be perfect, but as it is it does a much better job than OEM at smoothness and blocking wind from semi-trucks, even if it is a tiny bit noisier.

One note here, be VERY careful when retightening the stock screws. I snapped one of the heads off and had to order a new set : oops:
 
I lied, I only had the front one installed. I recovered the rear a couple days later because I thought it was going to be hard. Turned out to be super easy with a good HEAVY DUTY hand stapler... Here's the completed pics the seat and bike. The taillight will be in a different thread in a few minutes.

IF ANYBODY EVER WANTS HIGH-RES PICS, PM ME THE PIC YOU WANT AND YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS. I'd be happy to send them. It was a lot of work to do this, and I only did it to help others out. Hopefully it will.
 
Most excellent! One stop for all the mods for newbies here.

Why didn't you keep the centerstand? It is a lifesaver.

I think I will try the front seat latch mod next. I already did the EXUP shelf by myself but in aluminum

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I was actually going to do the shelf in some SS I have laying around when I have time (an old dishwasher face panel) but didn't have time when I was trying to get this done... Yours looks great!!! I'll get to it someday.

I would've kept the centerstand if it were on there when I bought it, but it wasn't. I miss it some, but it's fine having the lifts stands.
 
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