Why am i shaking past 95mph???

Maybe lose one or two of your helmet cams

FUNNY.jpg
 
really? What about the cracked frames? Yamaha did nothing pro-active, leaving it up to the customer to call them.
It seems to me that there are always examples of corps putting profit ahead of safety. Profits when every time and you know it as well as i. And selling inventory is more profitable than throwing them out.

Good point :)



" and which is it? No degradation or significant degradation? Your position was that there wasnt any noticeable degradation. Those 2 qualifiers are significantly different."

No significant degradation.... As in 99.9% of street riders could never tell the difference. I think i was pretty clear about that.



"Ive never claimed to be anyone other than who i am. I can tell the difference when i raced (again, back in the day). And whether or not you can "tell the difference" is the tire, it will effect the handleing, leading to uncertainty as to what the cause is, i.e. Our op."

I'm sure top level racers could and would notice a a small loss of performance.............. And i bet if i gathered everyone of them we could all fit on a bus to Atlantic City .





"You either missed the point or dont want to admit it. It doesnt matter what bike its on. Its the feel that it imparts. A fresh tire handles better than an older tire. "

I'd bet my bottom dollar 99.999999% of street riders could never tell a 2 day from a 2 year old tire if blindfolded

( a properly stored tire )




"what "special coating" is there? You mean the mold release?"
( not my statement )


"a few yrs (decades) ago i was the metzler tire rep for cycle gear at sears point. "

And this is why your not getting my point. I'm talking about street tires for street bikes, ridden on the street by street riders.
Your stuck in a racer mindset right now :d:d:d

"while things might have changed a bit, the basics are still true. Tires are like bread, better when fresh."
:)
of course a fresh tire should offer better ultimate performance ,if you think your riding hard enough and talented enough to notice,,,,,,,,, then welcome to the .0000001% club. You, valentino rossi and marc marquez should do lunch. :)

if every internet valentino rossi was half as good as he thinks he is this conversation might not be pointless.


Anyone pushing hard enough on the street to notice the small loss in performance of an older properly stored tire ......... Well its a moot point ............. He's going to be dead soon anyway !!!

THIS IS ALMOST AS GOOD AS AN OIL THREAD! :)
 
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What "special coating" is there? You mean the mold release?

A few yrs (decades) ago I was the Metzler tire rep for Cycle Gear at Sears Point. While things might have changed a bit, the basics are still true. Tires are like bread, better when fresh.


I'm not even gonna act like I'm a tire pro, but I've been told that the reason you take it easy on new tires is they have a coating on them to help keep them from degrading until you ride them and wear it off. If that true... well now I don't know

Either way, this has derailed a bit from the OP question.


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I'm not even gonna act like I'm a tire pro, but I've been told that the reason you take it easy on new tires is they have a coating on them to help keep them from degrading until you ride them and wear it off. If that true... well now I don't know

Either way, this has derailed a bit from the OP question.


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The coating you're referring to is commonly called mold release and has become a thing of the past. Apparently it hasn't been used for decades. Most manufacturers state that they don't use a coating of any kind and Continental has outright stated that their tires are good to go straight out of the box and don't require any 'scrub in'.
 
Anyone pushing hard enough on the street to notice the small loss in performance of an older properly stored tire ......... Well its a moot point ............. He's going to be dead soon anyway !!!

Well, I never claimed that this was about ultimate grip. In the context of this thread, Im refering to the op's "handling" issues, i.e., bump absorbtion qualities, and carcass flex in general which are a major quality whether it be street or track. I am convinced that this is the main issue for most, as most of us couldnt/shouldnt be useing the maximum traction available on the street. We agree on that.

"a few yrs (decades) ago i was the metzler tire rep for cycle gear at sears point. "

And this is why your not getting my point. I'm talking about street tires for street bikes, ridden on the street by street riders.
Your stuck in a racer mindset right now :d:d:d

I never said that they were slicks. That is your assumption. In fact, at that time, they were concentrating on DOT's. In the 600 and 750 (remember those?) classes. About as "street" as you can get. Its you who has the "racer mindset" as evidenced by your continueing inncorrect assumptions.

I'm not even gonna act like I'm a tire pro

If thats what you think Im acting like, then you havent read what I stated.
You were wrong about the special coating, but your bustin my balls about my knowledge. All I was doing was qualifying my experience, and in fact stated that it was somewhat dated. I thought that this was a open discussion. Apparently I have insulted you and SG.
Its getting a bit snarky in here. I think I'll step out.
 
