Chain Lube issues

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OntheRoadAgain

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I have had issues with chain lube fling or chain rust (Bel Ray Blue has worked the best form me but it collects a ton of dirt) to point that I have resorted to only wiping a clean dry chain with a WD40 soaked rag. I hate spending two or three hours every few weeks to clean my chain (and the the fling off bike and sometimes my riding gear) only to put the junk back on just to create the same mess! The WD40 is very clean (I use it to clean off the fling) and it keeps the chain from rusting. Does anyone have any experience with this? Does WD40 drastically shorten chain/sprocket life very much?

Thanks
 
Maxima Chain Wax doesn't fling in my experience.
Chainwax_360353.jpg
 
I used to use Maxima... went to PJ1 .... but.. I don't think the type of lube matters as much as how you use it.. read the can... the instructions on most are the same...

Apply to a hot / warm / clean chain.
Allow to sit for 10 minutes.
WIPE OFF EXCESS.


You really only need lube on the O-Rings... the O-rings make the chain a somewhat sealed system... the lube you have to actually worry about is the lube between the o-rings on the rollers of the chain... the O-rings serve to trap the lubrication inside the rollers... the outside of the chain doesn't need lube.. there aren't moving parts on the outside surfaces of the chain... the plates don't need lube... the important lubed parts are contained between the inner and outer o-rings... I can make a quick picture if anyone is confused, but I think most people should be able to understand without much problem....

So... spray down the hot/warm chain... then grab a rag 10 minutes later and wipe off the excess... A thin layer of lube will remain on the plates to keep them from rusting.. and unless you get out a toothbrush, the lube will stay attached to the o-rings.... Your chain doesn't need to be dripping with chain lube.. the o-rings need to remain lubed to keep them from dry-rotting and letting the lube inside of the rollers out.

Use whatever chain lube/wax you want... but follow the instructions on the can... below is my personal method.

Here's what I do:
#1 Go for a ride... just a few miles to get the chain warm and moving freely.
#2 Clean the chain.
I spray the chain down with WD-40 (Kerosene is the preferred method outlined by most chain manufacturers and the owner's manual.)
After the WD sits for a few minutes, I take a stiff nylon brush and clean the links to remove grit from the O-Rings and the surface rust from the plates (My bike lives outside)
#3 Grab a rag and clean off the excess cleaning solution...
#4 After the chain is shiny and clean, spray on the chain lube...
#5 While the lube is sinking in to the O-Rings, this is a good time to adjust the chain. If you read the manual, the chain is supposed to be adjusted while warm... *Most* Chains will have a tight spot somewhere... turn the chain to find the tight spot, and adjust thhe chain within spec at the tight spot.
#6 After chain is adjusted to spec, grab another clean rag and wipe off the excess chain lube. The entire chain need not be covered in copious amounts of lube... wipe down the outward facing plates, then wipe the inward facing plates... then run the rag down the center of the rollers... Basically, you're just leaving the thick layer of lube on the O-Rings...


Following the above method will result in less fling, regardless of what lube you use, and with less lube all over the chain where not needed, the chain will attract less dirt particles, and will last longer.
 
+1 on using WD-40 to clean. I have a [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NONS5M"]Grunge Brush[/ame] to scrub with. It really gets all the nooks and cranny's you canot get with a rag. The cleaner that comes with the Grunge Brush is very good also but I stick with WD-40 after I ran out.

I am using Motul chain lube and love it.

Here are my additional tips.

1.) Bend the tip of your WD-40 and Lube tubes down. This will help control over spray and keep it from getting on the rest of the bike.

2.) Control the flow of lube while applying by not depressing all the way. You do not want it fully depressed as it is to hard to control application.

3.) Roll the rear wheel as you apply the lube (controlled as mentioned above) first on the inside of the chain, then middle then outside.

4.) continue rolling the wheen for a minute or two to let everything spread in to all the nooks an crannys of the chain. ...and for lubes like motul evenly spread as it thickens up.

If you control the flow of the lube as you apply it and roll the wheel for a while for it to all even out you should not need to wipe and you should also not have eccess flying off when you twist your wrist. BTW - the pic of my chain below is after lube is applied with no wiping at all.
 
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