MOAB (Mother Of All Biketrips) Utah

Day 11 - Movie stars, you’re not in Kansas anymore, pulling off Pucker

Our last day in Moab and we had a fairly easy list. Shafer road past Potash was first on it. After more fine coffee and food at the Muffin we were off! We did another quick run across 279 past Potash and onto the gravel of Shafer. We started seeing Sony Pictures trucks almost immediately as we rode past the (weird blue) drying ponds. They were crawling across the rocky steps and through the fine powdery silt that makes up most of the road. I stopped to spark up the Go Pro just in case anything interesting happened. I was following the road (and gps) when I came upon a large cluster of movie crew vehicles and wasn’t really sure how to get past. One of the crew guys came over and we started talking. He was interested in my Leatte armor and told me he had a neck brace and Thor armor. We discussed the road and he related “Mr. Smith and the Director came in the road once” “now they fly around in the chopper”. I had spotted that from across the valley the day before. A security guard came over, looking up at my Go Pro and asked, “Is that on?” I ignored the question, and slowly motion no with my head. He had other things to attend to and walked away. The guy I was talking to (after he was gone) asked if “I was running” I told him yes and he looked up at the camera and waved and said Hi. We chatted and joked for a bit longer and then as one of the “players” in Sci-Fi spandex was waiting to get into the shuttle van we carried on.

We were following a few very slow set vehicles along the road and Chris and I finally cautiously passed. The road had been recently “improved” so the big vehicles for the movie could actually make it to one of the cliff-side shoot locations. This entailed adding loose gravel to fill in some of the worse “steps” Chris ran wide on an uphill corner and just over a berm of this loose gravel. I made the mistake of stopping on the hill to make sure he was OK (he was fine and got going on his own). When he got himself going I let out the clutch and dug a hole right where I was stopped (this had become all too common a theme). I hopped off the bike and gently rocked it back and forth using the clutch and was almost out of the hole when the bike started to feel like it was going over. I pulled in the brake and clutch and did my best to wrestle the bike straight up. Out of the corner of my eye I caught movement and turned my head., still fighting the bike. The reason for the bike’s sudden temperament became clear. A movie crew guy was holding the back of the bike and trying to “help”. When I realized this I felt better, and silly at the same time. He said he would push so I mounted up and tried to not spray him with gravel. I waved as I rode off and hoped that he wasn’t hurting considering that he was in shorts and a t-shirt.

We stopped just past the shoot site far enough away (I hoped) that the security that we passed would not see us. I pulled out the big lens to get some shots before we carried on. This was as close to Hollywood as I had ever got and it was a bit of a thrill.

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The trail was very scenic and easy after this point but it was again getting scorching hot., I can’t imagine doing this in July or August.

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Near where the road meets up with White rim Trail (at the bottom of Shafer Switchbacks) it gets a lot rockier and has a few washes to go through, but still easy for us. In this stretch I came up behind a Chevy Traverse that was crawling along on the rocks. Chris rode past and stopped with Paul right behind me. I stopped just behind the Traverse and was belly laughing at the Kansas plate on the back. The window rolled down and an arm (and head) stuck out motioning me over to him. I rolled up with a huge grin and said “ You’re not in Kansas anymore!” The joke was lost on the young guy. The older couple with him (parents?) didn’t look happy. He asked if I thought he could make it and I said I honestly didn’t know, as I wasn’t familiar with the last bit of this road. I told him my GPS showed that he only had about ¾ of a mile to the junction and that if he made it to turn right! I told him if he turned left he probably wouldn’t make that trail.

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When we got to the junction we waited for about 10 minutes to see if he would get through but there was no sign of him. I told the guys that when I got to the top of Shafer I was going over to let the Rangers know about them just in case. It was too hot to be stranded out there for any length of time. After climbing the switchbacks again (It seemed steeper the second time, funny how the mind works) I zipped over to the Canyon Lands gate and talked to the Ranger who thanked me.

