new owner, sorting things out...

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cjbottaro

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Ok, I've had my FZ for 5 days now... been getting used to its quirks and doing a lot of reading (this forum nas been great). Here are a list of quirks and my solutions to remedy them... everyone's opinion is very welcome.

Reluctance to lean
I'm having new tires put on Monday (Dunlop Roadsmarts, very happy with them on previous bike). If that doesn't remedy the situation, I'm going to have a suspension guy take a look at it. Might do that anyways just to setup the bike specifically for my body type, weight, height, etc.

Needs a lot of gas/clutch to launch from stop
I've determined this is due to the characteristics of an I4 (vs my old v-twin) combined with extremely tall gearing. Will going to a 16/47 sprocket combination alleviate this somewhat? Also what does 520 vs 530 mean? Is that chain weight or length or something?

"snatchy" throttle
I'm not sure if I'm using the correct terminology, but if I completely let off the gas, then reengage the throttle, the power comes back on very suddenly... enough to throw my shoulders back some. I have a 2008 FZ which shouldn't have this problem as much as a 2006, but it's still possible that it does... ? Solution being an FCE or flies mod? One, the other, or both? Flies mod is definitely cheaper...

too tall (bike is, I'm too short)
I can put my heels on the ground, but not with a very wide stance. I'd rather not mess with the suspension and kickstand and all that, I'm thinking about having the seat modded by greatdaytoride.com.

hard luggage
I like the Givi V35 saddle bags. Seems the two mounting options are Givi PLX/PLXR or SW-Motech Quick Release Contour. Any opinions on which to get (they both seem to be about $250... ugh)?

clutch engagement at my finger tips
I know the manual describes how to adjust the clutch cable but, correct me if I'm wrong, that adjusts how much from when the clutch starts to engage to when it is completely engaged. What I want is the move the clutch engagement start point closer to the handle bars. For this, I need an adjustable clutch lever?

Thanks, all.
 
cjbottaro said:
Ok, I've had my FZ for 5 days now... been getting used to its quirks and doing a lot of reading (this forum nas been great). Here are a list of quirks and my solutions to remedy them... everyone's opinion is very welcome.

Reluctance to lean
I'm having new tires put on Monday (Dunlop Roadsmarts, very happy with them on previous bike). If that doesn't remedy the situation, I'm going to have a suspension guy take a look at it. Might do that anyways just to setup the bike specifically for my body type, weight, height, etc.

Needs a lot of gas/clutch to launch from stop
I've determined this is due to the characteristics of an I4 (vs my old v-twin) combined with extremely tall gearing. Will going to a 16/47 sprocket combination alleviate this somewhat? Also what does 520 vs 530 mean? Is that chain weight or length or something?

"snatchy" throttle
I'm not sure if I'm using the correct terminology, but if I completely let off the gas, then reengage the throttle, the power comes back on very suddenly... enough to throw my shoulders back some. I have a 2008 FZ which shouldn't have this problem as much as a 2006, but it's still possible that it does... ? Solution being an FCE or flies mod? One, the other, or both? Flies mod is definitely cheaper...

too tall (bike is, I'm too short)
I can put my heels on the ground, but not with a very wide stance. I'd rather not mess with the suspension and kickstand and all that, I'm thinking about having the seat modded by greatdaytoride.com.

hard luggage
I like the Givi V35 saddle bags. Seems the two mounting options are Givi PLX/PLXR or SW-Motech Quick Release Contour. Any opinions on which to get (they both seem to be about $250... ugh)?

clutch engagement at my finger tips
I know the manual describes how to adjust the clutch cable but, correct me if I'm wrong, that adjusts how much from when the clutch starts to engage to when it is completely engaged. What I want is the move the clutch engagement start point closer to the handle bars. For this, I need an adjustable clutch lever?

Thanks, all.
Click to expand...

Let me see if I can help you with a couple of things

Reluctance To Lean...... Try lowering the forks through the triples about 7 or 8mm. That, and new tires should help turn in. Don't lower them more than 10mm. Thats a no-no.

