PC-V Dual map & switch?

whittlebeast said:
The thing is when you look at the data later, is is only a small section on the fuel map that is effected. From about 4000 to 5500 and from about 50 KPA to about 75 KPA. Right in the center of the cruse range. If it was mechanical, I would think it would be more wide spread. Killing the motor and restarting fixes it. Now, the way I have my bike set up, it is getting fairly hard to spot wile riding as the auto tune will fix it in about 3 sec on the fly.

Look at the field [PC5 Fuel Adj] in that plot, shown as green at the bottom of that trace.

Beast
Click to expand...

Still sounds freaking annoying! Does anyone else's bike do this?
 
whittlebeast said:
The thing is when you look at the data later, is is only a small section on the fuel map that is effected. From about 4000 to 5500 and from about 50 KPA to about 75 KPA. Right in the center of the cruse range. If it was mechanical, I would think it would be more wide spread. Killing the motor and restarting fixes it. Now, the way I have my bike set up, it is getting fairly hard to spot wile riding as the auto tune will fix it in about 3 sec on the fly.

Look at the field [PC5 Fuel Adj] in that plot, shown as green at the bottom of that trace.

Beast
Click to expand...

Hey Mate, I have AutoTune / PCV on my cycle also and unless I missed something A/T doesn't correct anything on the fly. It gives you correction trim accordingly to the fuel table (A/F Ratio) that you previously set. Then once you plug in your PC, you can accept the trim or not.
 
Marthy said:
Hey Mate, I have AutoTune / PCV on my cycle also and unless I missed something A/T doesn't correct anything on the fly. It gives you correction trim accordingly to the fuel table (A/F Ratio) that you previously set. Then once you plug in your PC, you can accept the trim or not.
Click to expand...

Yeah so it's just adding a closed loop feedback for correcting the A/F ratio wandering off... Not really auto tune unless your adjusting where you want the A/F ratio...
 
Marthy said:
Hey Mate, I have AutoTune / PCV on my cycle also and unless I missed something A/T doesn't correct anything on the fly. It gives you correction trim accordingly to the fuel table (A/F Ratio) that you previously set. Then once you plug in your PC, you can accept the trim or not.
Click to expand...

Correct on the fly is exactly what closed loop tuning is by definition.

You will see this happening with your setup (if you were to catch it) as your trims for the last 10 rides always run about +/- a few percent. Then on the 11th ride, the trims in one relatively small area jump 5-8 points. If you are still running throttle based tuning, this may get tough to spot the pattern. I never run TPS based tuning any more below 15% throttle.

Beast
 
I wonder if that's a emissions or fuel economy thing when you get that shift ?

Steady throttle in the cruise range going a touch leaner could be for economy or maybe that's a testing area when they test the emissions .

Not sure but I think some of the emission testing is done at set points. I remember reading a few years back in some magazines that many bikes had a lean spot around 3500ish because that was a emissions testing rpm.
 
whittlebeast said:
Correct on the fly is exactly what closed loop tuning is by definition.

You will see this happening with your setup (if you were to catch it) as your trims for the last 10 rides always run about +/- a few percent. Then on the 11th ride, the trims in one relatively small area jump 5-8 points. If you are still running throttle based tuning, this may get tough to spot the pattern. I never run TPS based tuning any more below 15% throttle.

Beast
Click to expand...

So if I understand correctly you're not using the TPS to tune but a MAP sensor? I'm going to the Dyno on the 6th of next month so that should fix all my problem. But if adding a MAP sensor can correct it on the fly... why not. So all the correction goes in the pressure table instead once you get your TPS/RPM base maps. Kind of a 3D map?

Thanks for your help.
 
whittlebeast said:
Yep, MAP based below 15 pct throttle. TPS based 15 and above.

Autotune on the MAP side only 50 kpa to 15 pct throttle.

Beast
Click to expand...

Interesting... I'll look into it. What's the PN#/Brand of your MAP sensor if you don't mind. Do I need any pressure/voltage numbers to calibrate. Is there any pressure correction map to get me started? Sorry Mate for all the questions. :wilynily:
 
I use a PLX MAP sensor. It uses 0 volts = 0 KPA and 1.66 volts = 100 KPA

see http://www.plxdevices.com/product_info.php?id=SEMOSMVB

BV_Analog.png


Beast
 
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Marty

I have a starting PCV map all set up for this sort of tuning. If you get an LCD-100 or LCD-200, you can cancel the trip to the dyno and you may never go to one again.

Have fun tuning.

Beast
 
whittlebeast said:
Marty

I have a starting PCV map all set up for this sort of tuning. If you get an LCD-100 or LCD-200, you can cancel the trip to the dyno and you may never go to one again.

Have fun tuning.

Beast
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Let me think about it. Does the LCD is a must have or it will make things better? What I've been doing when I want to tune is carry my laptop in the top case and ride/stop and tune. My ride run great under 20% throttle, just can't get the AT to do the job right above that. Or not as good as I would like too.

I was able to come up with a very good map for my exhaust set up (Marthy Motorcycle Exhaust Solution - Home) and to be honest with you a bunch of member on the FZ6R forum have been using some of my maps. But since I did swap the cams (FZ6) I just can nail it as good as I did before.

I will do the Dyno no matter what. Can't wait to see how much ponies I gain with all the mods. And about my website... I got to a point where I either have to quit my day job replying email or put all the info and maps at one place... LOL
 
The LCD sure makes things easier. Add $40 for MegaLogViewer HD and you get a mother load of info off any bike you are tuning. Even if the bike is on the track.

By plotting RPM/Sec or MPH/Sec you can even get torque curves from real world data.

Beast
 
Humm. All sound good. I might go that route next time. Now I'm just trying to move mountain to break the 80 WHP mark. Can't wait to get a real bike... lol
 
Marthy said:
You don't need a switch to do that with the PCV since you can map your bike per gear. The way I did mine is Gear1-3 are "Sport Maps" and 4-6 are "Touring Maps" What I did with the Touring map is leaning under 40% throttle. (13.8 with Auto Tune, that work like crap by the way) and keep the same map for hard acceleration.
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40% throttle is DEEP into the throttle. You need to be around around 12.8-13.2 AFR at 15% throttle or above. In my opinion, you would be way ahead going to MAP based tuning.

Running down the highway (where all the MPG stuff happens) is in the 8-10% throttle range. That was running on the highway at 4500 RPM with the throttle locked.

see http://www.ncs-stl.com/pc5wb/SteppingAFR2.png

Beast
 
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I'll get the sensor and harness then wire it up to the PCV. If you don't mind sending me the MAP file so I can start with it that would be awesome. My little girl spin between 6-7K on hwy. That's 70-80 MPH... and that's +1 on the front.

Thanks!

[email protected]
 
Those were numbers off my FZ1. Are we talking about a 600 here? If you start with my map, it is maxed out at 13000. You will be able to see how I set it up anyway.

Beast
 
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