From there we headed over to Long Canyon road just around the corner of 313 toward Dead Horse Point. A short straight section of Gravel took us to an amazing viewpoint and then around the corner onto a very steep but short downhill to where Chris had made it to on the previous day. Going down “Pucker Pass” was easy, unlike trying to get up. Back through Long Canyon we went, stopping at the highway (279) to congratulate ourselves and give Long Canyon the ADV salute.

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We headed down the highway and into Arches. Our passes from day one were still good, so in we went. We headed straight to Windows Arch turnoff (as we had seen everything else already). We came to ride, and it was another scorcher but we were feeling good and somewhat used to the heat by now, so we did a little hiking. Along the way I lent my wide angle to another tourist and took another couples picture with their camera. I guess, body armor aside, I looked the part of a Cameraman.

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Ok but you won't like it.....

We had done everything we really wanted and decided to relax and cool off before hitting the town for dinner. Paul still wanted to buy a souvenir or two so we went back to Zak’s again and had some more excellent food, before wandering along the main drag (and all the tourist shops). Tomorrow would see us break camp for the first time in a week and leave Moab behind.


[video=youtube;xMx1k5DNiYs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMx1k5DNiYs[/video]
 
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Hurrah Pass Video

This Video is rated PG-13 by the film board of Utah, for freightening scenes and adult situations. Language at the end was edited to maintain a work safe video and maintain the PG-13 rating.:embarrased:


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[video=youtube;DLrW_Z11lVc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLrW_Z11lVc[/video]

For full effect be sure to watch in full HD.
 
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Day 12 – You’re late! The long run to Jackson Hole

After packing up at Moab Valley RV Resort we went into town fully loaded up and managed to park in front of the Muffin.

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The Lady at the counter smiled and said, “You’re late!” Compared to normal, we were, and explained why. The food, service and atmosphere were as always great and I can’t imagine even looking for another place for breakfast in Moab the next time. Sadly though, “All good things must come to an end.” Today, for us, was our time in Moab come to an end. The three of us had separate missions to accomplish now and we would be running together for one last day. The most efficient way to get north that I could see was going to be Hwy.191all the way past

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Flaming Gorge Park and then onto Jackson Wyoming. We wanted to hit Yellowstone National Park before our paths diverged. It was an ambitious undertaking and would be a long day of mostly boring highway miles. Flaming Gorge is a really nice spot and had some interesting switchbacks coming down the hill. I was perhaps having a little too much fun just before crossing the state line into Wyoming from Utah when a state trooper flipped on his lights just ahead of me. I slowed and he turned them off and carried on, phew! We hit I-80 at Green River, WY and jumped off at Rock Springs, back on 191 north. That stretch was very long, and dull, but improved past Boulder, WY. It actually got fairly cold running through Hoback Canyon and we had been (unnecessarily) been warned to watch for “critters”, as this was an ingrained habit for me.


We had also been warned that it would get cold at night (28 degrees the night before) so we voted for a hotel when we got to Jackson. After a few false starts, looking for a hotel / motel (Pulling in front of the Best Western Jackson Hole and Chris saying; “I hope you have your Gold Card”) and finding No Vacancy signs on a couple of others, we ended up in front of The Virginian of Jackson Hole. Sam and Dean Winchester would have been proud (if you understand that reference) and it was like going back in time. The price was acceptable and there was a restaurant and bar and the whole enchilada. The severed heads in the lobby and the oversized (button tufted) leather chairs added to the 60’s hunting lodge feel. The outside of the building did nothing to take away from that, nor the wood paneling in the room. The room had 3 Queen size beds and a mini fridge and microwave, explaining the mini-suite designation. It was very clean though and that was all that really mattered.