Gas/Clutch To Launch...... One the GenII bikes it is easy to swap out to a 16 tooth front sprocket. That should help you. Just buy the OEM Sprocket for a GenI Bike 01-05. They swap out perfectly.

Too Tall......Another easy fix. Just look around for some "lowering links". You can probably find them at a reasonable price. That will get you "flat footed".

Clutch Engagement..... You adjust from the handlebar first. On the engine side there is an arrow or point on one side at the linkage and a "dot" on the other part of the linkage. Those have to be lined up for proper engagement. Just look on the right side of the bike where the clutch linkage is. You will see the markings.

Hard Cases.... Sorry, but don't know much about them. I run soft bags if I'm going far.

I hope some of this helps you out!
 
My comments below, but Billy already gave you some good info.

cjbottaro said:
Ok, I've had my FZ for 5 days now... been getting used to its quirks and doing a lot of reading (this forum nas been great). Here are a list of quirks and my solutions to remedy them... everyone's opinion is very welcome.

Reluctance to lean
I'm having new tires put on Monday (Dunlop Roadsmarts, very happy with them on previous bike). If that doesn't remedy the situation, I'm going to have a suspension guy take a look at it. Might do that anyways just to setup the bike specifically for my body type, weight, height, etc.

Lowering the forks in the triple tree as suggested above will make turning quicker and easier. I don't know how worn your current tires are, but if they are very worn in the center then I could see it being a little reluctant to turn.

Needs a lot of gas/clutch to launch from stop
I've determined this is due to the characteristics of an I4 (vs my old v-twin) combined with extremely tall gearing. Will going to a 16/47 sprocket combination alleviate this somewhat? Also what does 520 vs 530 mean? Is that chain weight or length or something?

Yes, bike is geared pretty tall in first gear. I recommend that you only do the 16T front sprocket and see how you like it. You don't want to raise the highway cruising RPM too much. I have the 16/45 combo on mine and it's plenty. The 520, 530, etc refers to the chain size (size and diameter of rollers). I would stick with a 530 for the street.

"snatchy" throttle
I'm not sure if I'm using the correct terminology, but if I completely let off the gas, then reengage the throttle, the power comes back on very suddenly... enough to throw my shoulders back some. I have a 2008 FZ which shouldn't have this problem as much as a 2006, but it's still possible that it does... ? Solution being an FCE or flies mod? One, the other, or both? Flies mod is definitely cheaper...

All Gen II bikes have the "snatchy" throttle. The '06 was the worst, but as you have found out the '08 also has it. Only real solution is the FCE...

too tall (bike is, I'm too short)
I can put my heels on the ground, but not with a very wide stance. I'd rather not mess with the suspension and kickstand and all that, I'm thinking about having the seat modded by greatdaytoride.com.

The stock seat doesn't have much padding so your only solution might be a lowering link as suggested above.

hard luggage
I like the Givi V35 saddle bags. Seems the two mounting options are Givi PLX/PLXR or SW-Motech Quick Release Contour. Any opinions on which to get (they both seem to be about $250... ugh)?

I don't have hard luggage on mine, but the good setup seems to be Givi V35s.
clutch engagement at my finger tips
I know the manual describes how to adjust the clutch cable but, correct me if I'm wrong, that adjusts how much from when the clutch starts to engage to when it is completely engaged. What I want is the move the clutch engagement start point closer to the handle bars. For this, I need an adjustable clutch lever?

The manual just tells you how to adjust the clutch freeplay. You'll need adjustable levers to accomplish what your after. There are cheap Pazzo knockoffs on eBay that so far people seem to like. I have Pazzos on mine and I love the adjustability, but they are quite pricey. I bought mine used for half the price of new ones ;)
Thanks, all.
Click to expand...
 
Lean- Rasing the rear will help. Consullt your suspension guy on this one. I went to Traxxion and was very happy with the results!

Needs gas- 16 tooth does help but it will never have the bottom end of a v twin!

Snatch- FCE will fix it but I found that I learned to ride around it.

Tall- PM Troy W he has lowered his and can give the best advice on how to go about doing it properly.

Hard bags- Not my thing but I am sure someone will chime in!

