Ivan's Reflash?

ewertkyle said:
I've been following this post for a while and I am really intersted in ivans ecu flash, I have pcv blocked ais, airbox mod, no flies, bmc filter, slip on cat gut, I want to get the flash but that has to wait until winter because my bike is my only ride to work currently. My question to anyone out there with similar mods running jondaddy82 map (or any stage 3 map) and is really happy with results what is your min tps setting? If adjusting mine will make it better I'm all for it. Currently seems to be lean at lower rpms and still pops on heavy decel. My tps is currently .754
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I would use the PCV and shoot for the 0.640 now and try it. It certainly will not hurt. I couldn't believe such a small adjustment could make that much difference.

I have to talk to Ivan or, maybe he'll see this first.... I nailed the .640 setting at 174 degrees, but after the bike is at running temp (Thanks Ivan for the new fan settings!!!) this shows 0.635 so my question is, is this acceptable or should I move to 0.645 so it lands at 0.640 while at running temp?
 
635 is too much...

Make sure that your idle speed is correct and all the temps, fast idle, sync is done first.... lets not make any of this confusing.

My post on the FZ1OA is very clear, please re-read it if you need to. :)

If you want to copy it here, you may, but it must be pinned and locked. :)

I have no idea what JD's TPS settings were when his map was made, so the question cannot be answered properly by me... this is why I make it clear in my post that TPS settings only apply to my maps.


Ivan
 
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FZ1inNH said:
That is correct... I also never gave the TPS setting a thought. I'd tried maps that were great on many bikes but my bike ran like crap. Perhaps setting the TPS should be a first step for anyone installing a Power Commander!?!

I will be toying with the sync later today. We're taking my daughter and granddaughter out to an orchard to pick peaches and some early crop apples. After we're back, it's out to the Busted Knuckle garage for the final touches. I also have to change the oil and filter on both our bikes. Her bike isn't running great so I'll be working on hers next. Thinking of at least Ivan's basic flash for it. She's only got the K&N filter, AIS delete and Two Bros slip-on.

As for the sync, the manual states 225 mmHG (22.5 cmHG on the Morgan CTP) but I see pics on other threads where they are between 26 and 27? The manual only states to "Warm the bike up for several minutes" but no temp. I noticed on the Morgan that at running temp, I'm up in the 26 - 27 range with #3. If memory serves me correct, the initial time I sync'd and tried to achieve 22.5, I ran out of adjustment and nearly backed a screw out of the bike and at the lowest possible setting, my bike ran like crap. 22.5 *must* be a number for a very cold engine. I'll shoot for running temp and balanced at 26-27 on the meter...

BTW, thermo wax was still within spec. No need for any adjustment.

More later folks! Enjoy your weekend to the fullest!
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I have found out that 140F is the sweet spot for the baseline sync and adjust the rest at around that temperature. I had to let the bike cool down a few times to adjust all 4. The baseline takes one cooling cycle and the rest take depending on how quickly you can find the adjustment screws and put the driver in that tight spot. I usually put multiple drivers in position saving me some time but the wiring will invariably nudge them out of their spots.
 
Ivan_IPP said:
635 is too much...

Make sure that your idle speed is correct and all the temps, fast idle, sync is done first.... lets not make any of this confusing.

My post on the FZ1OA is very clear, please re-read it if you need to. :)

If you want to copy it here, you may, but it must be pinned and locked. :)

I have no idea what JD's TPS settings were when his map was made, so the question cannot be answered properly by me... this is why I make it clear in my post that TPS settings only apply to my maps.


Ivan
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Ivan, I did follow the instructions and at 170-ish (174) I was dead-on at 0.640. After the bike reached full running temp of 202 degrees and the fans came on, it was displaying 0.635. After the bike was fully cooled off, it show's 0.640 again at the 170 degree mark. Is this a normal various based on running temps? Or do I have something wrong with my TPS?
 
NM. Got it set and it's at 0.640 across the board.

I may have an issue with the sync though. Although sync'd and appears to be running great, while idling, it shut down on its own after it reached full temp. d61 in diag mode showed a 70 and it's supposed to only show 11-50? d62 showed 1. Unsure what this means... Can't find anything in the manual with a 70 for a code... Going to try a test ride regardless. It does start back up and I'm assuming it will not happen under operation. Just in case, I'm not going far and Michele will be with me with headsets on...

I know this is NOT an issue with the flash or ECU... This is with the sync or TPS. More to come....

According to d62 showing 1, it's a TPS error.
 
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Hellgate said:
^^ That bites. I'm sure you'll figure it out Eric.
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It only is an issue with idle and high temp.... The ride, no problem, no stalling, etc... :D

Ok, first ride.... OH MY $#%$#@^%$@ $@%$#@ ^&$*& $#@#%! %#^ IVAN! What the !^%& did you put in that ECU???

I do NOT know this bike. I don't know what happened to my FZ1... it's gone! I have to learn to ride a new bike!

I cannot begin to explain the differences but this is NOT the OEM FZ1 by a LONG SHOT! Snatch? None! 1st, 2nd and 3rd? 100% linear pull from small throttle opening to WOT. The difference is far from subtle folks. This is really just not the same bike in any way. Acceleration is phenomenal in every aspect, decel isn't as heavy on the engine so rely less on using it for braking. Temps are running 6 - 10 degrees lower, fans come on earlier and stay on to 188, bike runs much cooler.