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We would miss the restaurant at the Lodge but had been told of a nice place a block down and across the street that was open late. We cleaned up and wandered over in the failing light of day. The place was very interesting and decorated in an aeronautical theme with large-scale planes from various eras hanging from the ceiling. The speakers boomed out the TV programs at a somewhat obnoxious level, but aside from that it was good. I even managed to get a Hockey update on the Kings, Devils series. The food was nothing to write home about, but OK. The beer was good after a long day in the saddle. Sleep came quick when we returned to our mini-suite. The bikes would be covered in frost the next morning proving our choice of hotel vs. campground a good one.

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More to come...
 
Day 13- All Good things

The following morning we packed up and walked over for breakfast at the hotels restaurant before heading north in the chill morning air. I had re-installed all of my cold weather liners in my Revit suit and was glad of that. The ride through the quaint, touristy north end of Jackson Hole was another trip into a by-gone era, and I loved the (most likely) carefully planned look of it. It reminded me of Banff on a much more intimate scale. Not far north we stopped for a few quick (helmet on) pictures of the Grande Tetons, but it is hard to impress people that live beside the Canadian Rockies, as Chris pointed out.

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The run to Yellowstone gate was picturesque as expected and at our first stop for gas, and souvenirs I bid my fellow adventurers goodbye. We wished each other safe travels and I was gone. I wanted to give them a chance to actually see the park, which I did not have time to do. I had 2 days to cover the better part of 4 states and part of one province, including today. I had to get after it. The remainder of the trip through Yellowstone was for me an exercise in traffic frustration and for the time spent, a total set back in miles.

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I stopped to take 4 pictures the whole breadth of the park and had to suffice with what my eyes and brain could process as I moved (there would be another time and trip). I exited through the Northeast gate and along highway 212 into Montana. A brief stop for food and fuel in Cooke City MT, and I was across Bear Tooth Pass. If I had to pick one pavement highlight from the trip, that would be it, without question! Anyone who knows that pass understands, and if you don’t, get to know it.

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After that the story just becomes about making miles across Interstate highways and is uninteresting at best. I managed to go from Jackson Hole Wyoming to Dickinson, North Dakota that day, a distance of over 980 km.

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The following day saw me reach Winnipeg, Manitoba and my parents place. I spent the rest of that with family remembering a sister/ a daughter/ a mother gone far too soon from us. The next couple of days and the trip home were somber and personal.

I’m a long way from home, but I know just where I belong. It’s a long way I’m going, but my heart will still carry me on. Asia; Long Way From Home

When I read ride reports, I find the best ones are ones that explore the human side as well as the geographical. They are the ones that I remember. That in a way is what this report is about, remembering. I was very excited about the trip to Moab and spending time with friends. The trip sadly will always have darker memories associated with it now.

Like a new place, so to with people, we never really get to know them completely. We see what we want, or what they allow us to, see. We remember them both how we want to, and I choose to remember both my sister and Moab very, very fondly, and always will.

Lee Kroeker.
 
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Epic and bitter-sweet journey

First Lee, I am very sorry for the loss of your sister. You have my deepest condolences, thoughts and prayers.

As for the trip? Thank you for sharing and putting your personal feelings out there so we could live not only through the pictures and videos but through the emotions of a trip so grand and so sad at the same time. I waited until the end to post, wanting to savor every moment to the end.

Well done and much appreciated! :tup:
 
Thanks

First Lee, I am very sorry for the loss of your sister. You have my deepest condolences, thoughts and prayers.

As for the trip? Thank you for sharing and putting your personal feelings out there so we could live not only through the pictures and videos but through the emotions of a trip so grand and so sad at the same time. I waited until the end to post, wanting to savor every moment to the end.

Well done and much appreciated! :tup:

Thank you very much Eric.

This is not really the end yet, as there is about 10 videos to process, but the narative is done.
 
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http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/LeeOldschool/Moab Trip 2012/MorninginDickinsonND.jpg

I thought no way an LC8 loaded up is doing 137 MPH then I remembered your from Canuckistan, home of the Km/h thing.