Clutch- Not sure on that one...

Finaly welcome and enjoy the bike. It can be anything you want it to be!
 
Leaning - counter steer

Throttle - Power Commander V and dyno tune by AF1 Racing in New Branfels.

Bags - TourMaster - $150.00 for the large ones.
 
All great advice above.

Remember what Blavenia told you though: You will never confuse your SV with this bike. This is a totally different bike than what you had before. Your previous bike was a very fine bike but the FZ1, IMO, is a much more powerful and aggressive bike that requires that much more skill to see its potential. You will need to learn to move your throttle hand in very precise movements, both throttling up and down, because even tiny movements will translate to powerful changes. Don't worry too much about this because the more you ride the bike the more you'll incorporate it into automatic movements.

The same with leaning. Change the tires, check the suspension, but I'm going to go out on a limb here and say you're probably a little cautious right now about leaning the bike since it sits taller for you. Believe me, the FZ1 will lean if you want it to. I switched rides with a guy who had a Buell that sat very tall and I know I was reluctant to lean it at first because, although I could flat foot the FZ no problem I was on my toes on that bike. Again, give it more seat time and you'll get used to it. Once you fully realize what this bike can and will do you're sure to forget most of your past rides.
 
Krispy1 said:
Finaly welcome and enjoy the bike. It can be anything you want it to be!
Click to expand...
Yup, that's why I got it. Learning to love it... :)

Hellgate said:
Leaning - counter steer
Click to expand...
Well obviously... but what I'm trying to say (also replying to Norm) is that it takes *a lot* more effort to counter steer. My friend (also an SV owner), who is 6' or higher and outweighs me by 75 lbs or so, also immediately noticed the difference.

To be clear, I'm not saying the FZ has less capability to turn, in fact, I'm pretty sure it will outperform the SV in every way... I'm only talking about the amount of effort to get it to turn.

It could just be characteristic of a bigger, heavier bike with a longer wheel base and wider tires. The SV/FZ comparison might be somewhat comparable to my friend's S2000 vs my Corvette. His S2K feels like a go-kart. It's *extremely* responsive to steering input. My Vette has a longer wheelbase and is more stable in long sweeping corners, but you have to give it bigger steering inputs and it doesn't respond as quickly. ... but that isn't to say the Vette isn't fantastic on a (road) race track... cuz it is... :)

Either way, like yall say... the FZ can be whatever you want it to be. It'll just take a little tinkering (and unfortunately, money) to get it dialed in just the way I want... :)

I'll eventually do all the things mentioned in this thread and will post my impressions for each of them. :cheers:
 
I've found even on my 2006 using very very fine throttle adjustments mitigates the snatchiness somewhat.

+1 on the adjustable clutch lever - I had to also change the clutch cable adjustment quite a lot to get it all lined up properly but afterwards the clutch friction point was much closer to the bars.

FDB pazzo knockoffs I got.
 
Apparently the FZ turns quicker than the R1, a friend rode mine and actually commented on how quickly it turns, too quickly he thought. Don't waste your time on the STd shock, it's early 80's technology and is the weak link. Nothing will fix it, other than another unit.
 
cjbottaro said:
It could just be characteristic of a bigger, heavier bike with a longer wheel base and wider tires. The SV/FZ comparison might be somewhat comparable to my friend's S2000 vs my Corvette. His S2K feels like a go-kart. It's *extremely* responsive to steering input. My Vette has a longer wheelbase and is more stable in long sweeping corners, but you have to give it bigger steering inputs and it doesn't respond as quickly
Click to expand...

You may have pin pointed it with this comparison. I'm still very curious about how it handles with new tires. I've seen at least 3 bikes whose characteristics changed drastically (for the better) when the old poor tires were switched out for new ones. And don't worry about offending us if your other bike did some things better than the FZ. That's the great thing about bikes: They all have their own personalities (read some of my old threads if you have nothing (and I mean nothing) better to do) and these personalities mesh differently with us depending on our personalities. Just don't give up on the bike too fast because its on most people's lists as the best all around bike ever made.
 