I now need launch control.... Hold the %#&^ ON when you twist the throttle because it's ZERO to TICKET in first gear and doesn't seem to want to stop pulling.

The single best mod money ever spent on this bike for performance, bar none. Ivan has outdone himself... He's taken a small black box of crap and turned it into pure GOLD.

Can you tell I'm just a little bit excited??? Jeez Ivan.... WOW!!! THANK YOU!!!

Once I sort out the sync/idle, this is the dream bike for me. I loved the FZ1 before but now, it's FunZilla!
 
This thread needs to be closed, ya'll are making me want another FZ1.

I'm daydreaming about a black gen 2 with black R1 front end, Penske shock and the Ivan treatment....

Damn you guys
 
Dustin said:
This thread needs to be closed, ya'll are making me want another FZ1.

I'm daydreaming about a black gen 2 with black R1 front end, Penske shock and the Ivan treatment....

Damn you guys
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Dustin, this is about as close to an R1 as we can get... I wish you were closer to try my bike right now. I think you'd be scouring the classifieds ASAP.

Pete, this coupled with the mods and Ivan's map has made this bike into something I couldn't even imagine it to be. I'm still grinning, still floored.

I had a very long talk with Ivan on the phone a while ago and he was extremely helpful in giving me all sorts of tips and advice on how to sort out this minor issue. You just do not get that kind of support from a company. I really appreciated that call a lot. Thanks Ivan.
 
loosenut said:
No. You still need a fuel controller.
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Taken from the FAQ section of the ECU flashung companies site...

If I have the ECU Tuning Service done do I also need a fuel control module like Power Commander or Bazzaz? No, You do not need a Piggy Back. The service optimizes each of the parameters inside your ECU delivering an excellent overall tune with maximum performance. Because of this your vehicle will not require an additional Fuel Control Module. However some find adding a “piggy back” for specific conditions such as different Track Type, Fuel Type, Atmospheric & Elevation Levels. This should be done ON A DYNO With a professional Tuner.
 
Mattsplat said:
Taken from the FAQ section of the ECU flashung companies site...

If I have the ECU Tuning Service done do I also need a fuel control module like Power Commander or Bazzaz? No, You do not need a Piggy Back. The service optimizes each of the parameters inside your ECU delivering an excellent overall tune with maximum performance. Because of this your vehicle will not require an additional Fuel Control Module. However some find adding a “piggy back” for specific conditions such as different Track Type, Fuel Type, Atmospheric & Elevation Levels. This should be done ON A DYNO With a professional Tuner.
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We're talking about Ivan's Flash, not any other company's flash. Ivan is not doing any fuel tuning in the flash and leaving it open to tuning with the PC. Hence his providing the map for you. Ivan's does a LOT more than the other company's too. And it is cheaper! Keep the PCV and work a deal with Ivan. I PROMISE you'll be extremely impressed with the end result.
 
FZ1inNH said:
We're talking about Ivan's Flash, not any other company's flash. Ivan is not doing any fuel tuning in the flash and leaving it open to tuning with the PC. Hence his providing the map for you. Ivan's does a LOT more than the other company's too. And it is cheaper! Keep the PCV and work a deal with Ivan. I PROMISE you'll be extremely impressed with the end result.
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My dilema is, Im looking for a 'plug n play' solution.

Im not into playing around with my bikes, I prefer to spend my time riding them.
All I want tuning wise is to stop it riding like an asthmatic cow under 7k rpm. I do distance riding so Im not looking for a supertuned bike either.

This is what the ECU company are offering, your opinions please...

Customize your own tune file. Possible ECU modifications:

* Remove factory timing retard
* Remove throttle restrictions
* Increased idle
* Increased rev limiter
* Remove speed limiters (gear dependent)
* Reduce excessive engine braking/improved deceleration
* Improved throttle control & reaction
* Remove injector shut-off on deceleration
* Eliminate factory “error codes” **
(removing the exhaust servo motor * O2 sensors * steering dampers * pair valve AIS system)
* Improved fuel maps
* Improved ignition maps
* Injector phasing adjustment* velocity stack switching adjustment (variable stacks only)
 
The reason that I choose to do the fuel with a piggyback is that it is very easy to make adjustments by anyone if needed.

If anyone has a problem and there is no piggyback, it becomes very difficult for the bike owner to make any changes without either mailing the ecu away or revisiting the ecu tuner... If the ecu is mailed away, the programmer will have to make a guess at how to solve the issue. (I don't like guessing) :)

To each his own, but for me, this makes the most sense for everyone involved.


Ivan
 
With special thanks to Ivan's support, the idle and sync are now spot-on. I wish the service manual told you how to sort this out. Ivan's advice? Done in 20 minutes. She's spot-on.... perfect!

Time to fully enjoy the ride and oh boy will I!

Matt, Ivan's is a plug and play... plug in the ECU, plug in the power commander, load the map, and do the adjustments you would have to do regardless of the flash by setting the TPS, min/max and idle. Done! Ride with the impression you're a helluva lot closer to that R1 than ever before. :tup:
 
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Dustin said:
This thread needs to be closed, ya'll are making me want another FZ1.

I'm daydreaming about a black gen 2 with black R1 front end, Penske shock and the Ivan treatment....

Damn you guys
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GOOD! We are getting even with you for riding more than we do. :jk:
 
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