How did you keep the v twin cool? What does the Adventure have, 1 big fan or 2 small ones? I know my SMT gets warm real fast, must have been a bit toasty to ride in the slow stuff.

A great report Lee, thank you.

Firstly, Kph, kilometers per hour, I'm not that crazy to do 137 MPH on a public road.

The Adventure had a single stock 5" fan , but I added a second 4" fan before the trip. It kept the big 990 nicely cool (except the fuel) even in the slowest, hottest conditions. Adventure Machines sells a kit.

Also as I process videos I will put up the links. I processed a scary one from Shafer Switchbacks last night but did not have time to upload it yet. I did do this one from the hottest day when we were at "Chicken Corner". A little behind the scenes of the photo shoot.

[video=youtube;XNlv1HO6kvg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNlv1HO6kvg[/video]
 
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New Video

WARNING: Scared of Heights, Don't Watch
This was a Video that I shot coming off White Rim Trail in Canyon Lands National Park. In the photo (taken from a Go Pro video) you can see a small black dot on the road near the middle of the frame. That is Chris on the Yellow DR that I passed in the video.

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[video=youtube;ty9m909Nzjk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ty9m909Nzjk[/video]

Again, be sure to watch in full HD if you have a decent connection.
 
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WARNING: Scared of Heights, Don't Watch
This was a Video that I shot coming off White Rim Trail in Canyon Lands National Park. In the photo (taken from a Go Pro video) you can see a small black dot on the road near the middle of the frame. That is Chris on the Yellow DR that I passed in the video.

ChrisandIonShaferswitchbacks.jpg




Shafer Switchbacks June 2012 - YouTube

Again, be sure to watch in full HD if you have a decent connection.

Pure awesomeness!

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2
 
Once in a while I remember to relax, and this was when I decided to fire up the I have always had a hard time showing what I am feeling. Letting people in is not my strong suit, so this is rarity, me baring my soul. Maybe that is Deborah’s legacy to me. We were not as close as maybe we should have been, but I miss you dearly. May your soul be soaring free.

Lee, you may have a hard time showing what you feel, but you convey them so well thru your keyboard.
I think we have all felt a sense of excitement thru your pictures and videos and then deep sorrow for your sister simply because of the way you have written it. Thank you so much for sharing it all with us....your other family :)
Again, my deepest sympathies go out to you & your family.
 
White Rim Trail just after Hardscrabble Hill

This was shot just after an hour and a half of hard work and two crashes on Hardscrabble Hill. Digging trenches, falling over, and choking on fine powdery silt churned up from the bikes. Going down the hill would have been easy, up...not so much.

I was experimenting here in this Video, trying to see if the Go Pro would pick up me talking (in the helmet) while riding at low speed. I sound funny to me, but maybe that is how I sound? If you turn up your speakers you will hear my commentary on this stretch.

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[video=youtube;lL--0jYbFuc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL--0jYbFuc[/video]

[video=youtube;NeJsMTY-0hA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeJsMTY-0hA[/video]

[video=youtube;WIPtgox24Lk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIPtgox24Lk[/video]

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White Rim Trail - Wild Sand Hogs Video

Uploading now, a video of someone else crashing, in the sand, on White Rim trail.

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Paul picks up his KLR 650 before I have a chance to get stopped and help.

[video=youtube;Oei2TY2sEVc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oei2TY2sEVc[/video]
 
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Caught in the Camera Eye

The trip through Chris, the DR pilots eye (and Camera). Apparently I like to goof around on the other side of the lens. I also did ride during the trip.

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To steal a movie line,"I just wanted to feel the power between my legs!"

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My "Blue Steel" look.

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Long Canyon - the whole thing.

[video=youtube;Vl7jMy7GOTA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vl7jMy7GOTA[/video]

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Some motivation for Hail and Lytehouse.
 
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