Talk with your suspension guy because raising the rear will improve turn in. The penske shock I have is slightly longer than the stock shock even with the ride hight adjuster set to it's lowest point and it made a big difference in turn in.
 
I would recommend Michelin Pilot road 2 tires for your turn in problem. They are my favorite tire out there for wear and grip. I have the Givi v35 bags and the SW quick release mounts. What you need to decide is if you want to have a trunk or not. The Givi mounting system requires the trunk mount even if you don't want to use it. I personally prefer the SW. I have the Levers from Ride it forever and I love them. Ivans FCE for the snatchy throttle.
 
Jamieb said:
I would recommend Michelin Pilot road 2 tires for your turn in problem. They are my favorite tire out there for wear and grip. I have the Givi v35 bags and the SW quick release mounts. What you need to decide is if you want to have a trunk or not. The Givi mounting system requires the trunk mount even if you don't want to use it. I personally prefer the SW. I have the Levers from Ride it forever and I love them. Ivans FCE for the snatchy throttle.
Click to expand...

+1 I also like having the pilot power on mine. It just takes time getting used to the bike. I am on my second season with the FZ and love it even more then the first because I got alot more comfortable with the height and lean angles. I know I should adjust the suspension but really can't complain about the ride for street use. Now if I was on the track yes I would definitely look into a new setup but for now this is a great bike and wouldn't trade it for anything. Welcome have fun getting to know your new ride.:cheers:
 
Jamieb said:
I would recommend Michelin Pilot road 2 tires for your turn in problem. They are my favorite tire out there for wear and grip. I have the Givi v35 bags and the SW quick release mounts. What you need to decide is if you want to have a trunk or not. The Givi mounting system requires the trunk mount even if you don't want to use it. I personally prefer the SW. I have the Levers from Ride it forever and I love them. Ivans FCE for the snatchy throttle.
Click to expand...

I have lots of questions about the Givi luggage and SW mounts... :D

So my main motivation for getting hard luggage is security. I go rock climbing and I want to be able to ride to the crag and lock up all my stuff in the hard luggage and not having to worry about it. I also ride my bike to and from work and carry a laptop. It would be nice to run errands on the way home and just leave my laptop locked up in the saddle bags.

From what I can tell, the SW quick release system comes with optional keyed quick release locks, but this is only to lock the mounting racks to the bike. What locks the Givi cases to the mounting racks? Also what locks the Givi cases shut?

Also, it looks like the Givi cases are side opening, and thus require you to remove them from the mounting racks before you pack/unpack them. Is this a pain in the ass in any way? I'm a very lazy person. If anything is even slightly inconvenient, I just won't do it / use it. :shame:

Thanks for the info.
 
AussieFZ1S said:
I've found even on my 2006 using very very fine throttle adjustments mitigates the snatchiness somewhat.

+1 on the adjustable clutch lever - I had to also change the clutch cable adjustment quite a lot to get it all lined up properly but afterwards the clutch friction point was much closer to the bars.

FDB pazzo knockoffs I got.
Click to expand...

X2 on the FDB's, I really like them, can't beat the price!
 
I too just got on the FZ. I set the sag and dialed in the rebound a little. made a huge dif on how it tracks. It will never never have the same traits as the SV. I love a v twin but always enjoyed a liter class sports bike. This seems to fill my need and is more comfy than my old gixxer 1000. I am old and want my comfort these days. Thanks, Chris in Little Rock
 
The racks lock to the bike and the bags lock to the rack. You do not have to remove the bags to open them and they have been water tight in the months that I have had them. They sell dry bags for them but I have not had a need for them as of yet. The pics show the optional rack lock, the lock for the bags and the bags open and closed. Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
Update...

The new tires fixed everything... :p The old ones were worn past the wear indicators (like you couldn't even see them). Now the bike wants to fall over in the corners.

It even seemed to alleviate the vibration at around 5k rpm somewhat.

Kind of ironic... I was actually getting used to the stability that I was complaining about before... :p

Still going to take it to suspension guy since it's only $50 for a basic setup. Might as well get it dialed in properly for my height, weight and body type.

Happy camper now.
 
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