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Dunlop:
Thank you for taking the time to contact us with your Dunlop motorcycle tire questions. Dunlop Motorcycle Tire does NOT use a "mold releasing agent" during the production of our tires. When new tires are fitted, they should not be subjected to maximum power, abrupt lean-over or hard cornering until a reasonable run-in distance of approximately 100 miles has been covered. This will permit the rider to become accustomed to the feel of the new tires or tire combination, find the edge, and achieve optimum road grip for a range of speeds, acceleration and handling use.

Be sure to check and adjust inflation pressure to recommended levels after the tire cools for at least three (3) hours following run-in. Remember, new tires will have a very different contact patch and lean-over edge. New tires, mixing a new tire with an used tire, and mixing tread pattern
combinations require careful ride evaluations.

Pirelli:
Hello

Pirelli does not use mold release. Tires are shiny because the general buying public demands that visually a tire look cool, smooth, shiny, and new when they shop for tires in the rack at the dealer. We rely on the smoothness of the mold to get this appearance and to help the tire let go from the mold during production.

I like to say tires are like new shoes, MX boots, or a leather jacket as they need the proper break in time. Regarding getting heat into tires this follows the same idea, only time and friction will put the heat in. I have attached a copy of the brochure so you can read about break in suggestions in the technical area. Ride safe

US Pirelli Moto

Additional quote from Pirelli management:
First off, Knoche quickly dispatched the old wives' tale that the surface of the tire needs to be scuffed or roughed up to offer grip. "Maybe it's coming from the old days when people were spraying mold release on the tread when the molds were maybe not that precise," Knoche speculates, "and the machinery was not that precise. But nowadays molds are typically coated with Teflon or other surface treatments. The release you put in there (in the sidewall area only, not the tread) is for like baking a cake, you know, so that it fills all the little corners and today that is done more mechanically than by spraying. The sidewall is important because you have all the engraving in the sidewall [with tire size, inflation pressure and certifications] and that you want to look nicely on your tire, so that's why we still spray the mold release there."

Michelin's response indicates that they do indeed use an agent although I have never experienced this 'catastrophic grease' when riding away on a brand new Michelin
Thank you for your email. We appreciate the opportunity to serve you.

Concerning your question, Michelin has a mold release agent on all motorcycle tires. This will cause the tire to be slippery in the first few miles, but that goes away after the tire is scrubbed in. This normally occurs in the first 25-50 miles or so. Until then, the rider should use caution in riding the tire at accelerated speeds. Michelin always recommends obeying the speed limits and using care whenever riding.

If your questions have not been answered to your satisfaction, please call

Continental:
TractionSkin provides an extremely safe and short tire break in. This is possible due to the revolutionary raw tread surface, which is the result of a new mold coating technology which eliminates the need for tire-release agents.

Michelin's quoted 25-50 miles is certainly a far cry from the typical internet banter of '200 miles plus before I start to push the tire'. Perhaps they use the release agent on the sidewall as Pirelli claims to do and are just covering their butts
 
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If thats what you think Im acting like, then you havent read what I stated.
You were wrong about the special coating, but your bustin my balls about my knowledge. All I was doing was qualifying my experience, and in fact stated that it was somewhat dated. I thought that this was a open discussion. Apparently I have insulted you and SG.
Its getting a bit snarky in here. I think I'll step out.

Lets make one thing clear... I NEVER mentioned " special coatings " " mold release "or you " acting like a tire pro " Gets a little confusing when your quoting 2 people in the same thread.

This is an open discussion :) I don't feel insulted and I hope I have not made you feel insulted either :noworries:

I'm sure this would be an enjoyable conversation on the side of the road or on a couple bar stools, both of us making good points and enjoying the banter. The internet distance thing makes the tone of a conversation and body language next to impossible to interpret.

Snarky ........... I'll be using the word in the future :smoking: I like it ! :rofl:

Think it just boils down to..... I think a I properly stored tire is fine after 2-3 years and you don't
 
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If thats what you think Im acting like, then you havent read what I stated.
You were wrong about the special coating, but your bustin my balls about my knowledge. All I was doing was qualifying my experience, and in fact stated that it was somewhat dated. I thought that this was a open discussion. Apparently I have insulted you and SG.
Its getting a bit snarky in here. I think I'll step out.

Ummm no, I was saying im not an expert, just what ive heard, which apperantly was WRONG, because IM NOT AN EXPERT.

