Fender Eliminator Installation ?

Two Wheels

Well-Known Member
Bought a nice simple kit, but, no instructions. Is taking off our rear fender a simply mechanics 101 can do it task ? I;ll search around and take the seats off etc this weekend, but thought I would ask if this is a bolt off/bolt on job.

Seriously, I've never worked on bikes but I've started to and its fun but if this is entailed, Im wondering if I should take to shop ... which I really dont like to do.

Thoughts please ?
 
I have never installed one as mine was already on there when I bought the bike. However, I have worked on cars and bikes for years so I wouldn't feel intimidated by the job. From looking at it I do believe that's it's pretty simple. Remove the rear seat so that you can get access to the turn signal wires, which will probably be the hardest part of the install. I am sure if you take your time you'll be able to install it. Good luck...
 
Are the turn signals pull out, plug new ones that came with kit in ? I agree, looks like the rear fender is just bolt off, and the turn signals are such that they need to be plugged in. No wire splicing ...
 
They do have plugs and sockets but they are buried under a lot of stuff on the Gen II bikes. It's a lot easier if you cut them, leaving as much wire as you can then splice them in under the seat, installing new connectors if you want. There's really only four bolts that hold the old fender in place. It's pretty hard to mess up the two turn signals and the license plate wire. You will need a new license plate light if one didn't come with your eliminator
 
You need to remove the rear seat and the bolts are under there. The cap nuts you see under the tail are welded to the stock fender bracket.

Under the rear seat, you can see where the wiring goes but I've yet to delve further into it than this. I tore it down a bit to make my mock up for an FE Kit I am designing for my bike. I have a CNC shop here that is going to laser cut, bend and tig weld it for me. :D If it works out well, I might have a bunch made up and sell them for a small profit. I know... shameless plug... :)

Is it OK to link to a Howto at the other site here? I have to visit the rules again....

*EDIT* Ok... did not see anything so here it is: http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=85826&highlight=fender+removal Someone let me know if I'm in the wrong here please. Thanx!
 
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You need to remove the rear seat and the bolts are under there. The cap nuts you see under the tail are welded to the stock fender bracket.

Under the rear seat, you can see where the wiring goes but I've yet to delve further into it than this. I tore it down a bit to make my mock up for an FE Kit I am designing for my bike. I have a CNC shop here that is going to laser cut, bend and tig weld it for me. :D If it works out well, I might have a bunch made up and sell them for a small profit. I know... shameless plug... :)

Is it OK to link to a Howto at the other site here? I have to visit the rules again....

*EDIT* Ok... did not see anything so here it is: FZ1 Gen 2 Tail Cover Removal - FZ1OA Message Board Someone let me know if I'm in the wrong here please. Thanx!

I used that same thread from FZ1oa mine. I did not want to splice anything. I wanted everything to remain very clean inside and out. Removing the entire rear cowl takes about 10 minutes tops but it is totally worth it. It gives you much more access to the cabling both to unplug them and to re-route the slight excess you will have when done.

Tip they do not mention there: Once you get all the screws and bolts holding thr rear cowl on it does not pull straight back. Trick is to pull it back just a few inches and the lift the rear up and over the frame. Then slide the front bit back forward and the front section of the cowl moves farther forward than it's mounting position and comes right up and off. Easy! No scratching no forcing. I was trying to force it straight back at first.
 
I want the Copperdog FE kit. That will also require a plate light mod as his does not account for it. I have some LEDs that I can line up and make a small light bar out of then aim it as the plate. The lights themselves woul be nearly invisible back there where I want to fab them in. The other thing about the Copperdog is, no place to mount the signals. Of course, ideally, one would order his pod extension signals with the FE kit, eh? :D
 
I just got done installing the Evotech Tail Tidy and just removed the seats and a couple of the electrical components where the wires for the right turn signal and license plate light were hidden behind. The hardest part of the install was getting the license plate light to work. On the Evotech Tail Tidy the light wires are very fragile and can pull away from the light and make it unreliable. I did not splice any wires and just reused my stock turn signals which fit well on the Tail Tidy. I recommend the license plate adapters if you do not want to drill holes in your license plate.
 
I have the Grave Fender Eliminator, it is a quality unit, I fished out and rethreaded the turn signal wires, not easy but you just need to be patient. the stock turn signals look a little out of place but they are pulled way in out of your way, Graves makes LED turn signals that fit the bracket but they are expensive and from what I can tell my state's license (Ohio) plate would block them. With the stock turn signals the License plate bolts needed inserted backwards and I installed acorn nuts on them from the front of the plate. Also I did not install a license plate light.
 
I hacked up a chunk of aluminum plate and sanded it down. Painted it black and bolted it on with a motodynamics integrated tail light. I had to flip it out to the rear of the bike so it didn't rub tho so its not quite like the pic. You can't see any of the aluminum anymore.
IMAG0226.jpg

IMAG0227.jpg
 
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