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Radiator fluid change

PapaGeno21

PapaGeno21

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So I bought myself some Engine Ice. I got two of the little jugs of it.

Here is basically my question.

I understand to disconnect the left bottom hose and let it all drain, then fill with distilled water, run drain again.

However here is where I am confused. Isnt there an overflow tank somewhere, and if so how do I get the normal anti-freeze out of that as well?

Thanks!
 
Don't forget to flush the system entirely. Somewhere here is a thread on this already that explains the use of the distilled water and white vinegar mix. Since Engine Ice is a different technology, it doesn't mix with what is in the bike stock.
 
Okay, now I'm worried. I never flushed my system with distilled anything. I just emptied the entire system and poured in the Engine Ice. I have it in there since February and haven't had an issue.........I hope! : oops:
 
They say to use distilled water because of no electrolytes in the water. electrolytes allow current to travel through water and causes faster corrosion of cooling system.
 
Yeah it shows the mix and whatnot, my main concern is the overflow. Even if I empty it with a turkey baster, will it get all the green stuff out of the lines etc?
 
Is there some reason you don't want to use the drain bolt? Plus I rinsed mine twice, ran the distilled water and vinegar two times and drained just to be sure!
 
Drain bolt is flimsy and removing the hose is easier.

I just removed the reservoir and emptied it, it was easier than siphoning out. I did siphon out the leftover fluid from the bottom pipe.

  1. Cold Engine
  2. Remove left hose from bottom pipe and drain radiator
  3. Siphon out of the bottom pipe
  4. Empty the reservoir
  5. Put back the pipe and reservoir
  6. Top off the radiator with 50/50 distilled water vinegar mix
  7. Let it run till 170+
  8. Cool down
  9. Drain again
  10. Pass distilled water through radiator to flush out any vinegar
  11. Put back the pipe
  12. Top off the radiator with new coolant (engine ice) and fill the reservior till full mark
  13. Let it run till 170+ to check everything
 
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My drain bolt came off fine just before I was ready to put the coolant back in. The head broke off of the bolt after I had finger tightened the bolt into the hole and just gave the bolt a small turn with a socket. I had visions of having to get the bike towed somewhere because all of the coolant had been drained. I was able to get the rest of the bolt out of the hole and I found a replacement bolt at AutoZone.
 
cos_fz1 said:
My drain bolt came off fine just before I was ready to put the coolant back in. The head broke off of the bolt after I had finger tightened the bolt into the hole and just gave the bolt a small turn with a socket. I had visions of having to get the bike towed somewhere because all of the coolant had been drained. I was able to get the rest of the bolt out of the hole and I found a replacement bolt at AutoZone.
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Can you tell me what size bolt you found at AutoZone? Mine just broke off when replacing it. Thank you!
 
c0p0ut said:
Can you tell me what size bolt you found at AutoZone? Mine just broke off when replacing it. Thank you!
Click to expand...
You probably already figured it out, but according to Google the coolant drain plug is an M12 x 1.5 bolt. The torque specification for this bolt is 5.1 ft-lb (7 Nm).
 
CobaltFZ1 said:
You probably already figured it out, but according to Google the coolant drain plug is an M12 x 1.5 bolt. The torque specification for this bolt is 5.1 ft-lb (7 Nm).
Click to expand...
Thank you for that information! If I went with anything other than an OEM bolt, and I have been reading conflicting statements, any idea what the metal properties should be? I would like to just go to a hardware store and get an immediate replacement without waiting for OEM to arrive.
 
c0p0ut said:
Thank you for that information! If I went with anything other than an OEM bolt, and I have been reading conflicting statements, any idea what the metal properties should be? I would like to just go to a hardware store and get an immediate replacement without waiting for OEM to arrive.
Click to expand...
I would get one made out of steel.;)
 
c0p0ut said:
Thank you for that information! If I went with anything other than an OEM bolt, and I have been reading conflicting statements, any idea what the metal properties should be? I would like to just go to a hardware store and get an immediate replacement without waiting for OEM to arrive.
Click to expand...
No clue on that one. I don't know if a regular steel bold from a hardware store would cause problems or not.
 
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