I never implied you were an expert either. Sounds like your the one with the issue and taking stuff a bit too seriously. It is an open discussion, don't get your panties in a bunch because I replied also.
 
Ok guys, i appreciate all the input. The tires are new…less than 1k in them..Pilot power 2s. I cannot wait for the spring to come and resolve this issue...
 
Hi everyone.
New member here. I appreciate all the advice and suggestions I've get.
My wife surprised me with an 06 Fz1. I can't tell you enough how much i love the bike…i ever ride her in 26 degrees…
Anyway, here is my problem- as soon as getting closer to 100 mph/ hour the bike starts to shake.I went to my local shop and i told them about it but of course they did not take the bike up to that speed..they adjusted the tire pressure - was very low- and for a while i thought it was fixed…although i never went over 100… now I've got the same issue. I know the recommended tp is 38-42 psi…but i was just wondering…what else could be the issue??

Again, thanks very much for the help in advance!!!!

Btw…are any riders from the new york area??


Thanks
Hey man I have the EXACT same problem. Just high frequency buzz above 100mph. As soon as it hits the number it presents itself. Have you figured it out? I am at a loss for a solution. Thanks hope to hear back!
 
Stevo,

A more detailed follow-up to SG's Post #19.

There are several factors which may cause high speed steering head shake. Complicating your case is the fact that you are riding a used GEN II. Did you perform a thorough inspection prior to your first ride? If your tire pressure was low, I believe that several other conditions should be checked. Some of them might not be obvious to a typical dealer's mechanic. They all should have been completed prior to making a run over the ton.

1.) Head & Wheel Bearings - raise the front wheel off the ground (jack and block under headers) and pull forward and upward on the front wheel. Check for side-to-side rotational play in the triple clamp (clamp wheel between legs and try to rotate handlebars). This includes loose bearings as well as clamp tightness. Read the service manual for adjustment. Apply push and pull pressure on the top and bottom of the wheel. Loose/worn wheel bearings must be replaced.

2.) Worn/mis-adjusted/low fluid front shock tubes and/or worn rear shock - check for play with front wheel off ground, inspect tube surface, bounce front end and rear end when on grond (should stop after 2 cycles).

3.) Severely out of balance tires - remove and balance. Check tires for uneven wear and rotational trueness - flat centers. Replace tire(s) if more than 5 years old (arbitrary #). Use rated riding pressure.

4.) Swing arm Bearing - raise the rear wheel off the ground, apply lateral pressure to swing arm. Loose/worn bearings must be replaced. Lubricate.

5.) Rear wheel alignment - Check by sighting or string-line method to front tire with bike in upright position.

6.) Frame alignment - Check front and rear end/tires for parallel alignment with bike in upright position.

7.) Check for ride height change front & rear from stock. Use of R1 forks or adjustment can lower front end. Use of the R1 shock and adapter can raise rear end. Effective change of steering head angle by more than a degree (stock=25, R1=24 degrees) affects high speed stability. Adjust to stock or consider steering dampener (R1 has one stock)

8.) Windscreen - is non-stock or touring windscreen in place. Can affect high speed stability in cross wind.

9.) Fairing misalignment - bent/repaired fairing stay - mirrors out of alignment.

10.) Loading - Are you riding with luggage or a passenger? Low fuel in tank and rider weight to the rear (hunched over)?

11.) Other modifications or repairs - have someone familiar with the GEN II check for obvious changes/modifications. Check for missing spacers (see parts diagrams). Check tightness of all fasteners and chain to spec.

12.) 'Buzzing' at mid to high RPMs may be due to mis-fueling (check for addition of an FCE, Power Commander or ECU flash), worn spark plugs or mis-firing igniters.

The Gen II is a sophisticated machine. Find a service manual and familiarize yourself with the parts, pieces and fastener requirements. Lubricate per specification.

Hope this helps . . .
 
Mine had a severe high speed ( 100 plus ) bounce . Turns out as has been suggested above the wheel weights fell off both the front and back . Balance both tires , bounce is completely gone …Good Luck !
 
Video would be good.

Unless I missed it, no one mentioned sag and more in depth your suspension. My guess if none of the above was the issue is your rear is not stiff enough and very possible since don't remember OP's weight the stock springs are just way to weak. My Triumph Tiger 1050 stock was maxed on preload for my 225 pound fat ass.
The rear squats, the front gets light and the head shakes. Ran my Ninja 600 at Road America 146 mph on the front straight no shake at all, same with Tiger at 130.
 
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