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Stripped Flies/Sub-throttle screws removal

ballmead

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Apr 10, 2010
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When I first tried to remove my sub-throttle screws to replace my flies, I managed to damage the first screw head.

What follows is how I managed to remove the screw with the stripped head.

Hopefully it will help others who have dramas removing the flies screws.

Firstly you "must" use the correct tools.
I prefer a jewellers phillips screwdriver size 0, as the jewellers screwdriver has a hardened head

A set such as the one below here will do the job nicely:

DSC00455.jpg


Secondly you must heat up the screws with a butane torch or the like.
To make sure you have heated it enough, smoke must come from the screw letting you know you have burned the loctite.

One of the heads was stripped due to me using a low quality screwdriver that broke inside the screw head. I wasn't real happy as you could imagine and a few choice words were exclaimed, let me tell you :)

Today I decided to have a go at removing the damaged screw and here is what I did:

I used a dremel type tool and the dremel cut-off wheel as per below:

DSC00439.jpg


With the dremel I carefully cut a slot into the head of the damaged screw.
I then heated up the screw (making sure smoke came from the burnt loctite) and then used a flatblade screwdriver and, lo and behold, it came out.
Woo Hoo!!

Here is the screw once removed, I was happy as Larry afterwards:

DSC00438.jpg


Next up was the easy job of replacing the flies with some Copperdawg ones I had previously purchased and here is the finished result:
You can view the Copperdawg installation video [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tr0o7cmFKzM&feature=related]HERE[/ame]

DSC00432.jpg

DSC00433.jpg


There is hope if you damage your screw head so give this a try and good luck.
 
Thanks !!

Def a big help to anyone who has done this lol. I would have never thought of dping that. I thought it would have been more difficult !!:thewave:
 
You just have to be careful when using the Dremel. You don't want to cut into the spindle.
I was surprised at how easy it was too.
You have no idea how stoked I was when it gave way :)
 
Good stuff! Thanks!

For those worried about the heat, it is OK to apply a bit too much as opposed to too little and not getting the screw to break free. Key is definitely the quality AND fit of the screwdriver first. When I did mine, I heated the screw for about 5 full seconds, applied the screwdriver, then pressed very hard and if it did not break free, I gave the screw another 2 seconds of heat with the driver in and pressed and attempting to turn. They broke easily this way with no need to twist with excessive force.
 
Good stuff! Thanks!

For those worried about the heat, it is OK to apply a bit too much as opposed to too little and not getting the screw to break free. Key is definitely the quality AND fit of the screwdriver first. When I did mine, I heated the screw for about 5 full seconds, applied the screwdriver, then pressed very hard and if it did not break free, I gave the screw another 2 seconds of heat with the driver in and pressed and attempting to turn. They broke easily this way with no need to twist with excessive force.

7 seconds? I needed at least 30-60 secs to feel confident about not stripping the screw
 
With the right micro-torch, 5 seconds was MORE than enough. 30 - 60 seconds and I would have been pulling out molten metal from the intake.

How ever long it takes to get the loctite to smoke is the correct time.
I was using a small electricians lpg bottle so it took around 15 seconds or so.
 
How ever long it takes to get the loctite to smoke is the correct time.
I was using a small electricians lpg bottle so it took around 15 seconds or so.

The one I have is a Global butane which burns at 2400 degrees. It take about 5 seconds to smoke and bubble the Loctite. :D $20 from Amazon.
 
Are you not worried about the shavings dropping into the intake? :confused0024:

The very minute particles (not shavings) were caught a) by the stock flies and then b) by the throttle flies. I failed to mention I cleaned them out with a magnet and then by hand.
There was bugger all there it's not like I was grinding a weld.
There would be a lot bigger shavings if I had have drilled and then used a screw extractor set instead.
 
OK, I messed one up two!!!

I tried the Dremel trick -whick did not work! :doh2:

I then drilled a very small pilot hole in the top of the screw. About half way down the shaft of the screw

Next I tapped a tiny allen wrench into the pilot hole.

Followed by heat from a Butane torch with the allen key in place & dear sweet Joseph, father of Jesus, it came out!!! I was so happy :Rockon:

and my two young sprogs, Emma and Hannah, got a rather happy daddy as opposed to a moody and sullen one!

I did use an oiled rag in the throttle body to catch any metal and a shop vac.
 
OK, I messed one up two!!!

I tried the Dremel trick -whick did not work! :doh2:

I then drilled a very small pilot hole in the top of the screw. About half way down the shaft of the screw

Next I tapped a tiny allen wrench into the pilot hole.

Followed by heat from a Butane torch with the allen key in place & dear sweet Joseph, father of Jesus, it came out!!! I was so happy :Rockon:

and my two young sprogs, Emma and Hannah, got a rather happy daddy as opposed to a moody and sullen one!

I did use an oiled rag in the throttle body to catch any metal and a shop vac.

Well done, it's so exhilarating when you finally remove that little bugger, isn't it ? :)
 
did you remove the tank?

or did you just prop up the tank? i had a hell of a time doing the air box cover removal when i tried installing my airfilter the other time round.. no prop-stand was avail.. :doh2:
 
did you remove the tank?

or did you just prop up the tank? i had a hell of a time doing the air box cover removal when i tried installing my airfilter the other time round.. no prop-stand was avail.. :doh2:

I use a bungie chord from the tank to the passenger seat area when I need to work under the tank.
 
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